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Old Feb 12, 2011, 04:56 PM
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The third chine batten will be fitted at the stem post as was done with the first with the angle cut butt joint. Once fit it will be glued to the first chine batten at each frame, making sure that the batten is laying flat against the fist batten. The fourth chine batten will be fitted at the butt joint at the stem post as before, and glued to the second chine batten at each frame making sure that it is laying flat against the second chine batten. You can now go back a wick in thin CA glue between the laminating chine battens between the frames on both side of the hull.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 04:59 PM
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The finished chines and keel assembly and now be cut and sanded flush with the transom.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:03 PM
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The side battens are made with the 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood battens. The notch in the stem post must be mortified to allow the out side face of the batten to be flush with the centerline of the stem post where it comes to a point, the same as the chins, but only the depth of one batten. The batten will also have to be angle cut to allow for the butt joint with the opposite side batten.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Once the battens have been fit, they can be glued in to their notches in the frames from the stem post to the transom.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:17 PM
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The bottom battens are made with the same 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” basswood batten material. They will run from flush with the front of frame #1 to the transom in their respective notches on both side of the keel. They will be glued in with medium CA glue. Once glued in the bottom and side battens can be trimmed flush with the transom face.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:26 PM
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With the basic frame work completed, the task of faring the frame work for the planking is next. The stempost must be shaped sanded true with the side and bottom runs of the hull, this is done by block sanding the stempost to a point while holding the block to the shear and the chine when sanding.

The same procedure is done with the bottom fairing at the stem post, with the sanding block held against the chine and the foot of the stem and keel while sanding the point on the stem.


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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:29 PM
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The entire frame work is block sanded true with particular attention to the bottom planning surface of the hull. Using a straight edge check the bottom from the transom forward, parallel to the keel to make sure that there are no voids or hollows between frames.


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Old Feb 12, 2011, 05:57 PM
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The planking of the hull is done with the 3/32” x 5/8” x 36” hard balsa sub planking. The planking is started the same way on both sides of the hull, but is done one side at a time. The front edge of the first plank starts at the shear, at the front of frame #3 and runs diagonally to the chine at the front of frame #4. All planking is glued using the medium CA glue. The planks will be glued at the shears, the center batten, chine, and what ever portion of the frames the planks cross. The plank will be cut 1/4” past the top of the chine.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:01 PM
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The next plank will but up against the back of the first plank and the frame work will be marked were the back of the second plank will cross the shear, center batten, chine and any frames. The frame work is then glued were the plank will lay and the plank is then butt against the back of the first plank and held in position until the glue sets. Again the plank is trimmed 1/4” past the top of the chine. This routine of marking gluing and setting of the planking will continue to the transom in the same manner. The hull will start to tumble home at the transom with no problem in the planking.
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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Once the planking has reached the transom, the process continues from the first plank laid to the stem post. The only difference in the planking to the stem post is that the planking will start to concave, as it proceeds to the stem post. When gluing the planks in make sure that the plank is glued to the center batten to hold the correct hull shape.


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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:12 PM
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Once all the sub planking has is installed on one side of the hull, you must fair the planking at the stem post with the plank run from the opposite side. This is done by simply block sanding the planking as you did when fairing in the stem post. You can check the trueness with one of the planks laid across the frames to the stem post.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:15 PM
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The planking can continue on the second side of the hull in the same manner and procedure as the first, starting with the first diagonal plank at frame#3 to frame #4. The planking will continue to the transom, and then again start and go to the stem post. At the stem post this time the planking will continue over the first sides sub planking. Once planked the second side sub planking can be block sanded flush with the first side sub planking.

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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:18 PM
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With both side of the hull sub planked, the planking must be trimmed and block sanded flush with the bottom of the hull at the chines up to frame#1 on both sides of the hull. The planking from frame #1 to the stem post will be cut with a Xacto knife flush with the top of the chines.


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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:22 PM
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The bottom sub planking will start with the front edge of the plank on the center line of the keel at frame #4 and going back diagonally to the chine at the front of frame #5. Mark the front and back side of the plank were it crosses the keel, center batten, chine, and any frames. Also mark on the plank where the center line of the keel crosses the front and back edge of the plank or the angle butt joint at the keel. Remove the plank and angle cut from the center line marks on the front edge and back edge of the plank. Using medium CA glue on the marked out frame work, glue the first bottom plank in position.


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Old Feb 12, 2011, 06:25 PM
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The second bottom sub plank will be butting the first on the center line of the keel and running back to the front of frame #5 as the first plank was. Again making were the plank is crossing the frame work for the gluing area and the laying out the angle cut for the butt joint at the keel. This procedure is carried out the same, first one side, and then the other, back to the shaft log cut out in the keel. At the cut out, the planking will start at the side of the keel hole and proceed to the chine. Once past the shaft log hole, the planking will again start at the center line of the keel butt joint.

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