Before continuing with the build the over hanging covering boards should be trimmed and block sanded true with the mahogany side hull planking and with the balsa sub planking of the transom.

The entire bottom and sides of the hull can be block sanded with 120, then 180 grit sand paper in preparation for the final sanding later in the build.

On the center line of the deck measure from the back of frame 3 face forward 4 3/8” and place a pencil mark. At that mark drill a 1/4” diameter hole for the bow light wire to come thru later in the build.

Remove the 3/4” wide mahogany King Plank from laser sheet S10. This plank will run the entire length of the hull, but measured and cut for the front deck, engine hatch, cowl deck, and rear hatch. Always pencil mark the butting plank ends when measuring and cut the running plank so as to keep the grain of the wood running true. Start the run of the King Plank by marking and fitting the end butting into the two covering boards using the parallel lines which have been drawn on both sides of the center line for location.

Once a good fit is achieved butting the covering board tape in place and mark were the King plank crosses over the back of frame #3 at the hatch opening. Also mark the location of the 1/4” drilled hole for the light wire which will be drilled on the center line of the King Plank. Remove the tapes and cut the King plank at the frame 3 mark. Mark both sides of the cut King plank with a pencil mark so that they will be in the same position when they are glued to the sub decking later.

Now with the cut end of the King Plank set and taped in location on the front of the engine hatch, mark where the plank crosses over the back end of the engine hatch. Remove the King Plank and cut at the marks and again mark with a pencil the matching ends of the cut plank for later placement when gluing down.

The third piece of the King Plank will run from the front of frame 5 to where the sub planking ends for the cockpit. The last piece of the King Plank will be running down the center of the rear hatch. It will run from the front to rear of the sub planking. Mark and cut as you have done with the pieces before.

Once all the pieces of the King Plank have been fit and cut, you can proceed to mix a batch of 12 minute epoxy glue, and spread the glue where marked on the sub planking for the King Plank. Take care and do not let the epoxy glue run down into the space between the frame and the engine hatch. If need be glue sparingly by the engine hatch opening, you can glue it, if necessary, with medium CA glue later when the hatch is cut free from the hull. Now tape all the parts of the King Plank down in position on the sub decking with masking tape. Wipe up any epoxy that squeezes out the sides of the King Plank.

Once the king planking has been glued in position you can start with the caulking and planking of the deck. You will be using both Thin CA, and Medium CA glues when doing the deck. The thin CA glue will be used when gluing the caulking strips in place by wicking glue under the strips. The medium CA glue will be used by running a bead of glue down under the planking as it is laid in position against the caulking strips. (Note: the reason for using the two glues is that the medium CA glue will not penetrate thru the mahogany decking like the thin CA glue does, there by causing problems when staining the hull later after sanding)
Start with the fitting of the caulking strips (wide side) running down the sides of the covering boards starting at the bow. Cut the end of the strip at an angle to conform to the side of the Kin Plank. Holding the strip in position, start wicking the thin CA glue under the strip every inch or so as you progress down the side of the covering board. Since the caulking strips are only 14 inches long, it will take 3 strips to run the length of the covering board. The last piece of caulking strip can be cut 1/8” past the transom. Do the same on the opposite sides covering board after fitting the angle cut for the King Plank.
The next runs of caulking strips will run down the sides of the King Plank on both sides. They will have to be angle cut to butt against the caulking strips installed against the covering boards at the bow and run back to the hatch opening and cut flush with the back of frame 3. The remaining strips will be fit to the sides of the King Plank as it crosses the engine hatch, then from the front of frame 5 to end of the sub planking, and then the rear hatch.

Now we start our first mahogany deck plank from the bundle of 1/4” wide mahogany deck planking. The planking is 36” long, so when we start a plank run, we always keep the same side up and continue the plank run from the cut end, as we did with the King Plank. (Note: This is done to keep the grain of the plank run uniform) Fit the end of the plank with an angle cut to butt against the caulking joint at the bow. Once fit tape in position with a piece of masking tape and mark were it crosses over the back of frame 3. Remove the tape and cut the plank where marked and then proceed with the plank crossing over the engine hatch, where it is marked and cut and then from the front of frame 5 to the back of the sub decking. The last piece will run on the rear hatch.

Once all the pieces are fit, you can start at the bow, gluing the plank down by running a bead of glue down under the center of the plank as you hold the plank tight against the caulking strip against the King Plank. You can use the spray glue accelerator sparingly to help set the glue quicker if needed. The same procedure is used on the opposite side of the King Plank for laying the second plank. This procedure of caulking strip, glued with thin CA glue; mahogany decking, glued with medium CA glue; will continue thru out the planking of the deck.

When planking reaches the engine hatch sides, there will be a transition to full plank length and caulking lines from the covering boards caulking strips to the end of the sub decking for the front of the cockpit. Care must be taken that the caulking line run straight and trimming of the planks may be needed.

The rear deck hatch is another point were a plank may have to be cut for the hatch opening at the sides in order to keep the grain and caulking seams straight. Once the rear hatch and side decks are planked and trimmed and fit so the rear hatch can lift in and out nicely re-install the hatch into the hull for the deck sanding

Once the entire deck has been planked, we can start block sanding the deck with course grit sand paper of 80 grit paper. At first you will be sanding the plastic caulking strips that are standing above the mahogany decking. Work slowly until you start to sand the mahogany planking and then STOP. Change over to 120 grit sand paper to block sand the mahogany and caulking strips down, making sure to sand in the direction of the wood grain until the entire deck is smooth. (NOTE: The use of an electric palm sander will help in sanding for a good finish, but do not sand thru the mahogany planking). The planking and the caulking strips and be trimmed and block sanded true with the transom sub planking at this time.

The mahogany veneer transom must be pre-bent or warped to shape for the transom radius. This is done with the use of a strip of wood approximately 1” thick which will be placed under one end of the transom. Take the mahogany transom and soak it in hot water (running it under the tape for a few minutes), until pliable. Now place the transom’s one side on the 1” high block and place weight on the center of the transom. Let the transom dry over night. The next day the transom will have warped to a radius shape, ready to be glued to the transom sub planking.

The gluing of the transom requires that the hull be standing on it’s nose in a waste paper basket or garbage can so that the transom is parallel and level to the floor. We taped the boat in position in the can so it will not move when we are gluing. Next we mixed a batch of 12 minute epoxy glue and coated the sub planking on the transom as well as the back of the mahogany veneer transom with thin coats of glue. (NOTE: Do not coat the mahogany veneer transom for the top 1/2” in the middle of the transom were the rear hatch will be installed.) Set the over sized mahogany transom in place on the boat so that it over laps the transom all the way around the hull and tape to the hull sides bottom and deck all the way around the transom. We placed additional weights on the transom to make sure it was setting down in the middle with no air gaps.

Let the glue setup and then remove the weights and tapes from the mahogany veneer transom. Check and see if any glue ran into the rear hatch opening at the transom. If so remove with a Xacto knife so that the rear hatch can be reinstalled into the hull.

Carefully trim and block sand the mahogany veneer transom flush with the sides, bottom, and deck of the hulls mahogany planking. Also block sand the surface of the mahogany transom with 120 grit sand paper, remembering to sand only with the grain of the wood. You can also hand sand a slight radius to the sides and the deck of the mahogany transom with 120 grit sand paper.