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Old Mar 15, 2011, 10:37 AM
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ieyasu's Avatar
USA, CO, Fort Collins
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Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
I need to check with Joe about the nose block, just to make sure. However, I suspect you will find that your patch will pretty much disappear when you sand the nose to shape.
Yup, you're right. All but completely gone, and I still have more sanding to do.
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 11:24 AM
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hog2soar's Avatar
Central California
Joined Jan 2010
957 Posts
Looking Good

I finally finished my conversion of my DLG to electric,so I can now get started on my Chrysalis.

Your's is looking good!

When you glued the balsa sides on the plywood,how much glue did you use? Did you run a bead on the top and bottom and one down the middle of the plywood? Or how did you glue it?

I'm going to be building the "V" tail also,but I plan on running the push rods out the back of the fuselage,rather than drilling holes in the side.

Don,is there anything special I have to do to run the pushrods out the back of the Fuselage?

What color are you going to be doing? I'm going to be doing a combination of transparent red and black.

Looking forward to seeing yours completed and mine getting started.

Keep the pictures comming.

Eddie
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 12:31 PM
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United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by hog2soar View Post
...When you glued the balsa sides on the plywood,how much glue did you use? Did you run a bead on the top and bottom and one down the middle of the plywood? Or how did you glue it?
I prefer to run a zig-zag of medium or thick C/A on the ply (C/A doesn't like to cure on ply, so it gives you more working time than if you put it on the balsa), spaced closely enough that when I press the balsa in place it will wick outwards enough to bond over essentially the entire surface. A spacing between zig-zags of about 1/2" to 3/4" seems to do the job. A single lengthwise bead about a quarter inch below the top, and another that distance up from the bottom edge can help guarantee that those edges get firmly bonded.

Quote:
I'm going to be building the "V" tail also,but I plan on running the push rods out the back of the fuselage,rather than drilling holes in the side.

Don,is there anything special I have to do to run the pushrods out the back of the Fuselage?...
See attached pic of how I did it on the prototype. The angles of the horns get a bit weird, which is the main reason we don't show it on the plans (experienced builders can figure it out for themselves, while beginners might get themselves in over their heads), but they work fine.
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Central California
Joined Jan 2010
957 Posts
[ (experienced builders can figure it out for themselves, while beginners might get themselves in over their heads), but they work fine.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Don,that's what I had planned on doing with the glue.Just wasn't real sure. Thanks for the photo of the push rod and control horns at the "V" Tail. It makes it a little easier to figure things out.

I'm not exactly a beginner,but I'm allways getting in over my head!It seems like I'll do something and when I get done,I'll think of a better way of doing it,and have to re-do what I just did.

Eddie
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 07:00 PM
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Wallingford, Ct
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Here is my version.
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 12:42 PM
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ieyasu's Avatar
USA, CO, Fort Collins
Joined Sep 2010
184 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hog2soar View Post
I finally finished my conversion of my DLG to electric,so I can now get started on my Chrysalis.

Your's is looking good!

When you glued the balsa sides on the plywood,how much glue did you use? Did you run a bead on the top and bottom and one down the middle of the plywood? Or how did you glue it?

I'm going to be building the "V" tail also,but I plan on running the push rods out the back of the fuselage,rather than drilling holes in the side.

Don,is there anything special I have to do to run the pushrods out the back of the Fuselage?

What color are you going to be doing? I'm going to be doing a combination of transparent red and black.

Looking forward to seeing yours completed and mine getting started.

Keep the pictures comming.

Eddie
Well aren't you full of questions I got carried away with gluing the balsa sides, using a swirling pattern over most of the surface, then beads along top and bottom. At least 5 times as thick as Don suggests. It ain't coming unglued, that's for sure.

My plan for colors at the moment is opaque purple on the bottom, white on top and apple green highlights for orientation. Gotta hide the git-r-done 'craftsmanship' you see. Nah, actually I've done that color scheme with an old 1.5m hand launch of mine and I swear it's way more visible than my 2m Gentle Lady covered by-the-box with transparent orange, yellow and red. Looks pretty nice too. I ordered some Ultracote since I had trouble with the Monokote I used on the GL a year ago. The purple isn't as deep as I'd like, but I figured I'd give the other stuff a shot since I've heard good things about it.
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Old Mar 18, 2011, 02:27 AM
Cleveland Ohio
Cleveland Ohio
Joined Jan 2006
244 Posts
wing issues

i have the combo edition. i am building one fuse for electric and the other for sailplane. i am mostly done and at stage where i put in servos. already done the spoilers.

in my rush i built the wing with no wash out. can i fix the issue with the mylar covering? or should i try to steam and twist the wing before covering. i have a left and right pannel. i have not yet put them together.

