These are the drawings I bought for that Hydro.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261099398303...84.m1439.l2649

Normally not my way of expressing myself, but in this case I can only come up with the word "cute"....

Brgds, Bert

PS: Of course I will try and make a build thread.... if the build will be succesfull.... very long time ago I built a boat from scratch....

That will be most interesting,most likely the same vintage as your engine! APBA still has a class for racing that type of hydro(full size).
http://www.apba.org/modified-outboard
http://www.apba.org/junior
You got a good price on the plan too:
http://casadabalsa.com.br/Shopping/p...74&language=en

Unfortunately I cannot open that casadabalsa link....

Was hoping more people would be still tinkering with vintage IC powered models,
but there seems not to be happening too much in that area.

To be precise, I just want to run stuff like this (old watercooled glowplug inboard or outboard), not for the speed, but just because it makes noise and smoke (which as we all know, is FUN) and because it is fun to tinker with something out of the ordinary.

It is easy to spend a lot of money and buy the fastest availlable (not saying it is easy to build, tune and pilot those) and buy something faster the moment it becomes availlable.
But getting something old to run properly and run it like they used to do it in the old days, has its charms too, doesn't it?

Brgds, Bert

Bert
The casadabalsa's site had the plan for Dickie Do(same as your)but it cost $41.33 just for an e-mail copy! I agree with you building a vintage boat with vintage power is most interesting and challenging. IC power(glow or diesel)is ideal for tinkering,tried fast electric and just found it as boring as using a light switch

Originally Posted by coriolan

Bert
The casadabalsa's site had the plan for Dickie Do(same as your)but it cost $41.33 just for an e-mail copy! I agree with you building a vintage boat with vintage power is most interesting and challenging. IC power(glow or diesel)is ideal for tinkering,tried fast electric and just found it as boring as using a light switch

Wow, that is some price, huh? I hope my plan is of good print....

When I was a kid, my father bought me a model named "Seal", by Klaus Krick Modellbau.... Was a beautiful fast motoryacht, that could be fitted out with up to .40 glow plug engine, but in those days I did not have the money for such motor. So mine was electric, and indeed, even then allready as boring as a lightswitch (although it handled beautiful under sufficient power and I still had a lot of fun with it).

I am still sorry that I sold that boat, I am still wondering how it would have run with a "normal" watercooled engine (normal meaning not an engine tuned to within an inch of throwing a rod) but I have never found one of those boats again on the second hand market. Too bad....

Brgds, Bert

About 10 years ago I bought some of the .049 Sea Fury and Atwood/Wen-Macs off eBay and built some boats for them. I've never run the twin as the crankshaft is loose in the upper crankcase.

Wow.... cool!

Is that free running or RC?

Can't wait till I'm home so I can start building....

Brgds, Bert

It was free running. We live on a large bay, so it worked nicely. I've also taken it out in the boat (1:1) and let it run around me.

Yesterday I got my Fuji running for the first time after 35~40 years of hybernation on an Hawaïan attic....

I have no idea how much power modern outboards make, but I was actually pleasantly surprised how much power this old motor still makes....

The bucket of water I used for testing was emptied in just one or two seconds when I opened the throttle (I replaced the "thing" on the air intake for the airbleed style carb of an old OS FP .15)

The boat I decided to use the motor on, is a contemporary design to the Fuji, but not intended for outboard.
Just going to modify it to accept an outboard.

Brgds, Bert

It is not the most exciting video ever (duh!) but since I could not find ANY video showing a running Fuji, I guess it is some sort of "unique"

Engine and watercooling system test Fuji.AVI (0 min 0 sec)

Apologies for the poor image (low light) and complete lack of excitement, but what the video acutally shows is an engine that has been in storage for 40 year approx, to be brought back to life.

RPM is low, probably due the custom made prop with slightly higher pitch than original, but I guess the engine does not deliver peak power anymore as well.
I think, RPM will rise significantly as soon as the boat is running free.
I hope to shoot a video of that soon, but weather is not cooperating....

Brgds, Bert

May be this site will give you some inspiration or even a kit.....Vintage Outboard Racing It's in German but Google translate can help you with that if needed.

I know that site, and actually, the motor is more or less 1:5 scale.
But the 152VO class is still too much about racing (and this is NOT a very fast engine by any standard), and as far as I know, in 152VO all is electric....

But I allready have my drawings of the Dickie Doo (see my earlier postings)
The old hulk in the video is just a test-platform.

Brgds, Bert

The engine run nicely considering its vintage, it wasn't intended for racing back then and is basically a sport engine made into an outboard. The prop load seems correct for a static run,it will unload a lot while running freely

Since it is my first IC powered boat (meaning, IC engine driving a hydro prop) I have no experience whatsoever with unloading etc etc.

On the vid, it is running with the throttle 50~60% open, and I seem not to be able to get it to WOT: the engine dies, regardless of needle opening.

I think, that has to do with the RPM being too low to keep proper fueldraw
(the carb is not original, but from an OS FP15). So I have to take into account that it will draw fuel a lot better when it revs up, but I have no idea whether I need to lean it out or not.

Very possible, that the needle settings optimal for free running, will not allow the engine to run while the boat is kept in place....
So finding optimal needle settings might prove to be a challenge....

Brgds, Bert

In the test your fuel tank is very low in relation to the carb and glow engines that small don't have much fuel draw in the first place. The old SeaFury,WenMac and other of similar design worked because the fuel tank was level with the venturi and close. It is not possible to needle a boat engine while static(will be too lean while running)like what being done with airscrew as the load on a boat propeller vary considerably. With partial throttle your engine has actually better fuel draw because of the intake reduction but looses it as soon as you open full throttle and die of fuel starvation. The needle not being very sensitive is a good indication of problem with fuel draw, but you have a good runner with that engine at any rate!