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Old Jul 28, 2012, 01:04 PM
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Thanks fellas!!!...

First PLEASE let me say that I wasn't laying blame....In this game you pay your money and take your chances!!!...Mostly disappointed in myself for not asking the questions a proper engineer should ask...

For the very reasons as proven here with your responses is why I didn't jump the gun and cut 'er open...Being a DF guy since the mid 80's I can understand the variables...Without getting into a long drawn out explanation---Different planes react differently to a fan change...The GP Sabre airframe may not allow the GWS/GP fan combo to get "up on step" and unload like the Hawk can...Velocity alone won't make you go fast if the airframe is too draggy...

Going forward with the build as it---I can always make a hatch later...

Kevin
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 03:55 PM
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After wet sanding I applied another light coat of primer...You know the plane is getting slick when you can make primer shine!!!......

Here's a sneak peak and no---I'm not going to get any closer until EVERY flaw is fixed!!!...I do like how somewhat scale the rounded canopy turned out...

Kevin
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 03:58 PM
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Me too!

Fred



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Old Jul 28, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Kevin, it(the Sabre) should have been faster but it wasn't. I'll try swapping out the ESC and see if it improves. Things to consider are the wings, airframe and large intake means it probably needs more static than eflux thrust so a slimmer blade spinning faster won't perform as well in it.

Remember, I have a GWS 3 blade in a 25mm fan flying mine!
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Remember, I have a GWS 3 blade in a 25mm fan flying mine!
Ahhhhh...Didn't know that!!!......

If a plane runs into a wall drag-wise then as you said static thrust will help with vertical but the plane won't be much faster...You know the formula---Drag goes up with the square, blah, blah, blah.......

Sounds to me like I have a hotrod on my hands with speed that will allow the fan to unload to a higher velocity than with the GP Sabre......

As for the testing all I used was a 2S pack...I didn't want to run into a wall with the ESC being a choke point so I went with a 12 amp Turnigy unit rated for 4S...

Kevin
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Don't get me wrong - I just got back from the field and tried some things. I can still do continuous loops with the Sabre on 2S. It felt like I was flying forever on the 300mah I had in there.

How's the paint drying?
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 09:29 PM
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How's the paint drying?
S----L----O----W----L----Y----!!!!.......The humidity is so high that although I'm using a fast dry primer it seems to take forever to dry!!!...If I had used Rustoleum mineral spirits based primer I would still be waiting on the first coat to dry...

I wet sanded the model today and applied another couple of light coats....With primer you should sand off most of it to prevent weight buildup...Between coats I sand so that I can almost see the Depron between coats...Since I've gone to this much trouble I'm not going to quit with the prep work until I feel that it has been done right...After all---A great paint job is mostly from prep work!!!

Hopefully, I've finished the last of the small dent/scratch filling...I'm going with a flat finish so that it won't show as many blemishes as a shiny surface...Since a lot of eyes are on this model I feel that I need to do my best finish-wise to do you and the model justice...I'm not worried about the model flying as yours has proven this to be a great design...I've flown very high wing loaded models so I don't fear this...What I do fear is the model getting out of sight quickly!!!...But I have enough experience to go with what the last inputs my brain says that I made rather than falling for the tricks of what my eyes think that they saw...This has saved many planes from crashing due to falling for what a silhouette looks like rather than what your brain tells you what you just did...

Anyway---Getting it done but slowly!!!......

Kevin
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 11:01 PM
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There is no race here. You should enjoy building and finishing, the time will come soon enough. I often wonder why we work so hard on a finish, when it is going to look fine after a bit of hanger rash anyway! Looks like the power unit is going to be sweet!

Fred
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 11:23 PM
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There is no race here. You should enjoy building and finishing, the time will come soon enough. I often wonder why we work so hard on a finish, when it is going to look fine after a bit of hanger rash anyway! Looks like the power unit is going to be sweet!

Fred
We finish these models the way we do because of pride!!!......It's a reflection of not only your personality but your commitment to the hobby...I really enjoy building---Now, probably more than flying...Did I actually say that???......Yep!!!...

It's also cool when your peers recognize your efforts!!!..I have a few plaques for best finish over the years---All are jets that I've painted...It's all about personal pride...Here are a few examples....

