Does anyone know if this mod will work with the other ESCs in the blue series, like the 40A and the 20A?

I've tried like 6 different motors with the 30A esc and modified firmware and none of them properly startup. I have no idea what I did wrong. Is the esc expected to be running at 8 or 16mhz under new firmware?

The manual writes : "This ESC has a built-in over temperature cutoff protection feature that will immediately cut power to the motor once the ESC temperature exceeds the 230 Deg F/110 Deg C high temperature limit."

Where is the thermistor?

The SiLabs ups have a built in temperature sensing facility, the ones with ADCs anyway.

Hi

I've drawn the circuit out and piccies of the Black Mantis 20Amp ESC I have and would like to try your firmware with it - but using PWM input and not I2C.

I've read that the Black Mantis, HK BlueSeries and HK Mystery ESC's are suppose to be the same ESC but have a different label on them, but not so sure myself due to the Black Mantis having all N-Channel FET's and the BlueSeries have the usual N/P channel FET's.

So I've attached the schematic and piccies here for those that are interested.

It differs slightly from the HK BlueSeries/Mystery ESC's it seems because it uses all N-Channel FET's so the upper FET's turn-on level is the opposite of normal.

Ignore the 2 blown FET's, that was due to allowing two of the motor wires to short while testing, they have already been replaced.

The HK 30A Blue Series and the Mystery 30A Blue Series are the same product, right?

HobbyKing 30A Blue Series
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=13429

Mystery 30A Blue Series
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9483

Yes

Originally Posted by Pip1996

Ignore the 2 blown FET's, that was due to allowing two of the motor wires to short while testing, they have already been replaced.

Hi, Pip1996!

Which parts did you use to replace the fets?

I've blown FETs on three Turnigy Plush 18A ESCs now, with my hacked quax code with all throttle delays removed. (Two in crashes, one immediately after I went through a puddle.) Incidentally, the board for Turnigy Plush 18A ESCs seems that it's just the 25A board with two columns of FETs missing, leaving just two columns of P-channel FETs and one column of N-channel FETs.

For the P-channels, they seem to be using AO4407B. I could only find AO4407A, which seems to be 30V, 12A, 3.1W, logic level gate (though it's feeding it full input voltage). N-channels seem to be "4166", which as best I can find is about twice the current rating. Any recommendations for these parts? There's enough space on the board that I guess I could just use two columns of each of the cheaper lower-current ones, like AO4406A and AO4407A.

Cheers!

I have a faulty turnigy plush 25A so it became the FET doner.

But DigiKey seem to have a range of suitable FETs anyway.

Originally Posted by Pip1996

I have a faulty turnigy plush 25A so it became the FET doner.

But DigiKey seem to have a range of suitable FETs anyway.

Yeah, I'll just grab some from DigiKey. Did you do the swap with hot air or wick or some other nifty trick? Btw, I was wrong re the logic levels (since I was measuring a blown one) -- it does actually use logic level at the gate. I wonder how well the AVR survives that.

Cheers

A soldering iron, solder wick, flux and isopro (for cleaning).

This is the HK Mystery 20Amp.

VERY similar to the Black Mantis (show is previous post), just the top FETS are a different type (P type instead of N type). Identical to the HK BlueSeries I guess.

Lots of tiny solder blobs on the Mystery ESC's just waiting to dislodge and do their buisness it seems, so remove the ESC heat shrink and give the board a good clean. I found a very large solder blob on the FET side of the board that just fell off when I touched it - not very good quality control but no matter.