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Old May 14, 2011, 10:48 AM
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HeliGriff,

Very good description of initial setup in your Post #1. If everyone reads it, it will prevent a lot of beginner problems. Good work.

The stock V200D01 balances with a slight forward C.G. In that condition it tends to be a little unstable when yawing 360 degrees. But, doesn't tend to drop its nose much in banked turns.
If the C.G. is moved a little further forward the copter becomes stable in 360 yaws and forward flight is not as pitch sensitive. But, the nose tends to drop more in banked turns and requires a fair amount of back stick to correct.
Questions: Are both C.G. points correct? Is the position of a forward C.G. more of a preference than mandatory setting with fixed pitch rotor heads?
Thanks
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Old May 14, 2011, 10:05 PM
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Cg

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsobbe View Post
HeliGriff,

Very good description of initial setup in your Post #1. If everyone reads it, it will prevent a lot of beginner problems. Good work.

The stock V200D01 balances with a slight forward C.G. In that condition it tends to be a little unstable when yawing 360 degrees. But, doesn't tend to drop its nose much in banked turns.
If the C.G. is moved a little further forward the copter becomes stable in 360 yaws and forward flight is not as pitch sensitive. But, the nose tends to drop more in banked turns and requires a fair amount of back stick to correct.
Questions: Are both C.G. points correct? Is the position of a forward C.G. more of a preference than mandatory setting with fixed pitch rotor heads?
Thanks
Thanks for stopping by and for the kind comment.

I'm no expert! From what I've read and video I've watched by the 'real' experts of sport and scale flying, some say forward CG is preferred over mast-dead-center, others say not. I assumed that all of the 3D guys would prefer mast-dead-center CG. But, not all do! I know of one expert who prefers a little fwd CG on his CP 500 size heli.

Note: Another factor to consider is torque and translational lift. I've noticed that my heli descends when banking right and I need more throttle. When I bank left, the opposite happens. This is caused by the torque due to clockwise blade rotation. The climbing and descending is similar to translational lift. When flying forward into the wind. the heli will climb; downwind the heli will descend. Regardless of CG, this occurs with all helis.

Okay, back to CG.. As far as Fwd CG being preferred for FP, I don't believe it makes a difference. I think its more about the "feel", which is a personal thing. For example, I prefer to ADD throttle when needed opposed to cutting throttle and cause a rapid descend. I prefer to pull BACK the cyclic if needed, opposed to pushing it forward and gaining too much speed. A little forward CG allows me to fly it that way.

I'm certain that there are specific aeronatical equations that establish the "ultimate" CG placement. All I know is that my V200D01 is easier to fly when I setup with the nose a little heavy.

With the V200D01, I think its more about what feels "right" to you. That's not to say that you would want the same CG placement on different size/brand of heli

Happy Flying

P.S. Oh... almost forgot to mention that I got to fly the V200/Classima today and that's a good thing! Gonna spool-up the 450 tomorrow for her maiden flight. Wish me luck!
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Old May 15, 2011, 07:24 AM
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HeliGriff,

Thanks for the quick reply. I agree, the V200D01 handles a little better with a slightly forward C.G. I put .17oz. in the nose of the canopy which doesn't have a noticeable effect on pitch trim, yet damps out any longitudinal rocking and pitch oversensitivity in forward flight. That seems about right for me.
Good luck with your 450. And, keep it away from those overpriced floating tree houses!
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Old May 15, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsobbe View Post
HeliGriff,

Thanks for the quick reply. I agree, the V200D01 handles a little better with a slightly forward C.G. I put .17oz. in the nose of the canopy which doesn't have a noticeable effect on pitch trim, yet damps out any longitudinal rocking and pitch oversensitivity in forward flight. That seems about right for me.
Good luck with your 450. And, keep it away from those overpriced floating tree houses!
Yeah, I found that when I put CG on mast-center, the V200 would rock when coming in and out of forward flight. Moving the CG fwd and bumping the Elev gain a bit cured that.
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Old May 15, 2011, 01:23 PM
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Maiden Flight on the 450

Got the 450 into the air today. Those interested.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post18242080

Dynam Razor450 Maiden Flight (0 min 15 sec)


I have three perfect birds.

