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Old Feb 04, 2013, 03:59 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
The Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coriolan View Post
There is one of those Fuji outboard on ebay right now, the price is quite high but still many bidders!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUJI-OUTBOAR...30913665822%26
Somehow seems more recent and maybe larger than .15 displacement!
I am nowhere near an expert on the Fuji's, but as far as I can see, it is just an FW 17 RC (as far as I know a watercooled .15 with layshaft and reduction) but:

--It is the first one of that type ever that I have seen to be all black.
--The condition of the paint looks better than any other NIB I saw on e-bay but I have seen this type only with off-white tail and brown casing.
--The same seller listed a seahorse type, completely disassembled and the parts sandblasted, just about 1 or 2 weeks prior....

In my humble opinion that combination of facts indicates this motor is not original but completely re-done, most likely very recently.

There have been sold a few incomplete "scrappers" of this type recently, so it is most likely built out of combined parts of different motors. A "Frankenstein" Engine...

I am not a collector. I'd like to use the motors I buy. But an engine that possibly has been sandblasted, possibly has been assembled from different, most likely heavily used ones, represents a too big risk to me. One particle of grit somewhere, one worn out part, and the engine is wasted.
And the price might be fair for what is on offer, but for me way too much.

(But it is really a beauty that's for sale there....)

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:13 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
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I just yesterday received my other Fuji....

Although I have seen pics and drawings, now that I have it IRL, it is an impressive little motor with a lot of nice design details.

It was sold as "most probably never run" and at first glance it looked like that.
Further inspection however showed a discoloration of the piston skirt exactly at the projection of the exhaust port in TDC. This is a sure sign of an engine that has been run.
There was also some traces visible of cooling water splashing down in the exhaust chamber in the lower unit.
When I connected the glowplug, I very clearly smelled WD40, which is also not normal in a glow engine.

But, I cannot blame the seller, because it took me a fair amount of time an I needed to disassemble the engine to see these traces.

And even if it would have really never been run.... sure it has lost it's "virginity" this afternoon....

Don't know yet if I am going to run it for real. I know it will loose a significant amount of value, but on the other hand, it was never designed to sit on a dusty shelf.....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:35 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Sep 2006
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Very nice engine,the gear box arrangement is very well designed and build. Fuji engines of the period had very nice casting and this engine is clearly engineered as a power unit for that outboard instead of just being an adapted airplane engine. I specially like the integration of the exhaust like in a full scale outboard, I have a marine Fuji .099 from the late 70's but by then the workmanship wasn't as impressive as your sample and this engine isn't a good runner,believe it or not the fit between the sleeve and the crankcase is so sloppy that the engine just run on a prime!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 01:04 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
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Brutus the cherry popper!
At least the previous owner did put some WD in it so that's not totally a bad thing.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 02:12 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
Brutus the cherry popper!
At least the previous owner did put some WD in it so that's not totally a bad thing.

Nah... don't think I was the first....

But still.... it was satisfying to make her scream ....

We'll see, because whatever is happening, I will not run it in a bucket or drum of water. That just doesn't work.....
Finding another hull suitable for an outboard, will be a matter of (much) time....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 04:39 AM
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New fuel, original prop, lowered motor (0 min 0 sec)


I know this video was posted before, but I don't want to ask a question and refer to "you know, the black one...."

So here is my question:

Currently I am running this engine on 15% Nitro, 10% Castor and 10% Carbulin oil, balance methanol.

I know this engine has had its runhours, so I am not expecting anything.
But something puzzles me: It seems to load up with oil when running.

Sometimes (not Always) performance drops, and when I take it out of the water and clear it by flipping the throttle a few times, it goes again.

Little bit difficult to find a good needle setting this way (and it is sensitive anyway).

It still seems to perform the same from day to day, but while running, I have to repeat this "clearing its throat" several times.
It is not the primitive carburettor, that was not on the engine anymore when I bought it and it has a carb from an OS 15 FP now.

Does anybody have an advise on oil content of the fuel?

For those worrying I might wear out this rare motor, don't worry too much:
I fill the tail to the brim with oil (and model lubricants usually are "water compatible", meaning they form an emulsion that still has good lubricating properties), so there will at all times be ample lubrication of the bevelgears, and even when dead in the water, Oil level is higher than the surrounding water level, preventing ingress of water in the tailcase.
I am pretty sure, the gears are running OK, and I cannot detect any deterioration in bearing clearances.

It is just such a fun little engine to tinker with.... Really a shame they stopped making them.

As for noise: even without a muffler, actually it is not louder than the neighbours kids with their tuned mopeds, because (rough guess) it is not making much more than 8 to 10K RPM. Until now, people even reacted friendly to it (but I am running it in an Industrial area now, not in the pond on the video, that was a one-time afair).

The other day one guy remarked "Nice boat, and I like that dummy on the stern. It really looks like it is a functional outboard"

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jun 22, 2013, 01:19 AM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Canada, BC, Vancouver
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20% total oil content sound reasonable for an engine of that period, the irregularity might have something to do with the tank position in relation to the carb level
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Old Jun 22, 2013, 05:07 AM
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I found one reason being the fuel tube fitting too loose on the connection of the fuel tank (the tubing moves when steering).

Another problem lies in the fact that between idle and full throttle, there is a pretty big difference in the attitude of the boat in those phases, lifting the tank a full inch when running on idle. When the boat is in "full speed" attitude, the top of the tank is maybe max 1 inch below the needle, which should not be too bad....

But the loading up seems to be independant on that. It was not doing this 4 months ago, wneh outside temps and water temp were a lot lower. Also, that time I was running approx 5% castor and 15% synthetics.

