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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:07 PM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
United States, OH, Galena
Joined Jul 2003
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Thanks for the reply. Dihedral is symetrical. I'll just put the airbrake servos on the left side of their respective bays (every little bit helps...) and definitely make sure the washout is right.
Covering will be matt 1.5 mil Doculam with tissue, either doped on or applied with polyurethane. I've had very satisfying and stable finishes with tissue or silk over Doculam.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Don Stackhouse's Avatar
United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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That sounds substantially lighter than standard-weight Monokote or Ultracoat, and the stiffness of the tissue is not going to help much, if at all. In this case, that's all bad.

We went through quite a bit to make balsa D-tube sheeting (something I've seen a lot of beginners have trouble with) unnecessary. However, to do so, we had to rely on the covering to supply some of the torsional stiffness.

If you cover the wing, particularly the inboard panels, with something lighter than regular weight Monokote or regular weight Ultracoat/Oracover (different names, exact same stuff), you could run into flutter problems at high speed.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:00 PM
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robh's Avatar
Napa, California
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNNYDXYZ View Post
I recall seeing something in one of the Chrysalis build threads about lengthening the fuselage to allow for electronics that are lighter (more modern) than those for the original design.

Can anyone link me to that post?
Hey Johnny,

Perhaps a little late to the conversation here, and you may have already stretched the nose on your Chrysalis, but in case you have not I highly recommend doing so. I stretched mine 1.75" and, well, here's the link to the post which provided further details. As Don posted already, you've got a drawing to follow, and the angle of my "slice" is not as shallow as his, but I've had absolutely no trouble at all with it as she is.

From an unscientific POV, I think it made a huge difference and I enjoy it much more now that she's lighter. It's like a completely different sailplane...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=27

Cheers,

Rob
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 12:58 PM
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United States, MI, Lansing
Joined Sep 2012
251 Posts
i plan on building this as my second build, my first one was the sophisticated lady. what complications will i most likely run into? and are there any mods i should look into other than the stretch? one more question... is this glider hard to cover? thats the hardest part for me.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 08:01 PM
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Napa, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnmardister View Post
i plan on building this as my second build, my first one was the sophisticated lady. what complications will i most likely run into? and are there any mods i should look into other than the stretch? one more question... is this glider hard to cover? thats the hardest part for me.
I think that you should not run into any major problems. Don and Joe have produced a very "build-able" kit, with great instructions, and it goes together very easily. Take your time, read, and re-read, the plans and instructions, and you should be fine! Other than stretching the nose on mine, I've not changed anything else from the original, and two days ago I had it out for what was intended to be a short flight and well, 45 minutes later I finally landed it. She flies great!

It's not hard to cover, just take your time, and it will be fine. Enjoy the build!

Rob
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 08:49 PM
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target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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I actually like to cover planes....
Too bad you are in Germany, or I would do it for you!

R,
Target
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 10:23 PM
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Don Stackhouse's Avatar
United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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Read the various build threads on this forum.

Suggestion:
Use Ultracoat or Oracover (exact same stuff, different labels). It's slightly heavier than Monokote, and slightly less stiff, but a lot tougher and more durable, doesn't develop bubbles over time, and goes around compound shapes substantially better than Monokote. It also has the color in the film, separate form the glue (unlike the other brands), so you can re-heat it and peel it up without leaving colored residue behind. I have even re-used pieces of it after peeling it off.

You will need a little more heat in the iron than with Monokote, it takes a little more temperature to activate the adhesive (which is also why it doesn't loosen and sag as easily on hot summer days).

Make sure you use regular weight covering, not lightweight. The weight difference is not significant, and the covering provides a significant amount of the torsional stiffness (needed to avoid flutter). Also, keep the unsupported lengths of the pushrods as short as possible (just long enough to allow for the pushrod's travel), and make sure both ends of the pushrod casings are firmly anchored. Tin the exposed ends of the steel cable pushrods at both ends.

If you use a motor similar in weight (5-6 ounces) to the ones the plane was designed for, you don't need to extend the nose. Some folks wanted to save weight by using a smaller motor, not realizing that when you remove weight from the furthest forward part of the plane (the motor), you have to add more weight than that further aft to get it to balance. That's right, using a lighter motor can make the plane HEAVIER. Extending the nose can fix the problem (and make the plane come out lighter if you don't need competition climb rates), but using a motor of the size originally intended doesn't let the problem start in the first place. Either approach works.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 01:04 AM
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United States, MI, Lansing
Joined Sep 2012
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thanks a lot for the insight everyone. i have been reading this thread quite a bit and haven't seen any problems other than minor fitting issues and i also hear nothing but good comments about this plane. thanks again. ill be back when i build mine in about a month or so hopefully.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 09:27 AM
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United States, TN, Thompson's Station
Joined May 2004
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After a couple of years of lust, I finally ordered my 2M e-Chrysalis kit today. Can't say enough how much I appreciate Don and others for keeping the 'kit' part of the hobby alive and well.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Coldstream BC Canada
Joined Oct 2010
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Don,
A quick and easy question for you. The plans show not to glue the 3 piece joiner tubes. Does this mean not to glue either end? I suspect that is what you intend since instructing us not to glue both ends is rather obvious. Thanks again!
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 01:29 PM
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United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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The joiner rods are retained by those laser-cut gussets at each end. They should be long enough that even if they slide all the way to one side, up against the gusset, the other end will still be engaged with the ply doubler at the other end. As long as that happens, they will do their job, without gluing them in place.

By leaving them free, retained only by the gussets, it's easier to remove them if you have a mishap bad enough to damage a joiner, or if you need to remove them for inspection.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 11:36 PM
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Coldstream BC Canada
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Thanks once again! So great to have the support of the designer on my first build.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 03:08 PM
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United States, TN, Thompson's Station
Joined May 2004
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Ordered 2/11, arrived 2/15. That's fast! Kit looks really nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tblount70 View Post
After a couple of years of lust, I finally ordered my 2M e-Chrysalis kit today. Can't say enough how much I appreciate Don and others for keeping the 'kit' part of the hobby alive and well.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 08:48 PM
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United States, MN, Buffalo
Joined Jan 2007
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And the fun is just beginning!
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 03:52 PM
F3P and Sailplanes-Great!
RayPB's Avatar
S.E. Minnesota
Joined Jun 2007
413 Posts
Thanks, Joe, at DJArotech. Also, a question

I've been stuck for a while here as I tried to work building the wing of my Chrysalis. As with the plans for the fuselage, the plans for the wing are not printed to the exact dimensions. The distance between ribs A and K1 on the plans is about 4mm shorter than the distance between the notches for those ribs on the pre-notched trailing edge. I was having difficulty figuring out how I was going to line up and fit the ribs and balsa sheeting. At times, I thought it might be easier to build over a blank building board rather than try to build over plans that were just a bit off.

Finally, I called and talked with Joe. He suggested I use a 90 degree drafting triangle and, using the notches in the pre-notched trailing edge, draw new lines for the ribs on the plans. Duh! A very simple solution that had completely evaded me. Thanks, Joe. I have the first notchs on the pre-notched trailing edges lined up with ribs K1 and K2 and then have drawn in the new rib lines working towards rib A on the main section of the wing and rib T on the wing tip section.

I am now starting to actually build the wing, and I have a question. I am building the 3-piece wing. There are ply doublers for ribs J, K1, K2 and L. Would it be best to glue the ply doublers to those ribs before installing them, or should I glue the ribs in place first and the glue the ply doublers to them afterwards?

Thanks,

Ray
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