*S107 for inside the house
*V200/Classima for gymnasium or a light breeze outside
*450 for windy days

Life is GOOD! LOL!


Happy Flying!
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Old May 20, 2011, 07:35 PM
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Back to the V200D01!

Day One: I needed to get back to practicing my nose-in manuevers so I took the V200D01 out. Flew 5 packs doing Sideways forward & backward, Pirouettes, and Nose-in hovers. This heli is so stable that it gives you time to recover when you get brain-fade.

GRRRREAT DAY OF FLYING! No damage to report! As my buddy John at www.rchelicopterfun.com says "Bring it home in one piece."

Day Two: Another great day flying the V200D01/Classima! 5 more packs doing all nose-in and pirouettes and.. NO DAMAGE TO REPORT!!!
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Old May 21, 2011, 07:53 PM
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TIP: Learning to Fly on a V200D01

Even though I strictly follow the free "Flight School" lessons on www.rchelicopterfun.com, I was intimidated when I first started flying. When the heli decided to go off in an unwanted direction, I was hesitant to correct it quickly. I would try to correct the motion gracefully, imagining it as a real helicopter. I crashed a lot!

Building, repairing, and setting up a heli is a big part of the hobby and almost as fun as flying. However, I knew that the most important thing to do was to take lessons from a Pro, online. You can build the best heli, but if you can't fly it, your hobby is limited to a workbench or kitchen table. Most of my Heli-time is actual flying and practicing my flight training manuevers. The point is, the gracefulness of scale flying comes later! The radical 3-D style of flight also comes later! First, you have to learn to fly the darn thing whether you do it with gradual corrections or aggressive corrections. For me, the answer was: use BOTH!

Okay, here's the TIP! Since I was hesitant, I mentally imagined one end of a STRING attached to the right-stick of my RX and the other end attached to the heli. The string is always tight. So, when the heli starts to go forward when you don't want it to, give the string a quick tug by pulling the right-stick backwards! DONT BE AFRAID TO GIVE IT A QUICK JERK! If it goes right, give a quick tug on the string with left cyclic. If it goes left, tug on the string with right cyclic.

Once I saw how I could radically tip and tilt this bird to make it obey, my control problems began to fade away. Now, just for fun I will see how much I can TIP it and still recover. It's fun doing it about 10 inches off the floor! I'll get some video and post it.

This imaginary-string exercise really helped me and still does today doing nose-in training. The only difference with nose-in is that everything is backwards except throttle. When you are practicing nose-in, you may also find it much easier by correcting forward/backward motion first, then worry about sideways motion (RADD's theory). Also, practice doing Pirouettes. Lots of them!

Hope this helps! Happy Flying!
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Old May 22, 2011, 02:05 PM
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WooHoo! 15 for 15! No Damage to Report!!

Had a great V200D01 day doing ALL nose-in (NI) practice: NI Hovers, NI Take-offs, Pirouettes into NI landing, Eights into NI landing, high-approach NI landings.

Awesome day! Almost lost it once into a power cable. I was shaking!!! Getting better though!
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 02:41 PM
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Ole' Reliable

All the while, my V200D01 sits on the shelf while I work on other helis. I pretty much forget about it until flying day. I can always count on it for a great day of flying!

As long as the blades have not touched anything but air, I can pop it into the box and head to the field without any need for adjustment. Just Grab-N-Go fly! I guess all helicopters are suppose to be that way. It sure is nice to have one that doesn't need anything but batteries!
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Intentional Disorientation

Today, I got to practice "Intentional Disorientation". The thought of getting disoriented makes us all cringe. So I figure, "Why not practice getting disoriented?"

I start by doing large and lazy pirouettes or circles. Every few moments, regardless of the heli's current orientation, I'll give it a random stick command and add throttle to climb. At this point, the heli ends up in very unusual orientations. It's my job to gain control and bring her back safely to the reference spot. I try to land with the nose facing in a different direction each time. Then, I will take-off in that same orientation.

