Originally Posted by GTstrudl

Haha, my plywood heli pad for V120 is FOUR times bigger than yours.

That's funny. I would have liked mine a little bigger, but chose the middle between size for the heli and being able to move and transport it.

Originally Posted by khoysagk

That's funny. I would have liked mine a little bigger, but chose the middle between size for the heli and being able to move and transport it.

I don't have a truck, otherwise I might had worked on the back of truck in the field.
I have used heli pad just like beach or picnic towel, and put everything on the top. It's always nice to kneel down on a dry and flat surface to bind heli. Drill two holes on plywood and put a string around for easy carrying.

If your pad really is four times bigger than mine how do you fit it in your car? My pad is 3x4 feet.

Woop, talking about visual illution. My pad is about the same size as yours. We all figure what an optimum size should be.
Rephrase: My plywood heli pad for V120 is look like FOUR times bigger than yours.

Originally Posted by GTstrudl

Woop, talking about visual illution. My pad is about the same size as yours. We all figure what an optimum size should be.
Rephrase: My plywood heli pad for V120 is look like FOUR times bigger than yours.

Dsobbe's pad was 9 inches by 9 inches when he was on the competition team for AMA. He only had to hit it 10 out of 10 times. Now that is impressive!

Originally Posted by HeliGriff

Dsobbe's pad was 9 inches by 9 inches when he was on the competition team for AMA. He only had to hit it 10 out of 10 times. Now that is impressive!

That depends on how big, or should I say how small the heli was, lol.

Originally Posted by khoysagk

That depends on how big, or should I say how small the heli was, lol.

Back in the day, we're talking 500-700 size most likely. I'll have to ask him. Micro & Mini class helis came later. I believe they were all Hobby Class to start with.

I have all the servos pulled. I'll be replacing a gear set in the Elev servo this week. While I was there, I replaced some servo connector-ends that got a little scuffed-up from plier-grips during the initial build. They are fragile! Also, one of the servo wires had gotten nipped, so I repaired it with tiny shrink tube.

This little break allowed me to tear down the head and grease the thrust bearings. I'm sure that I did it on 'Day One- page one' of the build, but I couldn't recall 100%. So, now it's done for sure.

I ordered a main shaft and now I'll have a spare to balance the head properly in the Dubro. I'm excited about that because I know how important it is for the balance to be 100% accurate. The same goes for the tail blades and hub assembly, which I will also balance this week.

I should be back in the air Saturday or Sunday depending on the weather. I'll be flying a little higher roll rates and lower expos. If this bird is anything like the sim, I have much smoother control when it's set to be more agile. As Dsobbe says, "lean on the sticks, don't throw 'em!"

If your inclined to order the main shaft Griff, have your thought to replace the feathering shaft as they are the first to bend with any blade damage on a CP heli. If you remove the blades and turn one end of the feathering shaft with a socket you may see some up/down on the other end blade grip. You can also roll them on a flat surface. Anyways if I have a blade breakage I've found the feather shaft is the most likely source of vibration. After my last GAUI crash I ordered Main, Feathering, and Tail shaft and changed them all out for very little expense. Looking at the parts I removed, the feathering shaft was the only confirmed bend.

Mick

Originally Posted by Bravo47

If your inclined to order the main shaft Griff, have your thought to replace the feathering shaft as they are the first to bend with any blade damage on a CP heli. If you remove the blades and turn one end of the feathering shaft with a socket you may see some up/down on the other end blade grip. You can also roll them on a flat surface. Anyways if I have a blade breakage I've found the feather shaft is the most likely source of vibration. After my last GAUI crash I ordered Main, Feathering, and Tail shaft and changed them all out for very little expense. Looking at the parts I removed, the feathering shaft was the only confirmed bend.

Mick

I'm with ya Mate! Actually, I ordered a main, feathering, tail, and a torque shaft. I figured that I may as well get them all since I was placing an order.

Ok. Here's some more standardized non-standard nomenclature. Is a "head lock" gyro a "heading hold" gyro?

And, the Dynam gy192 a piezo gyro?

Thanks

HeliGriff,

I know you don't have ER450 anymore, but I remember you said to set RUDD to 3:00 for a solid rock tail. I've achieved that goal once by using original TX and stock tail servo. But stock tail servos would burn out very quickly, same as EXI metal servo. Tail servo would become very hot even on bench test as long as V1 set over 1:00. Did you have similar situation back then?

Originally Posted by dsobbe

Ok. Here's some more standardized non-standard nomenclature. Is a "head lock" gyro a "heading hold" gyro?

And, the Dynam gy192 a piezo gyro?

Thanks

Sorry guys, I've been busy..

Head lock = capable of head hold mode (fast enough).
Head hold = a TX and/or Servo 'mode' for which to operate the servo.

Originally Posted by GTstrudl

HeliGriff,

I know you don't have ER450 anymore, but I remember you said to set RUDD to 3:00 for a solid rock tail. I've achieved that goal once by using original TX and stock tail servo. But stock tail servos would burn out very quickly, same as EXI metal servo. Tail servo would become very hot even on bench test as long as V1 set over 1:00. Did you have similar situation back then?

Actually, I answered your same question on the Razor450 blog. Your travel limits are set too far. The servo is trying to push the tail bearing beyond its physical ability. Therefore, the servo burns up. The servo's travel range is adjusted on the Gyro itself, if you have a GY48 gyro (see manual). The GY192 does not have any travel adjustment, nor does the original TX. If you are running a DX6i or compatible "computerized" TX, reduce the endpoints on Channel 6 (rudder servo) until the there is no more binding on the tail rudder. Also, be sure that your servos are set to analog, not digital, unless you are using digital servos.

The 3:00 setting has nothing to do with travel, only gyro sensitivity.

..and there ya have it!

Originally Posted by dsobbe

Ok. Here's some more standardized non-standard nomenclature. Is a "head lock" gyro a "heading hold" gyro?

And, the Dynam gy192 a piezo gyro?

Thanks

Oh yeah.. GY192 are Piezos. For $12 you don't get MEMS gyros.