HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
The sub planking will continue in the same manner to the transom allowing only for the rudder stuffing box hole in the keel to be cut in.


frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:33 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
The bottom sub planking continues forward toward the bow in the same manner as before with the bottom planking ending flush with the front of frame #1.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Feb 12, 2011 at 05:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:41 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
The edge of the stem post on both sides of the center line must be planked with short pieces of the sub planking to bring the height of the stem post even with the bottom and side sub planking already on the frame work. The planking will be trimmed and sanded flush with the sides of the stem post.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:47 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
Due to the sharp entry at the stem post knee, solid balsa blocking will be used instead of planking for easy of forming the concave section of the bottom as well as for added strength. The blocking is made up of 4 pieces of laser cut 3/8” balsa on both sides of the stem post. Assemble the two sets of blocking, (one left side and one right side); from laser sheet S15, with medium CA glue.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:20 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
Now glue the assembled right side blocking (when viewing the stem post), and glue it in position with medium CA glue against the side of the stem post, against frame #1, and sitting on the laminated chine.

The left side blocking is glued in position against the stem post in the same manner as the right side was done.





frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:25 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
With the stem post blocking now glued in place you can now start ruff carving with a Xacto knife, the shaping of the concave portion of the stem post. Go slowly using the side planking surface and bottom planking surface as reference guides. DO NOT try to carve down to the planking surfaces, but rather stay 1/8” or so away from the surface and then proceed to used 80 grit sand paper to finish shaping the blocks in.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:30 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
Now moving back to the transom, we will start the frame work for the transom radius. From laser cut sheets S5 and S6, remove all of the radius transom timbers (total 12 pieces). On a flat waxed papered surface glue two radius timbers together with medium CA glue to make a 3/8” thick radius timber. Do this with all the radius timbers making a total of 6, 3/8” thick timbers. Do the same with the two straight 3/8” wide x 3/16” thick transom timbers to make one 3/8” x 3/8” x 12” timber.

On the transom center line, line up the radius timbers center line marks and start gluing the radius timbers were indicted by the laser etched line on the transom.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
There will be two radius timbers in the center on the transom, two at the chine line, and two at the shear line.

With all the radius timbers glued in place, measure and cut for the vertical transom timbers, from the 3/8” x 3/8” x 12” timber, to go in-between the radius timbers where laser etched marked on the transom. Once all the transom timbers are glued in place, block sand all the radius timbers true to the radiuses, and sand the them also true to the bottom and side sub planking of the hull. Note: The picture was taken of the prototype hull with only 5 radius timbers used. The kit was increased to six timbers for better gluing surface.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:40 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
The transom sub planking is done with 4” wide 3/32” hard balsa sheet, with the planking grain running vertical. This will allow the balsa sub planking to bend easily to conform to the radius transom shape. The first piece will be glued on the center line of the left side vertical transom blocking to the center of the right side vertical blocking. Then two more pieces will be butt glued to the sides of the first piece of sub planking and the transom timbers. Once all the sub planking was glued, trim and block sand true with the bottom and side sub planking of the hull. All gluing was done with medium CA glue.


frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:43 PM
ADM. 48TH FLEET
oxnard ca.
Joined Jul 2007
1,275 Posts
i'm really enjoying this.....

joe
desron48 is offline Find More Posts by desron48
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 08:55 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
All of the mahogany planking of the hull will be done with the 1/2” wide mahogany veneer planking. All of the planks will be back sanded on the butting edge side of the plank. This means that the bottom butting edge of the plank will be sanded off at a slight angle to allow the plank to have a tight joint against the butting plank. (see DWG 1)

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 09:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
All planking will start with a 1/2” over hanging the transom. Place a mark on the plank marking the edge of the transom. The first plank will have its edge on the center line of the hull and be taped in position every 3” or so with masking tape working forward toward the bow. As you come to the stem post the plank will start to run off and cross over the center line. Do not force the plank. Let it run off and tape it in position. Now with a sharp pencil, mark where center line crosses thru the plank, on the plank. Also mark where the plank crosses over the propeller and rudder stuffing box holes. Before removing the masking tapes draw a line down the out side edge of the plank onto the sub planking as your guide for gluing. Un-tape the plank and with a Xacto knife cut the plank where the center line crossed thru it at the stem post. At the marks where the propeller and rudder holes were marked, measure in 3/16” from the edge of the plank and draw a line between the marks. With the Xacto knife, cut out the 3/16” clearance for the stuffing boxes.

With the first plank fit and cut out, proceed to glue the plank in position using medium CA glue, lining up the plank with transom mark and the center line of the hull. Only glue 3 or 4 inches of the plank down at a time. The use of the CA accelerator can be used but only after the glue has been allowed a few seconds to set up. (To spray the accelerator to quickly after applying the CA will weaken the glue bond).

Once the first plank has been glued in place, block sand the cut end of the plank flush with the opposite sides sub planking so that the second mahogany plank can over lap the first. After backing off the edge of the next planks butting edge, proceed to tape down and mark out the plank as was done with the first plank. At the stem post where the planks run off, over the center line and the first plank, mark the center line on the plank for cutting with the Xacto knife. Before removing the masking tapes, mark out the propeller and rudder stuffing boxes as before. Remove the tapes and cut the end of the plank where marked for the center line butt joint at the stem post. Measure in 3/16” from the side of the planks edge between the marks for the propeller stuffing box and the rudder stuffing box and cut out with the Xacto knife. Glue the plank in position with the medium CA glue. With the first two planks glued down, the hardest fitting of the planking has been completed.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 09:08 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
The next runs of planking are straight runs from the transom to off the stem post. Always remember to back sand the next planks butting edge to be glued in. also remember that once the plank is glued in, that it has to be trimmed back and block sanded to the surface of the sub planking of the opposite side of the hull so the next plank can over lap it at the stem post. Also as the planking proceeds for the first seven planks on each side of the hull, they will start to cross over the chine line of the hull. They must be glued in over lapping the chine by at least 1/2", so they can be trimmed later for a perfect fit with the side planking.

The rest of the bottom planking can be glued in place and trimmed and block sanded flush with the side sub planking of the hull.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 09:12 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
Now using a 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood batten as a flexible straight edge, start taping the batten to the side of the hull with its top edge flush with the bottom of the hull, starting at the transom and working forward, taping every 3” or so. Following the chine line forward, tape the batten off crossing over the mahogany bottom planking that was glued over the chine to the side of the hull.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2011, 09:19 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,784 Posts
With a ball point pen, mark the top edge of the batten as it crosses over the mahogany bottom planking. Both sides of the hull must be marked out with the batten in the same way.

With the batten removed, you will now have your cut line for cutting the bottom planking of the butt joint with the mahogany side planking.

How you cut the bottom planking for the butt joint is up to you. It can be done with a sharp Xacto knife by scoring the mahogany planks a number of times for a clean cut thru, or with a motor-tool with a circle saw blade. We did the prototype model with the motor-tool.

frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Legend Model Boats "Thunderbolt" Kit Review P. Tritle Scale Boats 122 Feb 28, 2013 03:06 PM
New Product New kit releases for 2011 from legend model boats frankg Scale Boats 62 Jan 04, 2012 11:46 AM
Discussion Legend Model Boats Lyman? Aerominded Scale Boats 19 Nov 19, 2006 09:34 AM
Mini-Review The "Cavalier" from Legend Model Boats -- Kit Review P. Tritle Scale Boats 85 Apr 24, 2006 08:14 PM