Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 11, 2004, 07:38 PM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
hey dude looks good. wish mine was in one piece still. did my flaps and they worked great. looked so good in flight and slows down very nicely. but i had a battery go dead and she went in on the first flight after adding the flaps. big bummer. wing is shot but the fuse is not too bad, just the firewall popped out. i will get a new wing in a few weeks and rebuild. have fun with the mentor. you will love flying it. the hack.
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Old Feb 12, 2004, 08:38 AM
Wow!My plane flies!
daryl's Avatar
Sarawak,Malaysia
Joined Sep 2003
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email
sk_teo@tm.net.my

He got one aslo from World Models.
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Old Feb 13, 2004, 12:48 PM
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Well I have completed the electronics installation with the exception of retracts which I will probably add later. I get the engine in a couple of days. The only issues I have run into are very minor. One is that the front tip of the rudder was a bit warped. This meant that when the rudder was straight, the tip did not line up with the vertical stab. I ended up cutting back some of the covering, putting a slit, flexing the tip in the direction it needed to go and then dropping some thin CA in the slit. When the CA dried it prevented the tip from flexing back so now its in line. Probaby was a better way but this was fast and it worked. Second is the front wheel. Directions call for two collars and the wheel. Problem here is that the axle was so short it does not accomodate all three. The outside colars locking screw is about half way on the tip of the axle. I don't feel safe with that so Im going to either find some narrow colars or grind these down a bit.

On a plus side, the manual calls for you to grind flat edges at certain measurements on the landing gear for the set screws but the gear in my kit already had these spots so there was no measuring or grinding.

In my opinion this is a quality kit. How it does in the air is yet to be seen. I have the option of setting my ailerons up on two channels (1 each), which will allow me to use them as flaperons. This is controlled by a knob on the radio that will let me set the flaperons to any percentage. Should I set it up this way or just go straight ailerons?
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 10:31 AM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
dont do flaperons, i tried this also and i had a minor contact with the ground. it makes the mentor tipstall badly. not recomended. if you want to add flaps you will have to add them in the proper spot. not hard but it takes some time. the inner part of the wing is not solid but built up. i had to add some aileron stock to the inside of my flaps and then add some bracing to the wing where they attach. it looks really good with flaps deployed and slows down nice. try flying with just ailerons for now and maybee add flaps later. but please dont do flapperons you will kill the mentor. i even tried the airbrake function on my t6 radio and that doesnt work well either. i dont think that the wing is designed for those type of functions. but remember to get the proper aileron diferential. this helps the mentor roll properly. do whatever the manual says the adjustments are it flies very nice this way. good luck! the hack
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc.hackmaster
dont do flaperons, i tried this also and i had a minor contact with the ground. it makes the mentor tipstall badly. not recomended. if you want to add flaps you will have to add them in the proper spot. not hard but it takes some time. the inner part of the wing is not solid but built up. i had to add some aileron stock to the inside of my flaps and then add some bracing to the wing where they attach. it looks really good with flaps deployed and slows down nice. try flying with just ailerons for now and maybee add flaps later. but please dont do flapperons you will kill the mentor. i even tried the airbrake function on my t6 radio and that doesnt work well either. i dont think that the wing is designed for those type of functions. but remember to get the proper aileron diferential. this helps the mentor roll properly. do whatever the manual says the adjustments are it flies very nice this way. good luck! the hack
Thanks Hack.. thats just the kind of response I was looking for. I will definitely go with just ailerons for now. Picking up the Saito 72 today along with all the odds and ends, you know the stuff that tacks another $100 on to what you were expecting to spend in the first place
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 09:37 PM
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Joined Jan 2004
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Saito 72

I got my engine today. Got it mounted to the engine mounts but when I got ready to mount it to the firewall I found that they did not send blindnuts. Its held in place temp with a smaller screw and blindnut.
Three problems I have found. The steering arm on the front gear in the neutral position is going to hit the cowl. I will be able to turn left but since its already touching at neutral I wont be able to turn right. Since the gear already had a pre-flattened spot on the gear for the steering arm set screw I cannot reposition the arm. I would have to file another flat spot and it has to be at that same height. Im scared that would weaken the gear to much.

Second is the front of the engine mount nearest the landing gear blocks is all but touching the blocks. Its not quite there but you couldnt stick a penny between them. It is mounted as instructed and there is no more room move the engine assembly up. I dont need to notch the blocks because that would certainly weaken them.