While the v tail looks great i am using traditional tail for my electric.

another question. at our field most seem to use rubberbands for the wing. what are other thoughts on using bolts?

Bill Snow
Cleveland
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Old Mar 18, 2011, 06:00 AM
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United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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...in my rush i built the wing with no wash out. can i fix the issue with the mylar covering?
You should be able to just twist it in with the covering. It will have a greater tendency to un-twist, so initially you will have to check it more often and re-twist as necessary, but after a few months it will get used to your desired shape and hold that setting.

Quote:
another question. at our field most seem to use rubberbands for the wing. what are other thoughts on using bolts?
The rubber bands are much more forgiving in a bad landing. The bolts are aerodynamically cleaner, and probably more consistent, as well as a little faster to set up at the field. The bolts were not an option in the kit until the MkII version came out, so the only older ones with bolts were cases of someone inventing their own version.

If you're winching, bolts are less forgiving. Make sure you add the recommended carbon to the spars. It's not just your technique on the winch pedal, a winch line does not "give" under load from a gust the way a Hi-start does. I have seen cases where a rubber-banded wing actualy lifted up out of its saddle and shifted aft an inch or so, which put the nose down, unloaded the wing and saved the airplane. Bizarre, yes, not something you would want to count on, but it did help in those cases. Bolts would have broken the wing in that situation.

One thing I should point out: the stock wing spars of the 2-meter are roughly five times stronger, and five times stiffer, than those of a Gentle Lady. The stiffness can be a problem. We did have some cases of stock wings breaking because the flier was used to the more flexible G.L.'s wing, and using the amount of wing flex to judge how hard they could stand on the winch pedal, not realizing that in doing so they were putting five times as much load on the wings. The amount of flex between "still OK" and "too much" was harder to judge by just looking at the flex.
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 01:15 AM
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TexasThermalKing's Avatar
Angleton, Texas
Joined Mar 2007
304 Posts
ieyasu, Very nice work...you're getting close!

The Chrysalis 2 meter is sexy and slick looking. A fine Don Stackhouse design.

Looking forward to seeing her when you are done.

John
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 10:47 AM
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USA, CO, Fort Collins
Joined Sep 2010
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Last week I spent carving and sanding the fuselage to pleasing curves. Not much to say about it, and I'm afraid I don't have pictures either...you'll just have to wait for a fully cleaned up shot later.

Yesterday the weather was so nice I decided to do the glass reinforcing work on the fuselage outside! (I really need a garage to do this stuff in so I can get decent ventilation.) There's still plenty for me to learn about fiberglass and epoxy, and I'm glad I'm learning on this one. I'm past the "bring it home in a bag after every flying session" phase, but I'm not winching yet either.

The glass cloth did not stick into tight corners very well because it was too stiff; I was not prepared for that. If I were to do it again, I'd try to make some kind of heavy block to hold it in place while the epoxy cured. Also, I wanted to mention that the kit includes plenty of extra fiberglass so when I screwed up the front tape around the nose block and at the hatch (no pics, too fuzzy), it was no problem to just cut two more strips without having to run to the store first.

I'm getting so close to done I can taste it. I've got the tail to build, spoilers to fit, covering and equipment installation.
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 11:11 AM
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United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by ieyasu View Post
...Yesterday the weather was so nice I decided to do the glass reinforcing work on the fuselage outside! (I really need a garage to do this stuff in so I can get decent ventilation.)
Yes, epoxy can be quite toxic, particularly the laminating epoxies like West Systems, MUCH worse than the far stinkier polyesters and vinylesters.

Quote:
There's still plenty for me to learn about fiberglass and epoxy, and I'm glad I'm learning on this one. I'm past the "bring it home in a bag after every flying session" phase, but I'm not winching yet either.
I've been doing it for quite a few decades, and I'm still learning.

Quote:
The glass cloth did not stick into tight corners very well because it was too stiff; I was not prepared for that. If I were to do it again, I'd try to make some kind of heavy block to hold it in place while the epoxy cured.
It could also be an indication that you were using too much epoxy, and/or that your epoxy was too low viscosity (i.e.: too runny). A thinner layer of epoxy will hold things in place better while it's curing.

Another trick that can help is to fog the dry tape on one side with a spray adhesive such as 3-M 77 (just enough to make it stick, not so much that the contamination of the spray glue weakens the finished layup), then stick the dry tape in place and brush the epoxy into it with a disposable acid brush (those cheap 1/2" nylon brushes with the tubular metal handles).

