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Old Feb 26, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Firehawk

yep, thats how I did it. I will see if I can post some pics of my spar mod
I will also take some pics of the front formers, there not installed yet but it will give you an idea where they go, cg will determine exactly where mine will be placed.

is your lander fan the 1280kv one because I also have that one and am trying to decide which one to use

the finish on my fuse was good but their was molding or assembly damage on top that most people would have sent the fuse back for and a horrible mismatch on color to the wings so I decided i would repaint to match color and then fixing the damage became an easy task. ok easy for me Ive been building for 30yrs
by the way be careful with the polyester glass fuse any excessive flexing will crack it, its very brittle. thats another reason I decided to repaint. I believe the two stage auto paint, second stage is a very durable clearcoat (bullet proof) will lend alot of durability to the polyglass fuse.

as far as rudders go I gotta have em (too big of an airframe to not have rudders) my decision is whether to use 3 smaller servos so I can setup a brake function or use one larger servo for standard rudd and steering
I havent decided yet. when I determine the weight difference I will decide

John
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Old Feb 26, 2011, 01:46 PM
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Yes my motor is the 1280kv. I am so gload to have someone else building this plane at the same time as I am lol.
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Old Feb 26, 2011, 03:36 PM
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ok got some pics for you of the spar mod and formers, the spar is 5mm and is installed about 3 1/4 in in front of the existing spar. note that the hole is not centered at the wing root its a little above center so that it clears the intake duct also use 1/8th ply inside the wing saddle for strength (see Pic)
once you get the carbon spar holes drilled out and in the fuse then i used a drill bit the size of the inside hole and taped it in the spar then you just put the wing on where it goes and use the spar to mark the hole for the wing, once you drill thru the ply wing rib then use the spar with drill bit in the end to slowley by hand drill out the foam with the wing in place on the fuse and the spar going thru the fuse and into the wing. hope that makes sense, this procedure made it very easy to get a precise hole in the wing when ready glue it together I will use standard gorilla glue in the wing for the spar because it expands and will fill any voids in the foam and is very strong stuff
I will use 30min epoxy for the wing joint and wood spars

I just recieved my lander 90mm fan and it looks to be a difficult install and a bit heavy I only have the curved lip looks like the straight lip is needed for this install. do you have the straight lip for your fan?
I have the het 9305 fan and it goes right in nicely this may be the route im going to go its also a lot less weight
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Old Feb 27, 2011, 03:14 AM
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I unfortunately have not received my fan unit yet so I cannot answer that question. If the lander fan will not work this project might drag on a lot longer than I expected lol.

I really appreciate the help though since you are shedding light on some of the questions I had. Thanks again
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Old Feb 27, 2011, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcdfrd View Post
kevin,

that thread is the only one out there, have you repaired yours yet, it sounded great, makes me lean towards the het fan after watching your vid again

what is your opinion on our fan/motor choices, their are no video's i can find with an 8s 90mm setup in this airframe

I have found with the four jets that have led me to this one that a elev to flap mix is crucial for slow gentle landings I dont see too manys guys taking advantage of this. maybe Im wrong and there just not talking about it.
did you use flaparons in your setup? if not you can cut down your takeoff and landings to 100ft. takeoffs are non eventfull it will just liftoff at 100ft, landings take a little practice and getting used too but no problem landing in 100ft

I'v read so many of your posts I feel like I know you. great to have you here in this thread

Thanks
John
John,
I used a 6s pack and because of that, my battery was placed in the front part of the model...i.e. I didn't use the tray. With 8S you should be able to place the pack in the designed location. My biggest concern was wingloading and the fact that all of my HV controllers and motors were tied up in other models. So, at my current configuration, flaps were not needed. HOWEVER, based on the little elevators on the model, be careful with flaps as you may not have enough pitch from the elevators to counter the pitch of the flaps.

I'm not too familiar with the RC Lander 90mm so I looked it up. The lip will probably prevent it from sliding into the intake opening. Also I am not too sure if HET corrected the problem with the exhaust tube which may not fit the Rclander unit. I'm sure you can make the Rclander unit work but if it were me I would get a HET or Wemo unit.