Third is the muffler on the Saito looks like its going to require that I cut the cowling because it extends to far out. Again no room for moving the engine assembly because it would throw the shaft off center. I'm hoping they make a slightly bent threaded tube to replace the one in there. that would give me the clearance..

Thats it for now.
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Old Feb 15, 2004, 06:37 PM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
first, shorten the steering arm a little and you will have to open the cowl a little, but i would reccomend retracts they look soooo cool. 2nd lightly carve away the gear blocks to get clearance, they are nice and hard wood. i have had a couple of hard landings and even when i crashed the wood is still together. 3rd, you have the newer style of muffler. try to get the older style, i think it comes with the 100 but not sure. check horizon for the other style and i will try to get a pic of my cowl, granted its ugly after the crash but it will give you an idea of what it should look like. btw i used a saito 65. little shorter and skinnier of a motor. the 72 is the large engine block the 65 is the medium size block. but youll have good performance with the 72 use a 13x7 or 8 apc prop. another thing is you will have to add a bunch of weight to the tail, the tail cone is perfect for this. i added about 1.5 ounces to my tail you might have to add 2 oz. just a guess but good luck and let me know how it balances out. good luck, hack. .
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Old Feb 17, 2004, 02:18 PM
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Joined Jan 2004
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Completion

Well I'm finally done. As I said before, overall its a great ARF Kit. Only missing parts were the blindnuts for mounting the engine mount. Manual stated 6/32 blindnuts. Luckily I took one of the bolts with me to Home Depot. I tested it on a 6/32 and it was to small. The size is actually 8/32.

I thought about getting an angled nipple to bring the exhaust pipe inside the cowling but even doing that I would have had to cut away cowling anyway because the exhause port on the head was not completely inside the cowling so I left it as it was and just cut away for the pipe as well. My steering arm problem was solved by shortening the arm as suggested by hack. I also installed a quick fuel port. Retracts will go in this weekend but its ready to fly as is after I set the CG.

As far as breaking in the Saito. Book says not to exceed 4,000 rpm. I have not way to guage this so whats the best way to ensure I do not exceed that? Also on the Saito 72, right under the crank there is a nipple. Is this just for drainage? I ran a piece of fuel tubing from there and out of the bottom of the cowling.
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Old Feb 17, 2004, 08:10 PM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
good job on the cowling! looks good. now all you need is the hangar 9 1/7 scale ww2 pilot. he fits perfect and looks really good in the cocpit. the nipple is for excess crank pressure and drainage. what you did with the fuel tubing is correct. as for breaking in the saito just dont throttle it hard and let run a bit above idle just dont go too far above idle run a tank or 3 to get it broke in. and keep it rich,rich,rich! good job it looks good. you will love flying it. remember set it down easy with the factory gear. the tires are hard as rocks (get some robart wheels they look better and have some cusioning effect)it will bounce and you could break loose the landing gear blocks in the wings. if you hear a pop on a hard landing you have. also flare at the last second on landing it kinda likes to just keep flying if you flare early. good luck! hack.
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Old Feb 17, 2004, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc.hackmaster
good job on the cowling! looks good. now all you need is the hangar 9 1/7 scale ww2 pilot. he fits perfect and looks really good in the cocpit. the nipple is for excess crank pressure and drainage. what you did with the fuel tubing is correct. as for breaking in the saito just dont throttle it hard and let run a bit above idle just dont go too far above idle run a tank or 3 to get it broke in. and keep it rich,rich,rich! good job it looks good. you will love flying it. remember set it down easy with the factory gear. the tires are hard as rocks (get some robart wheels they look better and have some cusioning effect)it will bounce and you could break loose the landing gear blocks in the wings. if you hear a pop on a hard landing you have. also flare at the last second on landing it kinda likes to just keep flying if you flare early. good luck! hack.
Thanks Hack. I have already hit a snag and I'm not quite sure what to do. I got a 2 1/4 inch spinner but the flange on the Saito 72 is larger than the area it should mate up to in the spinner backplate. Am I going to have to go with a larger diameter spinner to get it to mate up properly? Thats going to take away from the look of the plane if the spinner is larger than front of the cowling. Hope you have some advise for me on this one. Its not going work using the spinner I have.

