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Old Feb 18, 2011, 09:09 AM
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All of the assembled parts, plus the cockpit sides and the floor boards can now be primed with the spray primmer on all sides, and set aside for final finishing later in the build.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:11 PM
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The engine hatch must be cut in half at this time in the build before proceeding with the build up of the final finish on the model. Run a piece of painters tape down the center of hatch over the King Plank. Now turn the hatch upside down and cut between the two center frames of the hatch. Once cut in half sand the deck of the hatch smooth with the face of the frames. Remove the masking tape from the deck.
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:14 PM
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The 1/4" x 2” x 3 1/2” ply wood motor mount board must have a center line mark drawn in it running the 3 1/2” length of the board. This will be lined up with the center of the keel on both ends of the board when sitting in the motor mount angled notch in the keel in front of frame 5 inside the hull. Mix a batch of the 12 minute epoxy glue and coat the angled keel notch inside the hull. Now take the marked motor mount board and set it down on the glued keel notch lining up the center line of the board with the center of the keel. Let the glue set up completely before continuing.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:19 PM
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[Now take the Mack Marine Motor #5045 and the precision double joint universal #UD-2 and install one end of the universal on the motor shaft. The propeller shaft assembly must now be re-installed into the model thru the strut and the stuffing box in the hull. The previously installed soft candle wax should push right out of the stuffing box. With the shaft installed back in the hull, leave 1/16” clearance between the propeller drive dog and the face of the strut bearing.

Inside the hull slide the motor and the open end of the universal on to the propeller shaft for the full 1/2” of the universal end. Align by eye, the motor, universal and the keel as straight as possible and then mark with a pencil the four motor mount screw holes onto the motor mount. Slide the motor and universal off the propeller shaft, and drill four pilot holes for the motor mount screws.

NOTE: the motor and universal can be taken off the motor mount to make screwing down the motor mount easier. Now re-install the motor and universal back thru the mounted motor mount. Slide the shaft back up into the universal making sure to leave the 1/16” clearance between the strut and the propeller drive dog.

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 18, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:26 PM
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The motor and mount as well as the propeller shaft can now be removed from the hull while finishing the hull.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Now take the left side cockpit panel and install the panel into the hull with the top edge of the panel going up against the shear frame first, with the bottom sliding in over the frames at the bottom. If they are too tight to go in, sand the bottom of the side panels until they slide in easily over the frames. Do the same with the right side panel.

Next take the kick board sub assembly and sand the bottom edge of the kick board flat with the bottom of the angle frames. Next sand the top edge of the kick board flush with the surface of the angle frame. See DWG #10.

Now set the kick board angle frames into their laser cut slots in bulkhead frame 5. Mark with a pencil where the top of the taped out sections at the bottom of the side panels are on the kick board. Remove the kick panel and measure in from the sides of the kick panel 3/32” and draw a line up to the pencil marks from the side panels. This is the amount of clearance which has to be removed for the kick board for the side panels when the finished mahogany trim is installed later in the build. Re-install the kick board for fitting the floor boards.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:32 PM
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Now take the left floor board and install it into the hull by passing the back of the board back under the rear deck then forward under the kick board to rest on the deck frame glued on the bulkhead. Slide the floor board out against the side panel. Mark where the center of the keel is on the floor board with a pencil mark. Remove the floor board from the model.

Now install the right side floor board the same way that the left floor board was fitted into the boat. With the floor board slid out against the side panel, mark the position of the center of the keel with a pencil mark. Remove the right side floor board from the hull.

All trimming of the floor boards for fit will be done on the outside edges of the floor boards where they butt against the side panels. The inside edges (center keel line edges) are laser cut perfectly straight for a good center butt joint over the center of the keel.

Now measure the distance from the center side of the floor board to the pencil mark. Add 1/16” to the measurement and that is the amount you will mark off from the panel side edge of the floor board for each of the floor boards. Once trimmed set the floor boards aside for the final fitting later in the build.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:38 PM
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Before proceeding with the finish of the hull, the decision as to paint the interior of the engine compartment must be made. We choose to paint the interior of the hull the same color as the prototype and air brushed the interior with the surrounding decks masked off to avoid over spray. The paint color used was Valspar (Voyage –grey-satin).

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 19, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:41 PM
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With the primmer bottom paint of the hull now fully cured, proceed to tape out the primed bottom of the hull on the water line with painter’s masking tape and newspaper.

The finial build up of finish will be done with three coats of Minwax “HELMSMAN SPAR URATHEANE”clear satin, and two coats of Minwax clear polyuratheane. NOTE: The reason for using the Helmsman first is because it has UV protection in it. The reason for switching to the straight Minwax clear is that every coat of the Helmsman added, makes the finish go a shade darker in color. The Minwax clear does not change the finish in color.

