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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:32 PM
Pilot Francis 😄
RCPilot1234's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Brighton
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirty View Post
Mate, thats awesome, much appreciated. (and not just the flying! ) Once I maiden it n get a feel for it I'll make a few upgrades I think, (no point trashing good gear straight up hey?), but I had emailed rob at adc already about the esc being the Ice Lite 100 version, so that should be good.

Was worried about the 60C as most seem to be around 25C but since I know all about all this I dont know if its an issue or not.

Lucky I have an experienced person helping me - he can look at the bec voltage programming etc, but his plan was to run a seperate bec ((??? - I dont even know what a bec is or does, just know its part of the esc... I think... , reading, reading, reading and trying to learn)), but read on this thread that a seperate bec is apparently overkill and gains a weight penalty - but again I like overkill when it comes to electronics, reduces most crashes to pilot error so i am not adverse to the weight penalty for a seperate bec if it reduces the likelyhood of an electronics failure.

I also looked at that motor from all my research reading this thread, (lol - still only 250 odd pages down so far), and seems a very popular choice especially with the mods, but will probably get this later to do a comparison to try n learn some more. And the hacker is pretty light as far as what people are using on this plane..

Thanks again mate. appreciate the help everyone... as you know its a bit of a minefield for a newbie.

Shirty
Glad to be of help!

As for the BEC, Maddux99 does a great description (thanks! ) I will add a few things, however. Firstly, remember if using an external BEC, disconnect the middle red wire on the servo wire coming from the ESC. This red wire purpose is to provide power to the receiver and servos. But of course you don't need this functionality if using an external BEC. So if you added a BEC at 6V with the ESC at 6V and didn't disconnect the tiny middle red wire on the receiver plug coming from the ESC, you would be dishing out 12V to your equipment destroying them

Also, if you decide to use an external BEC, you will need the Castle USB programming cable. It links up to the Castle link software program which can be downloaded from the Castle website for free This same cable and same software will be used to adjust your ESC settings too So buy it! it's cheap and pretty much completely necessary By the way, when programming your ESC, you will need that little red wire in the middle connected so for programming plug it back in and then make sure to disconnect when done with it

To install your BEC, simply solder on the red and black battery wires onto the ESC's red and black battery wires. An exposed parr or wire can be found by cutting some of the wire insulation off. Then wrap the exposed parts of solder with shrink wrap once soldered both of the contacts on with pretty much any of the following or other things if you wish : electricians tape, duct tape, cross-weave tape, etc. to make sure they don't touch. If they do, that will be bad!

I think you should put one in . It adds a bit more complication but the weight penalty is small and adds redundancy. I think the BEC in the ESC is more likely to give up the ghost than a separate one
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:34 PM
Pilot Francis 😄
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United Kingdom, England, Brighton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocOne View Post
Here's what I ended up getting for mine:
- Motrofly 4315-714 Motor
- Castle Ice 100 ESC
- XOAR 15x7E wood prop
- 4Sx4000 batteries
- HS-225 servos

I'll let you know how it flies in a bit!

Doc
Great setup but you may want to upgrade those servos one day, haha!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:36 PM
Pilot Francis 😄
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United Kingdom, England, Brighton
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddux99 View Post
Shirty,
A Bec (battery elimination circuit) is used to reduce the voltage from your lipo down to useable voltage for your Rx and servos. There is a Bec built into your esc or you can disable that one and run a seperate external one. I highly recommend the Castle Bec. It only weighs 11 grams so there really isn't a weight penalty. The pros of an external Bec is that if your esc fails for any reason you don't lose power to the Rx. .
I'm running the same setup as you. Motrolfly 4315-714, 4s 4000, Ice Lite 100, only I'm running digitals, hs5245mg's. I'm running my setup on the built in Bec and esc is cool after every flight. However, there really isn't any penalty for running an external Bec though. I'm sure RCPilot can add more information here as I believe he is running one on his setup. He is also running stronger servos than I am too.
Great description, thanks!