According to "the manual" I should run 0 to 5% Nitro and 25~30% castor oil.
But to be honest, I seriously question those figures. 5% Nitro does not want to run at all..... and 30% oil seems a bit overdone....

It seems to run a lot better with the cowling off, and I figure that is because the engine draws heated air when running under the cowling and cooler air without, so I made a tube in the cowling connecting to the carb intake, allowing the engine to take in air from directly outside the cowling. Have not yet found opportunity to run it like that.

I am thinking about fitting a short piece of tubing to the crankcase, to take away a bit of heat from there as well. No idea how to fit that, but we'll see....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jul 10, 2013, 06:49 AM
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I seem to have it running consistent now:

I cleaned the cooling system by circulating a hot ascetic acid (basically very strong vinegar) through the system for a couple of hours.
I enlarged the vent-holes in the engine cowling (in such a way that it is not readily visible, didn't want to spoil the looks), to provide some additional air cooling, just by air passing, there is no fan like the original design.
I fitted an induction tube to the cowling, so the carb draws fresh air from outside the cowling, in stead of heated air from under the cowling (gets over 60 degrees in there).
I lowered compression a bit by putting an extra copper ring under the plug.

As long as I don't foul the prop, it now runs consistent at full throttle until the tank is empty, which is over 15 minutes on a 125 cc (regulation 1:8 buggy size).

The boat is a bit lighter now, and the "tunnel" is seeing air from bow to transom now.

Steps to take in the future: the combustion chamber is horribly inefficient, because the cylinder cover is basically a flat disc with a groove for the pistonbaffle. I intend to make that hemispherical, maybe even with a squishband.
The prop seems to be a bit too heavy, not allowing the engine to get up to RPM, and thus limiting its power. A slightly smaller diameter prop with the same pitch should give better results, as I have the impression, the boat is with only very little slip, and the prop diameter is limiting engine RPM, not the load of pushing the boat (the boat is definitely faster than before, but the engine is running more or less the same RPM).

I don't want to cut the Original prop, and I don't want to use the spare prop of my other Fuji (want to keep that in its Original, still sealed bag). So if anybody still has a prop for this engine lying around in a scrap-box somewhere.....

Some clips:

Fuji outboard in good shape today. (0 min 39 sec)


Another good run for the Fuji Outboard (2 min 1 sec)


Last run of the day.... (3 min 33 sec)


It does not look fast, but at least it is running faster than me....

The last engine stall caused me to swim yesterday....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jul 10, 2013, 08:52 AM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
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What size is the prop shaft, and does it has a drive dog installation? Maybe it could be possible to try a modified Graupner or Octura prop.
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Old Jul 10, 2013, 10:49 AM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
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The propshaft is 4 mm, and it has shear-pin drive.
Bit tricky, because the shear pin is not allowed to transfer thrust (the hub of the prop should bear on the bush of the propshaft) because the shaft does not have a thrustbearing and it would force the bevel gears towards each other.

I am looking for some metal (preferrably Aluminium) Octura props, but thusfar I don't know who sells them over here....

Edit: Just today, somebody ran a Frequency Spectrum Analyzer over my video's and determined that the engine tops out at 10200 RPM. So I am looking for at least 3500 RPM more, and maybe some 40% more power....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jul 10, 2013, 02:15 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
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Octura has some aluminium props for 1/8" shaft but only up to 35mm Dia., its hard to order direct from Octura because they don't have a web site. However they take order by fax:
Octura models
7351 North Hamlin ave.
Skokie, Illinois 60067,USA
Phone # (847)674-7351
Fax # (874)674-7363
Offshore electric carry some:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=16
Astec & Prestwich in the UK carry some
http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/octurapropellers.htm

https://astecmodels.co.uk/props.php
as well as other brands
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Old Jul 10, 2013, 03:25 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coriolan View Post
Octura has some aluminium props for 1/8" shaft but only up to 35mm Dia., its hard to order direct from Octura because they don't have a web site. However they take order by fax:
Octura models
7351 North Hamlin ave.
Skokie, Illinois 60067,USA
Phone # (847)674-7351
Fax # (874)674-7363
Offshore electric carry some:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=16
Astec & Prestwich in the UK carry some
http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/octurapropellers.htm

https://astecmodels.co.uk/props.php
as well as other brands
I think 35 is as big as I can fit anyway, the current prop is 38 mm, and I figure that is a bit too large for the condition of the engine and the weight of the boat
I believe they have a 1435 (35 mm diameter, pitch 1.4 x D) and that is approx what I think will be the best first choice as the pitch is fairly equal to the current prop. If that is successfull, it might be a choice to go for a 1.6 x D prop of that diameter. These butterfly shaped Fuji props don't look like it, but they have a pitch of close to 50 mm, or 1.5 x D.

Thanks for the info on Octura, I'll be looking into it.

EDIT: Unfortunately, virtually all Octura props are left hand drive.... The Fuji has right hand rotation....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Jul 12, 2013, 05:44 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
The Netherlands
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Well.....

I've tried to modify a prop, and I managed to get more RPM, but I did NOT manage to get more speed.
First step, reducing a 39 mm Graupner Carbon Prop to 37 mm gave same RPM as Original prop, but lower speed, reducing diameter further to 34 mm increased RPM, but reduced speed even more, and made it very difficult for the boat to get on plane.
So obviously, that very old prop, is still more or less the most efficient prop for this engine.

Only two possibilities left: Improve the engine, and improve the boat.

So next step: out with the spray rails....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 06:02 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Sep 2006
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A Cox TD .020 outboard

An interesting "Home made" :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8336
Wonder what size of prop he's using?
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