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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:33 AM
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At this time assemble the mahogany dash board (DB) from the parts located on laser sheets S1 and S10. The mahogany dash board can be glued to the lite plywood dash board with medium CA glue. Set aside for finishing later in the build.

With the hull completely sanded you can now remove the rear hatch from the hull. With a Xacto knife proceed to cut the tack glued balsa wedges from the engine hatch and remove the hatch from the hull. Sand smooth the hatch frames in the hull as well as the engine hatch sides were the balsa wedges were glued.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:36 AM
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Locate the 3/8” x 1 1/2" x 12” hard balsa keel blocking. Cut the piece exactly in half, netting two 6” long pieces. These two pieces will be fit between frame #6 and frame #7 and to the bottom of the hull, on both sides of the keel, and flush with the top of the keel. Once fit glue in place with the 12 minute epoxy glue.
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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:40 AM
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The next item to be installed into the hull is the rudder stuffing box (RSB-175) which will be slipped into its hole with the knurled (marked) end going into the hole first. It will go into the hole until only 1/16th of the stuffing box is sticking out of the bottom of the hull. Tack glue the stuffing box in the hole with medium CA glue.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:44 AM
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The propeller assembly is the next items to be installed into the hull. The parts needed are the, Propeller, propeller drive dog, and the streamline tail nut (found in the propeller package), the propeller stuffing box, propeller shaft, and the strut. First slide the propeller drive dog on to the propeller shaft, then the propeller and screw on the streamline tail nut. Line up the drive dog key way with the slot in the front of the propeller and slide the assembly back against the tail nut. Now take the Allen key provided with the drive dog and lock the set screw in the drive dog against the propeller shaft.
Now take the propeller assembly and slide it thru the strut. At this point a little light grease like petroleum jelly or 3 in 1 oil can be applied to both ends of the propeller stuffing box bearings. Wipe any excess off the out side of the stuffing box so it will not interfere with the gluing of the stuffing box in the boat. Slide the propeller shaft into the end of stuffing box opposite the knurled (marked) end.
Take the entire assembly and slide it into the propeller stuffing box slot in the bottom of the hull. When I position in the hull the strut will have a 1/16” gap between the face of the strut and the drive dog and will have its base flat against the bottom of the hull. The stuffing box end bearing face will just be clearing the bottom surface of the hull. Now mark the location of the 4 mounting screw holes in the strut base on the hull.
Remove the assembly from the hull and proceed to drill the 4 pilot holes with a #53 drill, for mounting the strut.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:47 AM
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Reinstall the assembly and mount the strut with the mounting screws. At this point check the assembly for aliment by turning the propeller shaft with your fingers. If tight, loosen the screws in the strut to see if it the shaft turns more freely. If so, mark the base of the strut so that some of the wood can be removed under the front of the strut base plate to align it with the stuffing box.
2. Once satisfied with the alignment with the strut screwed down, we glued around the strut base with medium CA glue to lock it to the bottom of the hull. With the stuffing box face just stick thru the bottom of the hull, we tacked glued the sides of the stuffing box to the sides of the propeller slot in the hull to lock it in position for the finial sealing of the stuffing box into the hull.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:50 AM
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A finial check of the under water running gear is in order before the sealing of the stuffing box into the hull.
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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:53 AM
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Now remove the rudder and the propeller shaft from the hull. Using masking tape, tape around the propeller stuffing box on the out side of the hull. Take your time in masking out and use enough tape to make sure that the resin that will be poured in around the stuffing box from inside the hull does not leak out. Note: Also at this time it would be a good idea to seal the stuffing box ends and the rudder stuffing box ends with some softened candle wax to prevent any resin from entering the bearings. (picture was taken before the propeller shaft was removed)

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 06:56 AM
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Now from the inside of the hull we again plug the ends of the stuffing boxes, both the propeller and the rudder, with the softened candle wax. The boat will be positioned on its transom and from inside the engine compartment we will see where we have to pour the mixed epoxy resin around the stuffing box into the stuffing box slot.

Mix a batch of the epoxy finishing resin and carefully and slowly pour the resin around the stuffing box, stopping every so often to allow air bubbles to escape from around the tube. Fill the slot to 1/8” below the stuffing box end with the resin, and let it set until the resin cures.

Once the resin has cured around the propeller stuffing box, the masking tapes can be removed from the out side of the hull. Now mask out around the rudder stuffing box to prevent resin from running out from it when we seal the rudder stuffing box in with the finishing resin from inside. A much smaller amount of resin needs to be mixed to seal in the rudder stuffing box from the inside of the hull. Once sealed and the resin has cured, the tapes can be removed from the out side of the hull.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 07:00 AM
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Before continuing with the build the entire hull should be block hand sanded with 180 grit sand paper and then thoroughly dusted off in preparation of finishes to be applied to the mahogany planking and deck. TIP: At this time you might want to make a temporary stand of sorts out of a cardboard box. We cut a section out of opposing sides of the box to allow the model to stand on its side there by allowing us to work on the upside of the model in a flat horizontal plane. The box stand will be used quite a bit from now until the end of the build for staining, applying of the epoxy, and varnishing of the model. (The picture was taken earlier in the build).

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 07:04 AM
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The next order of business is the coloring of the mahogany hull planking. Now you can opt for the natural color of the mahogany or staining of the wood with an endless number of colors. Most Gar Wood boats run in the dark brown to reddish brown line of colors, with either natural, very dark walnut, or black covering boards and King Planks. Since the real Miss Behave was available to copy from, we matched the colors as closely as possible with commercially available colors to help the modeler with both availability and price.