These HS7245's are really nice and very strong as you say I redact my comments criticising them a few weeks ago, haha
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 04:52 PM
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United States, KY, Calvert City
Joined Jun 2010
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No problem I'm glad to share what little bit of knowledge I have. I have had problems with soldering my cc Bec directly to the power leads as you said to do. On a different installation I did just that and as long as the cc Bec was connected to the esc leads (no power) the castle link would not "see" it. I had to separate them in order to program it. It was an off brand esc not a castle so that may have played into the problem but just something to think about. Its not a problem if you program the cc Bec before connecting it but you may not be able to program it again later if needed. I ended up connecting them with the small red jst type plug like this one. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9682
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 05:15 PM
Pilot Francis 😄
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United Kingdom, England, Brighton
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddux99 View Post
No problem I'm glad to share what little bit of knowledge I have. I have had problems with soldering my cc Bec directly to the power leads as you said to do. On a different installation I did just that and as long as the cc Bec was connected to the esc leads (no power) the castle link would not "see" it. I had to separate them in order to program it. It was an off brand esc not a castle so that may have played into the problem but just something to think about. Its not a problem if you program the cc Bec before connecting it but you may not be able to program it again later if needed. I ended up connecting them with the small red jst type plug like this one. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9682
That is very true! Program before you solder
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 05:52 PM
Perpetual 3D Noob
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United States, KY, Calvert City
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Cool, it wasn't just me then.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:17 PM
Aussies fly Down Under!
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Oct 2012
186 Posts
Thanks fellas for the info. MUCH appreciated.


Two other quick ones: (i hope)

1. Would a 4s thunder power 3850mah 60C be a good battery to use? Is the 60C an issue? (most users seem to be running only 25-30?) What is the C rating anyway? (something to do with how much current it can put out under load or something?) I know about the cells, i know the mah is like how much petrol in the tank, but know nothing about the C rating. my local hobby store guy reccomended this battery.

2. Any reccomendations on a new transmitter? I only have a dx6i and read a post from Ben in the fanatics thread that says the dx6i isnt the best for this application: "If it is a Dx6i transmitter, it's never going to be right. That's the way it is. That Tx will not drive servos as far as others, and this is a severe disadvantage. I can get the plane feeling OK, but not great, on a Dx6i. I tell the pilot this. Dx6i's are very much over-represented among pilots who are having problems".


I am sure i will have a dozen other questions before long...
Thanks again.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:37 PM
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United States, GA, Acworth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirty View Post

2. Any reccomendations on a new transmitter? I only have a dx6i and read a post from Ben in the fanatics thread that says the dx6i isnt the best for this application: "If it is a Dx6i transmitter, it's never going to be right. That's the way it is. That Tx will not drive servos as far as others, and this is a severe disadvantage. I can get the plane feeling OK, but not great, on a Dx6i. I tell the pilot this. Dx6i's are very much over-represented among pilots who are having problems".
Yeah whatever feels good in your hands and fits in your budget. Honestly there is no right answer here and everybody is different. I have had the ability to try quite a number of radios because the guys i fly with let me fly their stuff and i still stand by my Aurora9 for many reasons but i can see why every other radio has its pros and cons. In the end if you can try to hold different radios and see which you like the best
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:10 PM
Perpetual 3D Noob
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United States, KY, Calvert City
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirty View Post
Thanks fellas for the info. MUCH appreciated.


Two other quick ones: (i hope)

1. Would a 4s thunder power 3850mah 60C be a good battery to use? Is the 60C an issue? (most users seem to be running only 25-30?) What is the C rating anyway? (something to do with how much current it can put out under load or something?) I know about the cells, i know the mah is like how much petrol in the tank, but know nothing about the C rating. my local hobby store guy reccomended this battery.

2. Any reccomendations on a new transmitter? I only have a dx6i and read a post from Ben in the fanatics thread that says the dx6i isnt the best for this application: "If it is a Dx6i transmitter, it's never going to be right. That's the way it is. That Tx will not drive servos as far as others, and this is a severe disadvantage. I can get the plane feeling OK, but not great, on a Dx6i. I tell the pilot this. Dx6i's are very much over-represented among pilots who are having problems".


I am sure i will have a dozen other questions before long...
Thanks again.