I know this sounds weird, but practicing disorientation sure has helped me a lot. It helps build my confidence and I have far less incidents. I've recovered from situations that I know would have resulted in a major crash, just a few weeks ago. Practice makes perfect. Give it a try!
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 08:28 PM
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Gears.. Gears.. Gears..

Well, if you own a V200D01 AND you are a Newbie like myself, then you already know that you'll have to replace about 30 maingears and 3-4 sets of tail gears until you get good at flying.

Good news!.. I've drastically cut down on stripped gears by getting them positioned in the right places! (Plus, as I get better at flying, I don't crash as much.) I rarely ever damage a tail gear, now that I know how to adjust them. In a crash, the main-gear takes the hit, but the tail gears are unharmed. That's a good thing because a main gear can be replaced in 5 minutes (see PHOTOS below)!

TAILGEARS: The problem with tail gears is that they can get sloppy. When they are sloppy, they strip out. Here's how to "snug" tail gears:

* Take a small screwdriver and insert it between the transmission-shaft (verticle) and the drive-shaft (the shaft that is inside the gear as shown).
* Using slight pressure, pry against the transmission-shaft, which will push the drive shaft backwards. Make sure the tip of the screwdriver presses on the driveshaft ONLY! Do NOT push on the gear!
* Now, do the same on the tail by prying against the drive-shaft (inside the gear) and the tail-shaft.
* Your final step is to press the tail shaft into position. Often the tail shaft will slip to the left and cause the tail-gears to be sloppy. Using needle-nose pliers, place one plier-tip on the end of the tail-shaft and the other tip on the horizontal gear and give it a little squeeze.

Snugging up the gears is done! Check the tail-gears "snugness" by spinning the rotors. If they spin freely, you've got it perfect! If the gears are too tight, pick one end of the drive-shaft and pry it again. This will loosen up the gears enough to free-spin. Do NOT do the other end! Now for the main-gear...

MAINGEAR: There's videos on You Tube showing maingear replacement on a Walkera 180Z (same gear/frame). It's a good video, but requires you to remove 22 screws and tear the entire heli down. Now, I replace the maingear without removing any screws!! Here's how:

* Pop-off the servo-linkage at the swashplate.
* Loosen the 2 motor mount bolts and disengage the pinion from the maingear.
* Rotate the head until the gear-pin can be viewed through the side of the frame.
* Simply pop the pin out using the little allen wrench that came with the heli.
* Pull the head/shaft up until the gear falls off the end.
* Slide a new gear into the frame from the side, push the shaft down through it.
* Using needle-nose pliers, push a new pin into the gear. Reconnect the linkage and go fly!

Hope this helps!!
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 08:19 PM
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New Air Field!

I got permission to fly at the local airport. My brother has a hanger there so I have the gate code to the area where the private hangers are located. I use his hanger as a base and and have access to the private pilots lounge. My helipad is a 50 foot wide taxi-way with large open fields all around. AWESOME!!! So.... got to do LARGE circuits, BIG circles, really HIGH Nose-In approaches, and lots of Fast Forward Flight today! WooHoooo!!
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Old Jun 13, 2011, 04:04 PM
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Toilet Bowl Effect- Part One

Toilet Bowl Effect (TBE)- I like to describe it as “water circling the drain”. Even though the nose of the heli is always pointing the same direction, you’ll notice a counterclockwise circular motion as if the heli is about to be sucked down the drain during a hands-off hover.

This problem is normally associated with Co-axial helicopters and is covered quite well at http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/toilet-bowl-effect.html . It has to do with slop in the flybar and linkages of a coaxial heli. My buddy at rchelicopterfun.com says that he hasn’t encountered the problem with Flybarless Micros. So why does the V200D01 do it?

