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Old Feb 12, 2011, 10:23 PM
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With the chine cuts done, the glued excess mahogany planking can be pried off the sub planking to make ready for the first plank of the mahogany side planking.

The first plank of the side planking will again start by overhanging the transom by a 1/2” and being taped in position on the side of the hull with masking tape. The plank will over lap the mahogany bottom planking, following the chine line. Tape the plank every 3” or so. The plank will make a smooth transition from lapping the bottom planking to butting the bottom planking at the seventh bottom plank and then to the point of the stem post. Mark the bottom edge of the plank with a pencil on the sub planking for a reference line for gluing. Remove the tapes for the plank, and start gluing the plank down with the medium CA glue starting at the transom and working forward, 3” at a time, all the way to the stem post. Once glued in position trim and block sand the plank flush with the sub planking on the opposite side of the hull. This will allow for the over lap of the next mahogany plank from the opposite side.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 10:27 PM
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The first plank of the opposite side of the hull is done in the exact same manner and procedure as the first. After the plank is glued in position, it is trimmed and block sanded true with the surface of the first plank on the opposite side of the hull.

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 12, 2011 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2011, 10:33 PM
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The third plank will have its back sanded edge butting the second plank and running from the transom to the stem post. Tape in position and mark the bottom edge of the plank for your gluing reference line, and then remove the tapes and glue in position with the medium CA glue. Again, the plank will be trimmed and block sanded flush with the sub planking on the opposite side of the stem post as before. The planking will continue this way up the sides of the hull, alternating the lap joint as you go. Note: the reason we alternate the lap joint at the bow is to keep the sharp stem line straight with less chance of the stem going off to one side.

We continue the planking in this manor for eight planks on both sides of the hull and then stop. We do not want to plank all the way to the shear line until the decking is installed.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 10:39 PM
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The hull can now be cut loose from the building board using a razor saw or a hack saw blade. Cut the feet of all the frames and the stem post free, and right the hull.

Using a razor saw, cut all the feet of the frames and the stem post flush with the top of the shears and then block sand smooth.

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Old Feb 13, 2011, 12:16 AM
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Whoa! Somebody's been busy!!! Looks nice so far!
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 01:35 AM
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I'm watching this build.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 10:32 AM
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From laser sheet S1, remove the engine hatch frames (EHF), and install them in their slots in hull frames #3, 4, and 5. Glue them in the frames with medium CA glue on the outside of the engine frames.

Using a 1/8” x 1/4” basswood batten, measure, cut and glue in position in back the eng hatch frames, stiffeners from, from frame #3 to frame #5. With a razor saw cut out hull frame #4, flush with the insides of the engine hatch frames.

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Old Feb 13, 2011, 10:37 AM
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Now with a set of flat nose pliers break out the laser cut and marked (NG) sections of frame #4, next to the keel. Also break out the lite plywood keel doublers where they were laser cut and marked (NG). This will allow access for the motor mount board and clearance for the motor universal joint. Clean up any ragged edges with a Xacto knife and sand paper.

At this point of the build, vacuum out the inside of the hull in preparation for resin coating the interior of the hull. We used epoxy resin (Z-Poxy) thinned out with Xylene to make a penetrating resin to coat the entire interior of the hull and frame work. This will not only water proof the wood but also acts as a bonding agent for gluing all the balsa sub planking to the frame work of the hull. Also locate the motor mount board (1/4” x 2” x 3 1/2” ply wood) and coat it with the thinned resin as well.


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Last edited by frankg; Feb 13, 2011 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:05 AM
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At this point in the build if the boat is going to be used for radio control and the optional operating running light package is to be installed, the wiring for the hidden radio antenna as well as the lights must be run thru the hull frame work. The holes for running the antenna were laser cut into the frames under the left shear frame from frame #7 thru frame #1 and then across frame #1 to the hole on the opposite side of the frame #1. The antenna wire is included in the kit. String the wire thru the holes in the frames starting at frame #7and ending across the front of frame #1 and thru the hole on the opposite side, then glue the end of the wire with medium CA glue in the hole. At the transom coil the excess wire and tape off until later in the build.

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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:39 AM
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frankg,

Congratulations on your new kit release, I can see a lot of time and effort went into planning this model. I am sure this kit will be a success for you. Looking forward to the finished model.

Ed
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 01:43 PM
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yes.....a true work of art.....
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 03:11 PM
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66. The hook up wire for the running lights is included in the Optional Light Package #708L, which must be purchased separately. The two conductor hook up wire will be strung thru the laser cut holes in the frames under the right shear frame. Start stringing the wire thru all the frames starting with the back of frame #7 thru frame #2. The wire will then cross the front of frame #2 and pass back thru the first hole in the top of the frame and lace back thru the next hole. Pull thru 6” of wire to allow for soldering of the lights after the deck is in place.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 04:22 PM
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Before any building of the decking can take place you must coat the undersides of the sub decking as well as the bottom side of the deck battens with a thinned epoxy penetrating resin for water proofing. Once installed on the hull it will be next to impossible to do. Remove all of the laser marked sub decking parts from laser sheets S7, S8, and S9. With the laser marked sides down coat the back sides of all the parts with the epoxy. Also at the same time coat one side of the deck battens (1/8” x 3/4” x 36” hard balsa), with the resin.

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Old Feb 13, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Once the resin has dried, take one of the deck battens and measure and fit to the deck frames from the stempost to flush with the back of frame #3. Also fit and cut the battens on both sides of the center batten running from flush with the back of frame #3, forward to be let in to the shear frames.

From the parts package #708-11, remove the steering column hanger bracket and install it in the laser cut holes from the front of frame #6 and bend over and glue the ends coming thru the back of the frame with medium CA glue.

Three deck battens will be run between flush with the front of frame #5 to flush with the back of frame #6. (Note: the picture was taken of the prototype model before the design of the three deck battens).

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Last edited by frankg; Feb 19, 2011 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 04:33 PM
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From laser sheet S1 remove the left and right rear hatch frames (RHFL, RHFR). Now cut the 1/8” x 3/16” x 6” basswood batten material in half for two 3” long pieces. Glue the 1/8” thick side of the batten flush to the bottom of the rear hatch frames where laser marked on the frames with medium CA glue. Trim the excess batten material from the battens so the frames will slip into the slots between the transom and frame #7. Once fit, glue the frames in with medium CA glue. (Note: The prototype model had the batten material added later in the build.)

Now using the 1/8” x 1/4” basswood batten material fit and cut the hatch stiffeners in their slots on the out sides of the rear hatch frames. Glue in place with medium CA glue.

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