1.C rating does signify the amount of current the pack can supply without damage. On your 3850 mah pack for example: 1C would be 3.85 amps, 2C=7.7 amps, 60C=231 amps (a little outrageous as the 10 gauge leads can't carry that!) Now let's figure what you need, I'm not sure what your hacker will draw at full throttle, but my 4315 draws around 90 amps with a xoar 15x8 (data from this thread as I haven't metered mine). 90/3.85=23.38C needed so a 25C battery should fulfill your needs (depending on the hacker numbers). I'm running a Gens Ace 4s 4000 25C pack & it's only slightly warm to the touch.
Thunder Power packs are top of the line packs and as such they have top of the line pricing. I think the GensAce packs are really great packs and not too pricey, not Turnigy cheap but close at much higher quality. Several heli (running trex 700E, 600E, and SAB Goblin 700's)guys at my club are flying exclusively GA packs now.

2. I haven't ever flown a DX6i but I am flying Spektrum (DX8) and radios are like vehicles, most people have a certain brand they love and everything else is trash. The DX6i is an entry level computer radio and won't have as many features as some others, but I've never heard of travel problems with them. Some at my club fly the Aurora 9 and love them, I absolutely love my DX8, I've never had a seconds trouble out of it, and I have never (ever) lost a plane due to Spektrum (never even had a glitch)
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:02 PM
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United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
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dx6i only has 125% max servo travel instead of other radios that can make use of much more travel. the way around this is to use longer arms which then results in bad servo geometry, and servo blowback
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:11 PM
Perpetual 3D Noob
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United States, KY, Calvert City
Joined Jun 2010
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I did not know that. I learn something new everyday.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:12 PM
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The dx6i isn't a good radio for us 3d guys.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:16 PM
Perpetual 3D Noob
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United States, KY, Calvert City
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Good to know. Come to think of it, I haven't ever seen anyone flying hardcore 3d with a dx6i.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:27 PM
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United States, KY, Calvert City
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Shirty,

If I was you, I would save a heap of money by getting less expensive batteries than the Thunder Powers, then take what you save and upgrade your radio. As previous advise said go check out every radio you can get your hands on. Play with the gimbals, feel the switches, hold it like your flying, and see how it fits your hand, and decide which one you like. Like I said I've never flown the dx6 but I have held one while I was shopping and the difference in gimbals between it and my dx8 is night and day.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:40 PM
Aussies fly Down Under!
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Oct 2012
186 Posts
Thanks again everyone. Cant say how awesome it is to get some advice and help. Everyone has been supercool and I know all these newbie questions get tiring and repetitive, but you guys have been great.

As stated, am new to the sport, (but cant get enough of it!), and i even went to a few clubs here in Perth to check things out, but 99% of the blokes there wouldnt even speak to you! Most hobby shop owners over here the same... (but I am pretty sure they were all tossers to begin with...!)

So getting info has been hard. I only ordered my 59 slick with Rob at ADC the other day, so guessing I have some time up my sleeve to shop around on options. ((note: Found rob at adc - AWESOME! Best customer service I have come across. Aussies could learn ALOT about customer service from you US guys I think!))

Again, I do have an experienced guy helping me with the build, so hopefully all goes well.

ok then. Luckily for me money not too much of an issue, so definately a new transmitter to go buy, and buy some gens ace 4s 3800-4000 25-30C batteries. (if I can bloody find them in Australia!). Should I keep the thunder powers??? I know they are VERY pricey, but once I get the hang of this 3d flying (yeah.. right!), I will be buying a 71 and these may be good to double up for this for a 8s setup? Or should I just cancel the thunder power order? They are about $140 each from my lhs, (australian, and our dollar a bit better at the moment than the us dollar), so again pretty pricey. But then I tend to almost always go for quality over quantity. its been my experience in life that most of the time (not always), but most of the time a lesser quality item has cost me more in the long run.

Im also looking at another motor over the hackerA40-10s, due to the fact it gets pretty hot here in summer. 92-108 F. (had to look up the celsuis conversion.. lol). I have already emailed Ken at subsonic about either the Motrolfly 4315 or the Motrolfly 3620 with his custom conversion. I am thinking the 4315 cause it runs cooler, but doubt as a newbie I need the extra power so maybe the 3620 a better option? Would it handle the heat here?

U guys rock. Or as we say here in OZ... goodonyamate!
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