State of the art engine control, late 1953

Originally Posted by RyanNX211

I heard that the rights to the Forster .99 were bought after the war by the Japanese company that became Honda. They used an enlarged version as a generator.

Originally Posted by Twin-Stack

That may not be correct - my understanding is that Randy Linsalato (RJL) owns the rights to that engine, and indeed produces new build Forster 99's from the original dies. BOB

The Japaneses may well have done what Ryan says....except for that 'buying' thing........so you may both be right...


.

Danny, from Radio Modeller March 1966

Not 'NIB' anymore (like myself)...but two early (Duromatic) McCoy ´stunt´engines.
.19 and .29
Nice honest work horses with twin ringed baffled pistons.

Rumours says that the later McCoys weren't that good, although I haven't compared this myself..

Originally Posted by Twin-Stack

Danny, from Radio Modeller March 1966

Thanks Bob !

I really like all the info and articles i can get about the 'Lee' engines, thanks!
Always like to read additional information and history about engines we collect, and others to.
That's also an important part of the fun in collecting engines, beside making new friends.
You have great information about engines, let's keep it coming!
I like Your Enya .63 Typhoon!

regards,
Danny.

Originally Posted by danny.act

I like Your Enya .63 Typhoon!

!
Very stylish...!


Also, the speed-control sheets are lovely...in these days of electronics, we need this less abstract technology to rest our eyes and brains on.....
I find it inspiring...not in the sense of bringing mankind further, but to enhance the quality of life...

Originally Posted by Gluehand

Not 'NIB' anymore (like myself)...but two early (Duromatic) McCoy ´stunt´engines.

Hi Gluehand,

So You'r not NIB anymore, but Your Duromatic system does it still works??

regards,
Danny (also not NIB anymore)

Kalt FC-1

I know don't tell me.......

Bill

OK guys, what we need here is for all you collectors out there to start pooling their accumulated knowledge - all those little helpful tips which we have gathered over the years, in tinkering with model engines. To kick off, here's some stuff I use - the ONLY screwdriver which touches my precious ENYA's is the one shown, a Fuller. With the #2 bit fitted, this is the only screwdriver I have found that can loosen & tighten ENYA screws without marking them in any way. Note though, how the "ears" are carefully ground off near the point, otherwise they will "catch" or foul some head fins (ie. bend them). The other gadget shown with the driver is just a faster way to install / remove glow plugs. The engine with a lump of wood sticking out the back is how I remove most screw-in type backplates. Just select a piece of an old broom handle or whatever, and carefully grind it down (with a taper) until the end will just fit in the backplate - tap it all the way in, and clamp the wood in a vise. Other photo's show a selection of different size (1/4 in. drive) sockets, mainly used for removing needle valve assemblies. With my little 4" adjustable wrench on the other end, it makes the job easy ! Obviously though, all these sockets have to be ground down carefully - I just do 'em by hand. Hands up all those guys who used to use long nose pliers to remove NVA's ! BOB
PS note how I cunningly removed the compression adjuster from the AMCO to give the impression of it being a glow !

Originally Posted by Twin-Stack

Anybody got any idea what this is - http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-T-GLOW-PLUG-...item1c1a23b9a1
Probably a home made job, but as I know the seller has sold off quite a few Aussie Taipans (some of which have a "T" on them), could this be a rare one- off by Gordon Burford ? BOB

And the spark ignition version - http://cgi.ebay.com/OBSCURE-T-IGNITI...item1c1a3a631a

Here is my basic gasket making kit. The most important item is the nylon, kitchen chopping board ! This is because the point of the circle cutter will gradually dig deeper and wider into a wooden surface, with the end result you have an out of round circle. The nail scissors have curved blades for cutting complex shapes, and I only use the pen re-fill so as to mark more accurate bolt holes, and the outside shape of the engine part. The circle cutter can be purchased for $12 - $15 at any craft or sewing shop, and if using the nylon board, the cutter can be held stationary (or only moved 75 degrees or so of wrist movement), whilst the board & work are rotated.
A couple of more tips - sometimes (if you're a perfectionist like me) its takes a while before you find the exact setting on the circle cutter. So rather than waste the actual gasket material, make practice cuts on thin paper until you get the perfectly sized circle for your backplate or whatever. If the outside perimeter line of your gasket is a complex shape (ie. not perfectly round), you will find it easier to cut out accurately with the curved scissors if you first go round the shape making a cut about 1mm outside the traced shape. Also, as the traced shape will be slightly larger than the actual backplate, the final cut should be made just inside the line. BOB

Have you ever wanted to remove the front housing from an ENYA or a bolt-on backplate from another engine - without wrecking the gasket, that is ? Here's the way to do it - slacken off all the retaining bolts about a millimeter, but do not remove them completely. Pour a small amount of acetone into a nylon container, and using a brush or old toothbrush, paint around the gasket with the fluid. Most gaskets will come away from one of the surfaces in 5 minutes or less, and by leaving the bolts in whilst you do this, you won't damage the gasket if the surfaces suddenly come apart whilst a portion of the gasket is still stuck. If the two surfaces are stubborn and remain stuck together after several minutes of soaking in acetone, try this. Immerse the whole engine (with the glow plug removed) in a container filled with acetone, making sure that the withholding bolts are still as in the photo below. If you have bolted on a nylon propeller stub, you can "rock" the crankshaft back and forth with the crankcase filled with liquid. As you twist the shaft to the right, the piston coming down will compress the fluid in the case and the pressure should "pop" the backplate off. BOB

For our European friends - February 1966

June 1966