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Old Feb 18, 2011, 05:43 PM
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The finish is done in the exact order and procedure as was done with the epoxy finishing resin. Masking out and doing one side at a time, for each of the five polyurethane finish coats lightly sanding with 600 grit sand paper between coats.

Once the final coat of the Minwax clear urethane has been applied to all the surfaces set the hull aside for at least 4 or 5 days to dry out and allow the finish to harden before proceeding.

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Old Feb 19, 2011, 09:23 AM
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While waiting for the polyurethane finish to completely harden, move on to finishing the upholstered interior of the cockpit. The real boat had all leather interior as well as the cockpit bunting done in a marbled reddish brown color. We found a faux color kit at the local craft store which mimics the leather in both color and texture, which we used to paint the seat, side panels, bunting and the dash board glove box interior. The kit is by RUST-OLEUM American Accents “Classic Leather #7987-955”. This is a three part system of painting overlaying color coats of paint with base coat, and then a second color coat which is applied and then given a textured and blotted effect with the included thin plastic sheet which is crumpled and blotted on the surface of the wet second paint coat.

When painting the bunting we stretched the bunting on the edge of the building board and taped the ends down with masking tape. After completing all the painting on the bunting we left the bunting attached to the board until ready to be installed onto the hull.

Once all the painted surfaces have dried, the first of three coats of the water based satin clear polyurethane was air brushed over the painted surfaces. The final effect is a very realistic mimicking of the leather interior of the prototype. Set the parts aside for 24 hours to let the paint harden completely. (pic06070)

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Old Feb 19, 2011, 09:28 AM
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Once the parts have dried, the assembly of the seat can be done using assembly DWG #9 as your guide. With the seat bottom sitting on a flat waxed paper surface, glue the seat splicer (SS) centered to the back edge of the seat bottom with 12 minute epoxy glue. Once the glue has set, coat the face of the seat splicer above the seat bottom with the 12 minute epoxy glue and then set the seat back centered over the seat bottom in position and lay the assembly on it seat back for the glue to cure.

The mahogany cockpit trim boards must now prepped for their finial gluing to the cockpit side panels. The trim boards will be wet sanded with 600 and then 1200 grit wet & dry sanding paper. Once sanded and dried they will be hand buffed to a high gloss with the Imperial Micro-Finishing Compound.

The finished mahogany cockpit trim boards will be glued to the unpainted bottoms of the cockpit side panels. They will be glued flush with the bottoms of the panels and trimmed to length to the front and rear of the panels.


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Old Feb 19, 2011, 09:31 AM
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The finished cockpit side panels can now be installed into the hull and glued to the frame blocking at each of the frame stations with 12 minute epoxy.

The dashboard can now also be wet sanded with first the 600 and then the 1200 wet & dry sand paper and buffed with the compound to high gloss finish and set aside for its final assembly later.

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 19, 2011 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 11:05 AM
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The kick board will now have its rubber matting applied to it using the DST-3 attachment tape. Apply the attachment tape to the across the face of the kick board covering the entire surface. Now take the ribbed rubber matting and cut a piece wide enough to go from top to bottom on the kick board. NOTE: The ribbing will be running the width of the board. Once cut peel back the protective covering from the attachment taped on the kick board and spot the rubber matting (smooth side down) onto the kick panel. Press the kick board face down against the rubber matting on a flat surface to make sure there are no air bubbles between the rubber matting and the attachment tape. Trim any excess matting hanging of the edges of the kick board. Also cut out the foot throttle slot and the hole for the steering column pin with a sharp Xacto knife blade.

Install the kick board back into its slots in the bulkhead cockpit, but do not glue. Now install the floor boards back into the cockpit, under the kick board, and slid into position. If any final trimming has to be done on the floor boards to fit into position, they will be sanded to fit on the out sides (panel sides) only. Once installed into the hull, mark where the front of the kick panel is on the floor boards with a pencil line.
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 11:30 AM
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With the floor board still in place install the assembled seat into the cockpit in position with its back against the frame #7, and mark the front of the seat bottom on the floor board with a pencil line. Remove the seat assembly and measure back from the pencil line 1/4" and draw a straight pencil line. Now take the bass wood seat riser and place the front of the riser on the line centered in the width of the cockpit. Spot and drill the two 3/16” drill holes thru the floor boards. Now remove the seat riser and install the two dowel locator pins thru the seat riser so that pointed ends are sticking thru 1/4” and glue in position with thin CA glue. Cut the backs of the pins flush with the face of the seat riser. The seat riser can be painted with the Black textured spray paint which will be used for the floor boards and the kick board.

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 19, 2011 at 03:07 PM.
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