If you are going to use the natural color of the mahogany with out staining, then the only color you would need is either dark walnut, or black for the covering boards and King Plank. The paints we used for staining the wood were purchased and the local craft store (A.C. MOORE or MICHAELS), in their acrylic paints section and sold under the name FOLK ART paints by PLAID.

Since we opted for duplicating the colors of the original Miss Behave, we will have to bleach out all of the mahogany planking and deck with a 2 part (A & B), self neutralizing bleach used for bleaching out real wood floors. After letting the bleach dry out over night, we lightly sanded by hand with 240 grit sand paper to smooth any raised grain from the bleaching process.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 07:08 AM
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After testing a number of colors of acrylic paint on scrapes of the sanded mahogany veneer, we settled on Folk Art #945, Maple Syrup, for staining the hull and deck planking, and #1640, Licorice (black), for the covering boards and King Plank.

The acrylic paints used for staining have to be thinned with water at a ratio of 1to 1 for coloring the mahogany, which can be pre mixed in a plastic margarine tub with a snap lid, ahead of time.

The hull was stained in sections starting with the bottom of the hull. Working from the center line of the hull to the chine on one side at a time, the stain was applied with a disposable brush to the bottom of the hull, let it set for 3 minutes, and then wiped down with paper towels. The second side of the bottom of the hull was then done in the same manner.

Proceed with the staining of the hull sides and transom of the hull in the same manner, of applying the stain, letting it set for 3 minutes, and then wiping it down with paper towels, and then letting it set to dry. Do one side at a time, before moving to the next side of the boat.

Also stain the previously assembled mahogany dash board as well as the two pieces of mahogany cockpit trim (CPT) from laser sheet S10

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 07:14 AM
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If you decided to have the covering boards and the King Plank finished in the uniform hull color you can proceed to start applying the finish to the hull once the stain has dried.

If you decided to stain the covering boards and the King Plank a contrasting darker color, the covering boards and the King Plank must be taped out with painter’s masking tape to protect them from the staining of the plank sections of the deck and hatches. Do a good job and make sure that you have a good seal on the edge of the masking tape where the stain is to be applied. Proceed to stain, wipe down and let dry as before.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 07:17 AM
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The covering boards and King Plank tapes can now be removed, and the just stained planked deck sections on the deck as well as the hatches must be taped out to protect then from the contrasting stain of the Dark Walnut or Black stain to be applied to the covering boards and King Plank.

When staining the covering boards and King Plank, the color we chose was Folk Art #1640 Licorice (black). The other option was Dark Walnut stain. When applying the acrylic paints for the covering boards and King Plank, DO NOT THIN OUT THE PAINTS, but after brushing them on, carefully wipe them off with the paper towels. Once the paint has dried, we can proceed with the finishing of the model.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 03:38 PM
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With all the boat parts now stained, you can proceed to start applying the build up of the finish coats to the hull. They will be done in sections, with each being taped out with the painter’s masking tape and news paper to prevent runs on the adjacent sides, which would have to be sanded out after. The first coats of finish will be of epoxy finishing resin (Z-Poxy by Pacer), thinned out with a couple of caps full of Xylene thinner. This thinned out epoxy will act as a penetrating resin and will lock in the final color of the stained wood.

The first sections to be taped out and coated are the deck of the hull, the separate engine hatch and rear deck hatch. Coat in the entire deck and hatches surfaces, as well as the mahogany dash board and the surfaces of the cockpit trim boards. Once the epoxy is dry remove the masking tapes and news paper from the hull sides and transom.

Now turn the hull upside down on the cardboard box and tape out the sides of the hull 1/2” below the chine lines and the transom of the hull with painter’s tape and newspaper. Before coating the bottom of the hull make sure that the propeller and rudder stuffing boxes are still plugged with the soften candle wax. Now mix another batch of the thinned out epoxy finishing resin and coat the bottom of the hull. Once the epoxy has set up remove the tapes and newspaper.

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Old Feb 17, 2011, 03:41 PM
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With the deck and bottom of the hull already coated in, the tape out for one side of the hull is next. Mask out 1/2” in from the shear on the deck of the hull with masking tape and newspaper. On the bottom of the hull mask in 1/2” from the chine with masking tape and newspaper. At the stem post mask in 1/4” from the point of the stem post on the opposite side of the hull and at the transom mask in from the side of the hull 1/4” with the masking tape and newspaper. Now stand the hull in the cardboard box were you cut out to hold the hull sitting on its side. The hull is now ready to be coated in with the thinned out epoxy finishing resin, overlapping the deck, bottom and the transom.

After the epoxy has set up on the side of the hull, remove the masking tape and newspaper from the hull. Proceed to tape out the opposite side of the hull in the same manner as the first side was done. Once taped out, mix another batch of thinned out epoxy finishing resin and coat in the second side of the hull.

When the resin has set on the second side, remove the masking tape and news paper from the hull. The last side to be taped out with the masking tape and newspaper is the transom. Mask out the transom with the masking tape 1/4” on the sides, deck and the bottom of the hull. Mask out the cut out on the deck where the rear hatch fits in so no resin gets into the hatch space. With the hull standing on its nose in a garbage can, so that the transom is level and parallel to the floor, coat in the transom with the thinned out epoxy resin.

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