Re post 146 I will ask again can someone measure the tailplane angle against the centreline of the fuselage please.

Originally Posted by olmod

Re post 146 I will ask again can someone measure the tailplane angle against the centreline of the fuselage please.

olmod

It was too dificult to acurately determine the fuselage CL so instead I have used two easily recognisable points on the fuselage to establish a reference line. They were the rear bottom of the wing cut out and the bottom of the rudder horn.

Ken

Hi!
My Ventus has arrived now and I wanted to show the kit content's.

The only things to do before flying is to glue vert stab, attach wings, install RX. Then it's just to grab a battery and leave for the field. I will do that later on today so I'll get back to you with a maiden flight report.

The installation of servos and other stuff seems good. The servos provided are HXT900 except for the LG servo which I can't see the label on.

The supplied folder prop is 10x7 and it was quite unbalanced. I'm replacing the folder hub with one I have on the shelf.

Originally Posted by kensp

olmod

It was too dificult to acurately determine the fuselage CL so instead I have used two easily recognisable points on the fuselage to establish a reference line. They were the rear bottom of the wing cut out and the bottom of the rudder horn.

Ken

Thanks Ken I can make corrections now.

Originally Posted by kalleman

Hi!
My Ventus has arrived now and I wanted to show the kit content's.

The only things to do before flying is to glue vert stab, attach wings, install RX. Then it's just to grab a battery and leave for the field. I will do that later on today so I'll get back to you with a maiden flight report.

The installation of servos and other stuff seems good. The servos provided are HXT900 except for the LG servo which I can't see the label on.

The supplied folder prop is 10x7 and it was quite unbalanced. I'm replacing the folder hub with one I have on the shelf.

When you get a moment could you measure the length of the alloy tubes sticking out of the wings please, I know mine are to short.

Originally Posted by olmod

The tail skid puts pressure on the area under the front edge of the taifin, you can afford to put a decent size c/f (1/2'')tube right down to the end and the extra weight will work in your favour when getting the cg right.
I use canopy glue for all the jobs just perforate the skin it will hold like heck and you can use water to clean up while fresh.

1/2 inch tube? That sounds like a huge tube.

Would it better to just reinforce the weak area with Glass Fibre wrapped around on the outside? Or a long flat CF strip (I have 3mm width x 1 mm thick) sandwiched between the 2 fuselage halves on the bottom edge, with the width vertical. Would look nicer than the CF wrap.

I also probably would remove the hump you mentioned.

Originally Posted by DL8698

1/2 inch tube? That sounds like a huge tube.

Would it better to just reinforce the weak area with Glass Fibre wrapped around on the outside? Or a long flat CF strip (I have 3mm width x 1 mm thick) sandwiched between the 2 fuselage halves on the bottom edge, with the width vertical.

On several foamies I have used Carbon Fiber Tows sandwiched in between the fuselage halves when glueing the fuselage together.

I think that the problem of rear fuselage breakage is caused by the unequal lengths of the fuselage halves putting a weak point just in front of the fin. This is just where you want the fuselage to be strongest. I plan to put some CF reinforcement through this join but I have not decided exacty how to do it yet. When I do I will post some photos. I have been too busy building a Hobby King 55 inch span SE-5a.

Ken

Would this plane make a good replacement/upgrade from this one?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8372

ASW28 Slope Soaring HD (12 min 56 sec)

?

My ASW is needing retired. My first plane, but it's just a little beat up by now.

Originally Posted by venquessa

Would this plane make a good replacement/upgrade from this one?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8372
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_SCLbNnrkU
?

My ASW is needing retired. My first plane, but it's just a little beat up by now.

Thats a nice slope- great landing area

My Ventus arrived yesterday evening while I was at work. Went home at 2 am and quickly opened the box.

The foam was very nicely moulded, so smooth. However on examining every part more closely, found the "built in" weak point at the fuselage fin base is half cracked. Beats the hell out of me why HK did not choose a point further forward to have the production break. (didn't notice the pun till I typed it in!)

Wonder if the Towerpro 2409 with 2s battery is powerful enough? Originally wanted to use my Dualsky XM2830CA-12 but just found out the smallest 3s battery I have is 1750mah which I think is too heavy.

