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Old May 17, 2011, 12:20 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Straight Waterlines

Jeepers, The key to getting a straight waterline is all in how the line is laid out. With all the odd curves and angles on a hull, it's virualy impossible to eyeball a straight line, so I made the tool here just for this purpose.

To lay it out, block the hull on the building board upside down so that the distance from the board to the waterline at the bow and stern are equal. Then set the pencil height to match and simply drag the base of the tool around the hull leaving the pencil mark on the surface. Then mask and paint and you're in business.

PAT
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Old May 17, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Getting Started On the Cabin

Framing the cabin began with cutting out all the parts from the printed sheets, then gluing the upper and lower side sections together. The sides were pinned to the hull and the top formers fitted and glued in place. Much to my surprise, the parts fit quite well. Only minor trimming in width was required.
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Old May 17, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Adding the Aft Top

The cabin top is supposed to be done with 1/16 balsa sheeting, but I've been down that road before, and it never has worked out all that well. So, this time I went with 3/16 sheeting to get the required height in the curve and rough sanded it to shape.
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Old May 17, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Adding the Main Cabin Top

This time I went with 3/32 sheet in the middle and 3/16 on the sides. The formers were reshaped for the flat sections, then once glued in place were carved and roughtly shaped.

The forward section was laminated from a combination of kit parts and balsa sheet to fill the area forward of the forward most former. The blocks were carved to contour and then the roof was rough sanded to final shape.

I also replaced the vertical window framing with 1/8 X 1/4 balsa since as designed, the grain rain horizontally and was far to easy to break. Then the windshield framing was added to complete the basic assembly.

Next up will be to bend the curves into the aft rails to contour with the deck, and then extend the rear most former down to the lower deck level, then build up the rear deck details in the hull and make it all fit.

PAT
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Old May 19, 2011, 08:56 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Roughing In the Rear Deck

Got the floor laid in and the side planking in yesterday. Then sealed up the cabin with 3 coats of dope. Will prime as soon as the crumby weather breaks and get moving forard on the finish. So far things have gone well on the top side, and the fit was much better then I had expected.

PAT
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Old May 19, 2011, 11:45 AM
Retired for now
Bonita Springs,Fl.
Joined Sep 2007
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That's really looking good Pat. Nice boat to model too. I'll have to try the silkspan on a model now that I've read this thread. Pete
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Old May 20, 2011, 10:55 AM
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Monterey Bay California
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Looking nice, Pat!
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Old May 21, 2011, 05:59 PM
Bob
Metairie, La. USA
Joined May 2010
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle View Post
Jeepers, The key to getting a straight waterline is all in how the line is laid out. With all the odd curves and angles on a hull, it's virualy impossible to eyeball a straight line, so I made the tool here just for this purpose.

To lay it out, block the hull on the building board upside down so that the distance from the board to the waterline at the bow and stern are equal. Then set the pencil height to match and simply drag the base of the tool around the hull leaving the pencil mark on the surface. Then mask and paint and you're in business.

PAT
My version of a waterline machine.. It is tall as I build many different scale and size models.... Note the holes under the wing nut to adjust the pencil in or out depending on the length of the pencil. I always cut off the eraser end to get a tight fit.. Only problem w/building this jig is one needs a router.
Bob
www.ChrisCraftModels.com

PS- love the model and your workmanship.
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Old May 21, 2011, 06:19 PM
Capt. Jack
USA, CA, Petaluma
Joined Oct 2010
321 Posts
This is how I do it



But you way seems more accurate
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Finishing the Cabin

Been busy working on the Owens, but not posting, so figured I'd best get the Thread back up to date.....

The cabin was sealed with Nitrate Dope, then a heavy coat of sandable primer applied. When dry, a coat of spot glazing putty was squeegeed onto the entire surface. The putty was sanded, then re-primed and the last of the flaws fixed individually. Once it was all done, the color coat was sprayed.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 10:55 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Planking the Rear Deck Walls

Mahogany planks were ripped to fit the rear deck walls and glued in place, then sealed with 3 coats of Spar Varnish.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Fitting the Motors and Shafts

The motor mount was built up from lite ply and balsa and the motors glued in place with silicone caulk. The mount was then aligned and glued into the hull. The prop shafts were made up and mounted in the hull and the couplings made up from Robart landing gear air hose and Tygon fuel tubing, secured with Zip-Ties. The wiring was soldered in place and is ready for the ESC to be connected.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 11:04 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Fitting the Windows

Each of the 16 cabin windows were fitted into the openings individually and labeled for their individual locations. Then the final boo-boo's were fixed and the catalized clear coat sprayed on the cabin to complete the assembly. After curing over the long weekend, it's now time to glue the windows in place.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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On the Home Stretch

At this point, the windows need to be glued in place, then the deck fittings can be added. From there it's down to hooking up the sound system and getting the ESC and radio set up, and then off to the pond for the test runs.

PAT
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 11:09 AM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Pat how much do you thin the dope when you apply the silkspan? Tower Hobbies list Dope but it does not say nitrate, where do you purchase your supply?
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Last edited by Gravman; Jul 05, 2011 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Another question
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