Several factors can contribute to TBE-like symptoms as follows (all Helicopters):

1. CG of one blade is not balanced with the other blade
2. Blades and Rotor Head are not in balanced
3. Blade Tracking is off
4. Linkage is sloppy because the ends are not twisted in opposite directions
5. Bent shaft

Specific to V200D01: below

6. Personally, I believe the Blade Dampeners (rubber O-rings on feathering shaft) are too soft. You’ll notice a lot of slop in them. This could cause the same symptoms found in the Co-axials. Many V200D01 owners have tried washers, spacers, and extra o-rings to stiffen up the dampening with little success.
7. E-clips may be missing from the feathering shaft.

Because the V200D01 has a large and powerful tail rotor, coupled with the fact that the main blades rotate clockwise, it will drift-left during a hover, naturally. That is NORMAL and is the same on all helicopters with clockwise rotation.

The following is “My Theory” as to why the V200D01 has TBE. However, it’s just a THEORY:

8. Pilots (like me!) have a tendency to mis-level the swashplate to eliminate left-drift. Others may simply apply more right-trim to accomplish the same thing. By doing so, we are changing the helicopter's natural aerodynamics. The gyros are always fighting the torque of the spinning blades and the push of the tail rotor. The swash is tilted to the right to overcome left-drift, which is not normal. I think that this constant struggle between TORQUE, TILT, and ELECTRONICS may help cause TBE symptoms. When you add "sloppy dampeners" into the mix, you start to see TBE. The reason I believe this is because; when I set the swashplate back to factory settings (level), which allows normal left-drifting, the TBE goes away.

With all that said, its really just a preference thing. I'd rather not have any left-drift, eventhough I may get a little TBE in return. Besides, I have very little TBE, eventhough I have levelled the swash to eliminate left-drift. It's barely noticable at all. TBE "bugged me" a lot, while I was learning to fly, because most of my flying was "hover exercises" where TBE shows up. Now that I do more forward flight circuits, TBE is not anything I worry about because it doesn't really affect my forward flight.

I hope this helps!
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Old Jun 15, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Toilet Bowl Effect- Part Two: resetting the swashplate to factory

I tried it last night! I reset my Swash to factory level and sure enough, no TBE! Still, I prefer no left-drift, so I put it back to where I had it.

Lets say that you want to reset your swashplate back to factory, which allows a little left-drift without TBE. Its simple if you measured all your linkages the day you took it out of the box! Most people don't because they are too excited to get it out and fly! If you are one of those people, try this technique:

* Place the heli on a smooth surface like seal-coated cement, marble tile, or a glass-top table. Make sure the nose is pointed away from you. Power up the heli, but don't move the heli once it has initialized (beep-beep).

* Add throttle until you get near that magical 30% of power, where the V200D01 wants to lift off, without moving the cyclic (right-stick). Adjust rudder if needed to keep the nose pointed straight ahead. As the heli starts to get light on the skids, it should "scoot" (slide sideways) to the left on the smooth surface. If the heli wants to tip over (the right-skid lifts off the ground) then shorten the aileron-linkage (the one on the right). If it wants to just sit in one spot, or scoot to the right, lengthen the aileron linkage. This method is a good place to start and should get you very close to the factory setting.

You can also use levelling rods (broken pieces of your old training gear) as shown in the photos back on Post #1 of this blog. Levelling rods are great, but you may need to have the heli powered up while adjusting the linkage. The reason is because I've found that the servos on my V200D01 will move whenever I try to unplug the heli.

Happy Flying!

Note: Also see Post #92 for new findings, TBE- Part Three
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 08:14 PM
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Out in the street tonight doing some skinny circuits and the neighbors start coming out of their houses to watch. LOL! I was bringing her back nose-in just as a car pulled up to ask me about the heli. About 15 feet out I swung the tail around and put her into a sideways decent, bringing her right down to my feet, and landed. It was freakin' BEAUTIFUL!!! It looked real.

Not wanting to push my luck, I powered-off, answered some questions, and brought her back inside the house. Little do they know it has cost me $$$$$$$$$$$$$ in crashes to get this far! LOL!

Happy Flying!
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