Also on setting the CG... when I'm setting it to the recommended point, do I have the tank empty or full?
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Old Feb 18, 2004, 04:27 PM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
first, cg always empty tank. if you do it full as you get to empty your cg moves back and the plane gets more and more unstable. allways do the cg with an empty tank. with a full tank its going to be nose heavy and thats ok. show me a pic of the spinner backplate ant the flange on the saito. ...are you talking about the 2 knurled surfaces where the drive flange and the spinner mate together at? i will be here later tonight. its 2:30 in seattle. i will be on after 9pm. hack.
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Old Feb 18, 2004, 08:39 PM
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Originally posted by rc.hackmaster
first, cg always empty tank. if you do it full as you get to empty your cg moves back and the plane gets more and more unstable. allways do the cg with an empty tank. with a full tank its going to be nose heavy and thats ok. show me a pic of the spinner backplate ant the flange on the saito. ...are you talking about the 2 knurled surfaces where the drive flange and the spinner mate together at? i will be here later tonight. its 2:30 in seattle. i will be on after 9pm. hack.
I got the CG set late this afternoon so I didn't get to take it up. Spent most of the day driving because the nearest hobby store is about 100 miles round trip. I was able to get by with 1/4 ounce weight in the tail. I moved my battery pack behind the servo box and its secured nicely. That kept me from adding even more weight.

Yes the knurled surface (couldn't think of that before) is what Im talking about. Thats the reason I drove to the hobby store. I found one that works. The backplate for the first one is knurled and there is a raised ring around the knurled area. That ring was the problem because the flange on the Saito was larger. I found one that does not have the raised ring and was able to stay at 2 1/4 inch.

So now its just a matter of taking that first flight. I plan on tomorrow if its not to windy. I also picked up a tachometer so I can set the engine correctly. Off the top of your head, how far off is the break in setting of 2 1/2 turns, from being the optimal setting.... 1/2 turn, 1/4 turn ??? Just an approximate.

Again thanks for all of your help.
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Old Feb 18, 2004, 11:21 PM
check your six!!!
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maltby washington
Joined Mar 2002
31 Posts
approxamately 2 turns or so. since you have a tach user that for your final needle setting. set the max rpms for about 9500 to 10000 rpms. no more than 10 grand. it will do about 12 grand but play the safe side since its new. i set mine for 9500 with a 13x8 prop great pull. if you can weigh your plane. it should fall around the 6 1/2 to 7 lb mark. the 72 should pull stumps! in a 7 pounder it should fly really nice. btw on first take off ease into the throttle and get it rolling good then stab the throttle, wait for a little speed then just pull back and it will climb nice. also keep the elevator on low rate and the ailerons on high. the elevator on high rate will make the mentor snaproll if you give too much elevator in a tight loop. it does fly well on low rate. set high rate just a little more than low rate. although i never flew it on high rate after the first snaps. scares the s**t out of you! yikes! try to fly it scale with combined rudder and aileron it looks killer and very scale. stalls are fair and i dont remember if it tips a wing or not. but get lots of altitude and then try it. and dont slow down too much till you are ready to touch down, it does land kinda fast but not too bad. do you have a grass or paved runway? we have a canvas over dirt with grass on each side. 200' long or short should i say. the guys at our feild say (and so do i) if you can land at our feild you can fly anywhere. our feild is called nimitz feild. i call it an aircraft carrier cause its so short but i love flying there. hope all the info i have given you helps. where are you flying at (state)? good luck on the maiden flight! happy landings...hack
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Old Feb 19, 2004, 08:07 AM
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Originally posted by rc.hackmaster
If you can weigh your plane. it should fall around the 6 1/2 to 7 lb mark. the 72 should pull stumps! in a 7 pounder it should fly really nice. Where are you flying at (state)? good luck on the maiden flight! happy landings...hack
Im in Vicksburg Mississippi. Im driving about 10 minutes to Edwards where there is a long grass strip used by crop dusters. Its at least 1/4 mile long. The only way I could weigh it was to weigh myself on a scale then hold the plane. Difference was 7 pounds.

Your information has been a great help. Thanks.
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Old Feb 19, 2004, 11:10 AM
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Joined Jan 2004
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I R PISSED

All time getting ready and I was going to fly today. Broke in the engine as specified by the instructions. Started it up today from 2 1/2 turns open. Positioned the tach and started to turn in. The engine reached 8100(ish) rpm and would not exceed that. I went in a bit more slowly and it would then sputter and die, apparently starving for fuel. I called hobbytown and I am waiting on a call from them. I don't know what they are going to want to do but I certainly hope this does not turn into me waiting for the engine to come back from the manufacturer.
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