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Old Feb 12, 2013, 10:25 AM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
Fly2High's Avatar
United States, NY, Plainview
Joined Aug 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfinch View Post
Yes, what George said. The rod for the bell cranks looks like a section of 2-56 all-thread. It'll "screw" itself out if you can either get ahold of it from the outside or inside between the cranks as George mentions.
I was thinking of putting a slot on the end so that I can put a screwdriver on it. Glad to know it is 'screwed' in place. I'll try to the hemostats first and once it's out, I can notch the end to make it easier in the future.


Too bad Roland doesn't notch the end to accept a screwdriver.

thanks.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 02:58 PM
SoCal
Joined May 2006
162 Posts
CJ is back!!!

It is great to see CJ posting on the board again. It's been too long.

CJ... Any plans for building a new DLG??? Predator 3 maybe.

Great to hear you are doing well.


Ron R.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:39 PM
excelling at mediocrity
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Franktown, CO. USA
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly2High View Post
I was thinking of putting a slot on the end...notch the end to make it easier in the future...
I "dremeled" a slot, then used a screw driver to back mine out. There's enough of the allthread sticking out to cut a shallow slot pretty easily.

John
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 11:05 PM
Zeus
Wild East
Joined May 2008
291 Posts
Many thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by C. J. Hung View Post
Roland flying his CX3.
Hi J.C., MANY THANKS for your nice pictures and many thanks for your visit!

Cheers, Roland
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 11:17 PM
Zeus
Wild East
Joined May 2008
291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly2High View Post
I was thinking of putting a slot on the end so that I can put a screwdriver on it. Glad to know it is 'screwed' in place. I'll try to the hemostats first and once it's out, I can notch the end to make it easier in the future.


Too bad Roland doesn't notch the end to accept a screwdriver.

thanks.
Hi Frank,

it's probably not a good idea to re-use the skrew while to short to make a proper adjustment of the bellcranks positions. Better use a new screw about 20mm in lengt and trim it off after everything is correctly in place and the srew is tightly secured at booth sides.
Since I considered the mechanics never to be replaced or frequently exchanged, a slot or even the use of a set screw seems not to be necessary. The screw I use is a 20 mm long stainless M2 (2mm) screw, easy to handle while the screw head is still on.

Cheers, Roland
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 12:49 AM
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United States, CA, Vista
Joined Jan 2008
592 Posts
I seem to remember that Roland told me the screw was locked in place by a tiny bit of CA glue. He suggested softening the CA bond by heating the end of the screw with the tip of a soldering iron right before backing the screw out.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 01:00 AM
Zeus
Wild East
Joined May 2008
291 Posts
Alternative pull methods

Since I really don't like the use of pushrods, while increasing dramatically the mass moment of inertia (MOI) behind Cm, I was evaluating some different methods which might bring similar advantages without reasonably increasing the "MOI" and the best of it, easy to modify, without complicated "surgeries"....

Changing the stock pull-pull Kevlar strings for the elevator doesn't seem to be necessary at all. Not any improvement can be detected if changed to a far more heavy (MOI !) heavy pushrod.

As my favorite, a dramatic improvement can be found by changing (replacing) only one string for the rudder, the one which is connected to the LOWER bell crank end (pull side), with a none stretchable (pre-stretched) steel wire of about 0.2 - 0,4mm in diameter.

For the friends of a pull-spring system, The change can be made easyly by disconnecting the string which is not loaded during the throw and connecting the free end to a pull spring, which is connected to a conveniant spot at the servo well. Voila....You have a pull-spring sytem, without having springs installed to the tail feathers....

Happy testing....

Roland
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 05:57 PM
excelling at mediocrity
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Franktown, CO. USA
Joined Mar 2009
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Where can I get 0.2 - 0.4 mm steel wire?
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:17 PM
hass-alfed and bass-ackwards
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United States, AZ, Chandler
Joined Jun 2008
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guitar strings. .009-.015 inches.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:51 PM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
Fly2High's Avatar
United States, NY, Plainview
Joined Aug 2005
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Malin hardened stainless steel fishing leader
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:51 PM
excelling at mediocrity
gopherhunter's Avatar
Franktown, CO. USA
Joined Mar 2009
2,995 Posts
Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuh!

LOL Thanks Tim (laughing at myself) as a guitar player myself... I should have made the metric conversion before asking the question.
I imagined my Super Slinky high E was way too fat! So next time I change strings on the Strat or Tele I'll have a nice pre-stretched 0.23 mm (.009 inch) wire.

Thanks for the "favorite" tip, Roland.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:19 PM
up from the skies
Tmfury's Avatar
United States, CO, Fort Garland
Joined Jul 2011
582 Posts
Noooooo!!!!!
When a guitar string comes off a guitar throw in trash, cause its trash!!! It's been through repeted bends at the nut and bridge and at every fret has been weakend !
You can safely stretch a brand new string w/o causing fatigue and wear to it - one that's been played a while is junk
Even players who don't subject their strings to the pure torture I put mine thru- like bending c# (21st fret) to f# ( full 2&1/2 steps)
Don't risk a concept with a fatigued , compromised high e or b string
Shoot a new one only cost buck 50
I put steel pushrods thanks Gman
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:56 AM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
Fly2High's Avatar
United States, NY, Plainview
Joined Aug 2005
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If you are concerned with the cost, I think the Malin hardened line is cheaper than guitar strings.

Please don't scare us all by using used materials in sucha beautiful plane!!!

Take care of that baby and only use top quality parts!!!
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 09:38 AM
excelling at mediocrity
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Franktown, CO. USA
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I'm not scared.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 06:24 PM
Zeus
Wild East
Joined May 2008
291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherhunter View Post
I'm not scared.
Actually the idea was not the use of a single core steel wire rather than a steel braid or steel strand which is composed out of multiple wires, which gives more safety from breakage and is much more flexible as well.
Such steel braids are used for jewelry such as expensive necklaces, made in Germany and rather inexpensive in compare to a guitar string. Here the link:

http://www.gold-mueller.de/Kettenver...2d81tal7brjkq0

In case you still want to use a single core wire, there is very cheap "Spring Wire" available, similar to piano wire. This types of wire are high strength and available from spring manufacturers. The down side, such wires can't be bent very often, the might break.... The steel braid is by fare on the safe side but would need a pre-stretch.

Roland
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