Kevin
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 02:07 AM
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Kevin,

Those are cool. I only entered one airplane contest while working at Lockheed. Had to be a Lockheed plane. Everyone else built plastic models, I did a peanut scale balsa/tissue, of the "Little Dipper", a one off WWII prototype. I had someone in Archives get me some B&W Glossys, and back in 1980's, I put an electric motor in it, a rechargable 3V cell, and a tiny light bulb in the landing light. Prop was from a plastic cup, cut 15 degree angle, and blades glued to a dowel hub (Freeflight stuff) Stayed up all night to finish day before it was due, almost didn't get it done.

When you gave the battery a charge (used 2 'D' cells), flick the micro switch, it would taxi and shine the light. All Radio Shack stuff. Charge jacks were K&S tube, and pins for the male plug. Anyway, the judges thought it was too different, wasn't fair to the other builders. I didn't win first place. They created a new catagory called 'Judges Choice' and I got awarded a Resin Cast SR-71 Display model (from the Lockheed Store of course), a certificate, etc. Best prize awarded though. The B&W's, Cert, and all are stored away somewhere, my oldest boys broke the SR-71 in a pillow fight, Anyway an engineer that was in on the judging said the guys charged her up multiple times and took turns letting it taxi all around the room.

Guess I was doomed, the writing was on the wall. Electric airplanes before I had ever heard of that. I didn't even read model magazines back then. All Radio Shack heavy/low power experimenter parts, but electric none the less. Now look at me.

Sorry Dave! Back to T-45 now.......

Sincerely
Someone else using Fred's RCG account
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:59 PM
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I got some more sanding/priming/sanding done on the T-45...I'm just about ready for paint...While waiting for the primer to dry I made up a 3S battery pack from 240mAh, 25C/45C, G3 Hyperion cells...I believe that any pack that has multiple cells should have a balance tap and I soldered one into my fresh pack...I have had 2S Hyperion packs without balance taps and they got out of balance and puffed...All of my packs with balance taps last twice as long...Once cells get out of balance they only get worse with each discharge/charge...

Here's a pic of my fresh pack...

Kevin
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 11:37 PM
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Actually that battery looks huge compared to your airframe! I guess you won't have much wiggle room. Balance taps are all you said, but might be worth sacrafcing some cells early to lose the weight. But I never weiged a balance tap, so probably isn't so bad.

I had a day!


Fred
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Kevin just an idea. When I use very small 2S and 3S packs I shorten the balance leads to about 10mm and put a 2/3pin header socket on it. Then put the matching pin end on the remains of the balance lead. Either use a polarised header (the polarised connectors used by the micro fliers are perfect) or mark the polarity very prominently.

Just re-attach the balance lead when you charge it. Makes it both lighter and easier to install in tight spots.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
I got some more sanding/priming/sanding done on the T-45...I'm just about ready for paint...While waiting for the primer to dry I made up a 3S battery pack from 240mAh, 25C/45C, G3 Hyperion cells...I believe that any pack that has multiple cells should have a balance tap and I soldered one into my fresh pack...I have had 2S Hyperion packs without balance taps and they got out of balance and puffed...All of my packs with balance taps last twice as long...Once cells get out of balance they only get worse with each discharge/charge...

Here's a pic of my fresh pack...

Kevin
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 11:56 PM
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If I shorten the leads on the balance tap to 10mm I would only save a gram or so...My tap is 22mm and the power lead is 18mm in length....

The battery is TINY!!!...(4S would fit)...The battery gets lost in the T-45 fuselage...(See Fred---My hands aren't as huge as you thought!!!)...As you can see---I have a bit more sanding to do on the tops of the intakes...The primer is shiny due to me just now applying a thin coat of epoxy/micro balloons filler to the area...Doing the final wet sanding tomorrow and hopefully the plane will be white before time for bed...

Kevin
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Last edited by Kevin Greene; Jul 30, 2012 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 01:24 AM
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....

The battery is TINY!!!...(4S would fit)...The battery gets lost in the T-45 fuselage...(See Fred---My hands aren't as huge as you thought!!!)......

Kevin
Well, I had almost said something earlier, but it was going to be "Wow, now I really know you have Big....... Hands". But after the last time, with all the self esteem issues, I have had problems showing my....... Face, outside the house. My wife wonders why I am acting like a Ninja, ducking low, slithering close to walls and trees, crawling through bushes, and hiding behind cars.

So I was almost cured, now this.....


Good news is we got to see a closeup of the bird, with battery, primer, wires, and filler. Well 1/3 of the bird anyway. No binoculars, no Detroit spy camers, and you let us see a sneak peak! Thanks. Guess the battery is going to work out well, but I don't think you should use a 4 cell even though we know you to be a bit crazy when it comes to high voltage!

Fred
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