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Old Mar 16, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Finishing Up the Hull Planking.

Been working slowly along getting the hull planked. The process was relatively painless using the 1/2" wide balsa planks.

As things progressed it got to the place where adding more while the hull was still on the board was more trouble then it was worth, so pulled it up and finished up the last couple on each side in "mid air", and with the bottom already done, there was no danger in building in a twist once it was off the board.

Then once all the planks were in place, a couple of steelers were added to fill the gaps at the bow and the surface block sanded to level things up. Then a coat of drywall mud was sqweegeed onto the whole thing and set aside to dry. Will get it sanded again and the second coat on a little later this morning.....

PAT
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 11:07 AM
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Making the Hull for Finishing

Got the first coat of putty sandesd and the second application on. Once dry, it was finish sanded and 4 coats of Nitrate dope applied. Next up will be to dope the silkspan on, then will go back inside with a couple coats of thinned Epoxy Resin to seal the wood on the inside.

PAT
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 12:22 PM
Planecrazy in Lodi
Lodi, CA, USA
Joined Apr 2008
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Silkspan? Why not light FG cloth instead? I would think that would add a fair amount of strength and "ding resistance" for very little weight gain or extra work.

Kermit
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planecrazyinlo View Post
Silkspan? Why not light FG cloth instead? I would think that would add a fair amount of strength and "ding resistance" for very little weight gain or extra work.

Kermit
Kermit, There's two major factors involved in the choice of Silkspan and dope over fiberglass. The first is cost. The last time I bought West Systems resin I payed right at $40.00 a quart for the resin and $24.00 for a pint of catalyst. By the time dope is thinned it's about 1/4 the cost. And the cost for cloth the last time I bought was over $8.00 per yard by the time the shipping cost was added. Silkspan is available localy for less then $3.00 per sheet. So all things considered, silkspan and dope is vastly more cost effective in today's world.

But the main thing is that the system works, and has proven itself well over the last 10 years or so on other projects that are still running, and are still dry (Yoda, Orca, Minnow,Chloe, Vrolijkheid, etc.) and requires far less time and effort to apply and finish then glass. And in the giant scheme of things, weight isn't a factor since I always end up adding balast anyway, regardless of how the finish is applied.

PAT
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Sealing the Hull

The hull was sanded and a second coat of putty applied, then sanded again and 4 coats of Nitrate dope applied.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 08:43 AM
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Finishing the Outside Then Back to the Inside

After the dope had dried the surface was lightly sanded to remove the fuzz and a layer of medium weight silkspan was doped on. The silkspan was applied wet so that it would conform to the hull using one piece per side and one for the transom. Once it had dried, 2 coats of dope were applied, then lightly sanded and two more coats applied.

Next, the fore deck was cut away to gain access to the inside of the hull and a coat of thinned West Systems resin was applied to the inside to seal it up and flood any remaining gaps in the planking. Then once that had cured, the deck was glued back in and the glue joint sanded flush.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 08:47 AM
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Fitting the Fore Deck Sheeting

If I read the instructions correctly they wanted the builder to score the fore deck and crack it upwards to create the crown, then sand it to shape. Seams to mee that would stress the hull something awful as the deck became narrower with the rise in the center. Rather then fight it, I decided to add a centerline stringer and a radiused former at the back and sheet the deck with the 1/16 balsa not used to skin the hull. In the end it worked out fine and was truly a painless process.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:06 AM
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Building the Stuffing Boxes

The stuffing boxes were made up from brass tubes with a bushing press fit into the middle with another soldered in each end. A tool was made to drive the middle bushing in, then the ends were soldered up. And with that done, the bearing shafts are ready to install in the hull.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:13 AM
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Mounting the Prop Bearing Tubes in the Hull

The outlets were located and marked on the hull, then cut into the bottom from the outside using a section of sharpened brass tube. A pair of jigging blocks were made up to hold the propper spacing at both ends to fit the tubes into the hull. Then once everything was properly aligned and taped in place the tubes were tack glued in place.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Adding the Struts

With the shafts glued in place the jigs were removed and the struts made up from brass wire. The struts were glued into the hull and soldered to the tubes. Then it was back inside where spacer jigs were made to locate the motors and work out the motor mount plate.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Working Up the Rudders

Before the motor mount was built the rudders were made up from brass wire and sheet. Balsa blocks were glued in place to support the bearing tubes, then drilled and the tubes glued in place and the rudders test fit in the hull.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:27 AM
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Building the Motor Mount Plate

The Motor Mount plate was made up from lite ply and triangle stock and the motors glued in place with silicone caulk. When dry, brass tube spacers were mad up and slipped over the motor shafts. The ptop shafts were slipped into the tubes and the motors connected with the spacer jigs and the mount glued in place. Then support blocks were fitted and glued in place on the top end of the shafts. When the glue had dried, the shafts and spacers were removed.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 09:32 AM
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Finishing Up the Motor Installation

With all the drive gear pretty well roughed in, a slurry of West Systems epoxy and Micro Balloons was mixed up and applied to to prop and rudder shaft mounting points. When done this way there is very little sanding and shaping required to prep the hull for primer and paint.

Next up is to finish coating the hull, then gett it primed and the last of the finish filling done.

PAT
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 10:25 AM
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Nice progress Pat!
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerominded View Post
Nice progress Pat!
Thanks Aero. This really has been a fun process figuring out just about everything "on the fly". The kit itself is pretty crude, and no doubt "dated", but I can see where it's going to build into a pretty nice looking finished model.

PAT
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