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Old Aug 30, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by inspector5419 View Post
I got my Dynam Spitfire in on Monday, and that was my worry too, the motor
and it did not come with bell motor so hopefully Mustang will have the same motor, after market props & spinners should be ok
Servos seem to be ok I have talk to a few who are flying the T-28 with no problems and with the stock ESC. I have the dynam ESC on some smaller 800 airfields and have no problems but I am upsizing my 30-amp to a 50-amp with a castle 10a BEC to power all of my servos adding flaps.
I guess it is somewhat of a decent outrunner motor then? Does the motor have the name "Dynam" on it like their ESCs?? The Dynam ESCs look be to dependable but that is just from the photographs?

keep us posted on the performance of the stock motor and servos?
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 11:25 PM
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USA, TX, Van Alstyne
Joined Nov 2010
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Looked on the motor and saw no markings on it but I can tell you it is not the motor NP has listed in there spare parts for the Mustang or the Spitfire.
And other guy on the Spitfire thread got his maiden in and said that it was a great flyer but no barn burner
some guys are having some small QC issues minor dings and such
it will be a while befor I get mine up just started on the flaps and then the paint job.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by inspector5419 View Post
Looked on the motor and saw no markings on it but I can tell you it is not the motor NP has listed in there spare parts for the Mustang or the Spitfire.
And other guy on the Spitfire thread got his maiden in and said that it was a great flyer but no barn burner
some guys are having some small QC issues minor dings and such
it will be a while befor I get mine up just started on the flaps and then the paint job.
OK. The Dynam spare parts must me upgrades on NP?

Correction they are not upgrades. The spare motor parts listed on NP for the Dynam Mustang and Spitfire are the cheap, junk stick mount bell type outrunner motors.
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Last edited by drypipe; Aug 31, 2011 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 02:01 PM
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San Antonio, TX.
Joined Feb 2009
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Has anyone had any sucess drilling holes in the stainless steel motor mount? I want to swap the stock motor with a Power 15 and the mounting holes don't line up so I needed to drill some holes but I'm having a hell of a time drilling through the stainless steel. Anybody have any suggestions?
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 04:49 PM
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NE Italy near Aviano AB
Joined Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by malden86 View Post
Has anyone had any sucess drilling holes in the stainless steel motor mount? I want to swap the stock motor with a Power 15 and the mounting holes don't line up so I needed to drill some holes but I'm having a hell of a time drilling through the stainless steel. Anybody have any suggestions?
Have you tried drilling thru the firewall?
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by malden86 View Post
Has anyone had any sucess drilling holes in the stainless steel motor mount? I want to swap the stock motor with a Power 15 and the mounting holes don't line up so I needed to drill some holes but I'm having a hell of a time drilling through the stainless steel. Anybody have any suggestions?
You have to use either Cobalt Steel Drill Bits, or better, get Titanium (HHS), high speed steel drill bits. you can get then at Grainger Industrial Supply Co., or any store that sells industrial hardware.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 08:19 PM
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San Antonio, TX.
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Thanks for the replies guys.

Vic, I removed the motor mount to measure the replacment motor amd it's a perfect fit if it is bolted on directly to the motor mount. The existing holes on the motor mount do not align with the new motor.


drypipe, I did a search and most people recommend the cobalt and the Titanium. It is also recommended to use slow speed and high pressure. I don't have a Grainger close to where I live but I can check a few hardware stores in the area.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll get this done somehow.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Any machining tool steel is classified as HHS or high speed steel. That does not mean you must run the bit on high speed, but means that it can take the high temp due to friction when drilling stainless.

Also good idea to use a little cutting machine oil as you drill, to take away the heat from the friction which will make drilling faster and make your bits last longer.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 04:38 PM
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Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
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Well it was waiting for me when I got home. Less than 4 days from Athens GA to San Antonio. First impressions are good. Not a top of the line plane so don't expect perfection. All parts are accounted for. No eagle decal though. Its shown in the parts list but the manual is for an RTF. Mine is PNP.
-No damage other then a few small foam indentions(from factory). Small painting overspray and scuffs. Overall looks good.
-Canopy magnet is small and weak. Will be replaced befor flight. Snug fit though.
-Elevator was stiff due to excessive glue on connector wire. Easily fixed.
-Wiring can quickly confuse you. A y-cord was attached to the elevator and rudder
servos. Attached to that was a tricord. My guess is that someone just connected
them at random to secure them in the cockpit. Puzzled about the tri-cord. What does
the third lead go to? The y-cord will take care of the ailerons. Two of the three leads
from the tri-cord will attach to the retracts. Feel free to guide me here.
-Other than connecting the ailerons, theres no wiring instructions in the manual.
-The motor is attached to a metal mount. The mount is held in by 4 screws. Not sure
what it attaches to. To answer a question from previous, looks like you have to remove
the motor to replace the esc. Can't see a way to get to the bullets. As I plan on doing
such I'll tell you whats behind the metal mount when I get to that point.

Will pass on more hopefully useful info that I come across.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 05:19 PM
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Well, from looking at the pics, I guess you get for what you pay for. That is, a slice of moldy cheese.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
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Hey Fuzzy - I friend of mine has this plane. The hatch magnet needs to be repositioned to mate up with the canopy better. We had to add 4 oz of weight to the nose to achieve proper C/G, which makes taxi/take off and landing kinda touchy. We are exploring bending the LG legs forward to make ground handling better. The plane flies nice and very slow. On his first flight, the canopy popped off and the battery jumped out and hung back over the TE of the wing. He managed to pancake the plane with only a slight bend in the right gear leg. Do make sure the canopy has a good and tight fit and that your battery has some sort of extra retainer
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 06:43 PM
Old F-4 Crewchief
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Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
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A few more pictures to answer other questions. The motor mount is a simple metal bracket type. It attaches to a metal plate that is installed in a slot as the two fuselage halves are glued together. Mount does have right and down thrust bent into it. Seems to be very sturdy.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
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Fuzzy, what are dims on the motor mounting holes? From the photos I guess 25mm center to center?
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 07:26 PM
Old F-4 Crewchief
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Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
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From top to bottom 18mm. From left to right 37mm. Those are for the mount to fuselage. For mount to motor its 18mm.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fuzzyhead View Post
A few more pictures to answer other questions. The motor mount is a simple metal bracket type. It attaches to a metal plate that is installed in a slot as the two fuselage halves are glued together. Mount does have right and down thrust bent into it. Seems to be very sturdy.
Just like the FMS designs.
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