As for repairs, I did start them but got side tracked. I was trying to retro-fit a carbon rod in the model and do something about the HET retracts..I really don't have much to do to return the model to a flyable state.
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Old Feb 27, 2011, 04:48 PM
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I was thinking about not using the battery tray, and making a smaller tray to fit lower in the airplane that way I can run my 9s batteries with no problem. I am going to figure out a way to make the lander fan work even if it does take some modification. Judging from the pictures it appears that the battery tray sits rather close to the CG, and with that heavier ducted fan it might be better to move the batteries forward a bit. I suppose I will have to wait until the retracts, fan, and new fuselage make it here first lol.
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Old Feb 27, 2011, 07:17 PM
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Kevin,

you posted in the other thread that you needed 350ft for take off and don't be afraid of using full elevator.....which I agree but based on that statement I would say you do need flaps!....now I may have confused you I did not mean flaps in the usual sense (flip switch ail drop as flaps to a given point) I talking about a flap mixed to elevator so at nuetral stick = 0 flaps and 0 elev as you pull back the stick elevator goes up ail go down proportionately. this way theirs no compensation in elevator for the flaps needed it just works great. also flaps increase lift (I know you know that) which lowers wing loading and keeps the small elev in play. this is how it works. you should try it. by the way both f18's I fly have this mix and both have small elev's. on the 6lb 90mm starmax f18 it would be a total handfull to land without the mix (really hot landings and runnin out of elev)

ya I have the HET 9305 with an arc 3655-2 1400kv I'm going to go with just for ease of install and should go pretty good on 8s

would love to see your f18 back in the air. its a nice lookin bird. what was your auw on the 6s setup?

John
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 11:19 AM
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sorry guys I didn't mean to offend you.

John
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 12:56 AM
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didn't offend me in any way at all, hows the build going?
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 02:11 AM
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great!
I wasnt sure why you started another thread on your same build and kevin got quiet oh well it doesn't matter, its probably me.

build is going good I finished the rudder mod and painted the vertical stabs and rudders, finished my carbon rod canopy hatch locking system today also did some prelim cg checking and that looks great, my original equipment placement is going to workout.

I was wondering what servo's you plan to use, I thought I had hs81's for elev but after checking under magnifying glass their hs60's so i dont think there gonna cut it (I dont see as good as I used too)
I was looking at the t-pro mg90 digitals they look pretty good but not sure, I've spent the last 3hours researching possible servos now my head is spinning.

did you decide on your servo bay install in the wings?
I would not glue the servo's in, two reasons, one the balsa is too soft any prying or trying to remove will break it. second, cant remove servo arm without causing damage. just my two cents. I also not going to glue the elevator servo's in like the instructions say to do, they will be externally mounted right under the stab hopefully add some stability to the weak stab mounting (worried about the horz stabs staying on at 130mph)

how do you like your hl f18? my buddy flys the banana f18 and it goes pretty good after a few mods, but by no means does it do 130plus like they advertise

John
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 01:12 PM
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For the aileron serves I'm using hitec hs-65 ball bearing servos for the ailerons and the hs-65 hb for the elevators. I love my hobby lobby F-18 I have gotten about 30+ flights on it so far and it is an awesome jet. I had one issue with the gear door yesterday but it will be an easy fix.
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 01:43 PM
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ya I'm using the hs65hb on ail but didnt think they were up to handling elev. kit calls for min 2.0kg torq and the 65's fall short on torq I'm going to get metal gear with at least 2.5kg torq, actually just found these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8760
4.7kg torq@6vdc and metal geared for 15 bucks I might try them.

John
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 02:56 PM
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yeah I hadn't completely made up my mind on the elevator but I was planning on using those lol. I might do metal gears as well.
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 11:04 PM
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So I glued the left wing half to the fuselage tonight. I went to do the right side and there was a gap between the fuselage and the wing? I trimmed down the spar and that pretty much did nothing lol. This is very irritating. Anyone else encounter this problem?
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 12:18 AM
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was it on the top or bottom, if it is what I encountered its the dihedral built in to the model. I had a 3/32 gap on the top when the wings were level I ended up using epoxy and micro balloons to make a fillet and fill the gap, you can see it in my pics I've posted

can you post a pic, I'm not too impressed with this kit but the price was right

John
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