I have 2 questions regarding the wing joining.

1. With the Alum wing joiner in the middle holding the 2 Alum wing spars, does the CF rod still contribute anything to the strength of the joint?

2. Can I use the supplied CF rod in the Front spar instead, and rely solely on the Alum joiner for the rear spar?

An idea I am considering for holding the wings together is this:
I won't use the supplied Alum joiner, but instead I epoxy small tongues on the ends of both the Alum spars, so that they overlap each other when the wings are inserted into the fuselage.

Then all I need is to shove a tight fitting pin through concentric holes in the tongues. For this option I will have to rely on the CF rod in the Alum spars to provide all the strength. But the CF rod looks a bit skinny.

If this idea is not good, then I will use the original Alum joiner, but I will make tiny dimples on the Alum spar ends where the grub screw sits, so that the grub screw need not be tightened too much, risking thread stripping.

After taking a close look at the wings, I find that the Alum rear spars are only 16 cm long. I don't think that contributes much to strength of the joint. So I will be using the supplied CF rod in the front spar where it fits perfectly. The front spars run nearly all the way to the wing tips, so that's where I want the wing joint strength to be. I consider the rear Alum spar merely as a way of preventing the wings from detaching during flight.

I have 2 ideas in mind for the retractable gear piece. Either I detach the wheel and the retract mechanism from the platform and just fit the platform (this still gives me the option of fitting in the wheel mechanism later), or I don't fit the entire piece. Don't really think I need wheel for belly landing on grass. This will help to reduce weight.

I am still waiting for anyone to comment on my choice of the Towerpro 2409 motor before I start assembling the fuselage.

I bought the early version of this Ventus from HK and it has been sitting in my workshop while building other gliders, Got a used F3J 3m, old but good quality, I fly regularly my full house Easy Glider pro and standard Radian. After following this thread and having another look at this glider in the box, I have decided that it was a waist of servos and sold it yesterday. Good luck guys, happy flying!
Dan

Originally Posted by DL8698

After taking a close look at the wings, I find that the Alum rear spars are only 16 cm long. I don't think that contributes much to strength of the joint. So I will be using the supplied CF rod in the front spar where it fits perfectly. The front spars run nearly all the way to the wing tips, so that's where I want the wing joint strength to be. I consider the rear Alum spar merely as a way of preventing the wings from detaching during flight.

I have 2 ideas in mind for the retractable gear piece. Either I detach the wheel and the retract mechanism from the platform and just fit the platform (this still gives me the option of fitting in the wheel mechanism later), or I don't fit the entire piece. Don't really think I need wheel for belly landing on grass. This will help to reduce weight.

I am still waiting for anyone to comment on my choice of the Towerpro 2409 motor before I start assembling the fuselage.

I fly the Ventus with a Turnigy 2830-1050 on 2s and 11x8 prop and climb at about 30 degrees, so I think your motor will do it. Put the cf-rod in the front spar, or better look for a tube which fits over the front spar to reinforce the wing.

Originally Posted by delfin

I fly the Ventus with a Turnigy 2830-1050 on 2s and 11x8 prop and climb at about 30 degrees, so I think your motor will do it. Put the cf-rod in the front spar, or better look for a tube which fits over the front spar to reinforce the wing.

Thanks for info about my motor. I will go ahead and use it.

I think the main load bearing spar is the front spar, which goes almost to the wing tips, not the rear spar, which I don't really consider is a spar, being only 16 cm long for a wing half length of 1m. So my cf rod is going to the front spar. I will fix a tube to the fuselage for the cf rod to fit into to strengthen the rod at the center area inside the fuselage.

I will use a tube, maybe brass or copper, to replace the supplied alum wing joiner. I'll epoxy one end of my replacement joiner to one wing alum spar end, then drill a small hole through this tube and the other alum spar end, and just use a pin to lock the wings together.

I really don't like to fix the wings with the grub screws.

I agree about the alloy tube /grubscrew idea could have been done better with a nylon shear pin and sleeve assembly.
bigger allerons and elevator would have been nice.