Another technique is to mix up some epoxy, brush it onto the wood where the tape will go, let it start to set up so it's gelled but still tacky, stick the tape in place, then let it gell just a little more before brushing on some fresh epoxy to finish wetting-out the tape.

Another option is to tape over the wet epoxy and glass, and onto the wood surface beyond there, with masking tape. The masking tape holds everything in place, something like a vacuum bag, while the glue cures. After the epoxy is COMPLETELY hardened, peel off the masking tape.

Quote:
Also, I wanted to mention that the kit includes plenty of extra fiberglass so when I screwed up the front tape around the nose block and at the hatch (no pics, too fuzzy), it was no problem to just cut two more strips without having to run to the store first.
If you do run short, the 1" Sig brand glass tape is nearly identical. If for some reason you need more of that S-glass unidirectional glass that joins the spar caps at the center section, contact us.

Quote:
I'm getting so close to done I can taste it. I've got the tail to build, spoilers to fit, covering and equipment installation.
Sounds like you're making very good progress. Just be careful not to fall victim to "Let's-hurry-up-and-finish-it-so-we-can-fly-it"-itis.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 12:28 AM
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USA, CO, Fort Collins
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Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
I've been doing it for quite a few decades, and I'm still learning.

It could also be an indication that you were using too much epoxy, and/or that your epoxy was too low viscosity (i.e.: too runny). A thinner layer of epoxy will hold things in place better while it's curing.
Yes. I expect I'm going overboard on the epoxy now, over-correcting my first under-epoxying. I got the polyhedral joint glassing pretty good IMO, but I need to build a dozen more planes to get consistent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
Sounds like you're making very good progress. Just be careful not to fall victim to "Let's-hurry-up-and-finish-it-so-we-can-fly-it"-itis.
Oh, I'm the danger zone on that one. On the other hand, if you don't hear from me for half a year, it's because I've taken that advice to heart :P I tend to go in several month cycles between hobbies, and the end of this plane building cycle is coming.

At any rate, I don't intend to throw this one off a cliff the second I possibly can. I did that enough as a kid. 'Grown up' or not, I'm still pretty much a kid, but I'd like to think I've learned some of the things I shouldn't do so my toys don't break as fast--and work well
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 12:52 AM
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USA, CO, Fort Collins
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Still at it

I've persevered, getting through almost everything before covering this plane. I'm pleased to say that my work quality is no worse than the rest of it. I launched into tail building Saturday and Sunday, cutting lightening holes, rounding the leading edge, tapering the control surfaces, and putting bevels where they need to be.

After gluing the tail sides together with wood glue and letting it set good and solid, I put more reinforcing fiberglass tape over the joint top and bottom. These I squeegeed properly, and did a much better job that way. Monday I epoxied the tail into place on the fuselage, followed by the balsa filler and some putty in the cracks to make it look nice.

Today (Wednesday) I sanded balsa filler and putty out smooth and flat and glassed over the top of the leading edge into the fuselage and around the bottom at the trailing edge and over the fuselage. I tried the 3m-77'd wax paper trick as carrier for the glass. This technique is money! It keeps the fraying at bay, and when I had to separate the glass tape from the wax paper so I could coax it into a compound curve, the epoxy kept the yarn from unraveling. Definitely worth the minuscule extra effort.

Meanwhile, I drilled the bolt holes into the wing Tuesday and into the fuselage hold-down plates Today. I used some rubber bands around the fuselage and over the wing to hold everything in place while I carefully measured the wing to center and square it on the fuselage. I then made alignment marks so I could re-position everything properly while I moved it over to my drill press. My buddy thinks I'm crazy, but I found the drill press (with versatile buckwheat hull pillow) to be much easier to use than a hand drill to get a straight bolt hole where it's supposed to be.

This is my first plane using wing bolts, so I'm pretty clueless about the details. Should I be trying to reinforce the balsa around the holes more than hardening things up with some thin CA? When I go to countersink the holes, should I use a patch of glass to strengthen the area, or again no more than thin CA? Finally, should I tap threads into the wing hold-down plates in the fuse or do I need to install a blind nut?

I've made some great progress, I'm nearly there, but now I need a break before I get frustrated and screw something up. I plan on finishing up by the time the winds die down and real flying season starts around here in a month or two. Stay tuned. I will be keeping an eye on this thread.

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to go enjoy kite season.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:52 AM
Blueplaidcanard flyer
sdy. ny
Joined May 2007
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Nice to see another Vtail chrys.You are going to love the bird.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 09:06 AM
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Winnipeg, Canada
Joined Mar 2006
114 Posts
What is it about naked airframes that look so sexy? Lookin' good!
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