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Old Dec 20, 2011, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicoflyer View Post
Well I flew it this morning and all did not go well.
The motor quit and I had no control and the plane went in and it went in hard! As bad as it may seam I was lucky because it crashed about 15' from me.
When I would go to full throttle the motor seamed to only get upto 3/4 throttle and pulse on and off?
When I bench tested the motor it was at about 23 amps and I had a C.C 25 amp ESC.
The only thing I did different from the bench to the flight was that I had new Nano Tech lipos 25-50 c and there were higher c rating which could of put it over the 25 amps limit of the ESC and also it didn't have good air flow over the ESC.

I'll build a new one this weekend with a 45 amp ESC and that should fix things!
I can't get over how well the plane took the impact! It was all intact just had stress cracks.I just find it easier to build a new one.

Will post a video later have to go to work.
Sorry to hear that. 23A is pushing it for a 25A ESC but it is...err...was a Castle. It shouldn't have done that. At least you got some video of the carnage . Can't wait to see the new plane.

Chris
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 09:30 AM
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I just clicked on one of the banner ads and saw this power setup. I wonder if it would be a good cheap starter setup for the Funbat?
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 10:06 AM
beemerdon
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Nico, sorry about the crash. Were you happy with the performance of the new setup?

Chris, that would make a good, inexpensive starter setup but I am betting you would quickly want more power. Just ask Nico. I have the 2212-10 and it does great.

All, just went to Walmart (I try to limit my time there) and they have Elmer's 5mm foam board for about $2 a sheet for the 20" by 30" size.

Don
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by beemerdon View Post
Nico, sorry about the crash. Were you happy with the performance of the new setup?

Chris, that would make a good, inexpensive starter setup but I am betting you would quickly want more power. Just ask Nico. I have the 2212-10 and it does great.

All, just went to Walmart (I try to limit my time there) and they have Elmer's 5mm foam board for about $2 a sheet for the 20" by 30" size.

Don
It never got to pull full power for any sustained time to really tell. but it was defiantly faster that my first setup. I was more impressed how well it handled the extra weight? I expected it to fly heavy and need more up trim, so I gave it a few up clicks before the flight but it didn't need it I had to take them back out.
I guess that KFm wing really does work. I noticed that as the speed increased it created more lift.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by beemerdon View Post
Chris, that would make a good, inexpensive starter setup but I am betting you would quickly want more power. Just ask Nico. I have the 2212-10 and it does great.



Don
You are mostly correct but I am one of the exceptions. I'm happy with my setup that is similar to this. I'm probably topping out around 55MPH and that's fast and fun enough for my reflexes. Besides that, higher performance comes with a higher price tag. If I can't do it cheap I can't do it at all.

Quote:
All, just went to Walmart (I try to limit my time there) and they have Elmer's 5mm foam board for about $2 a sheet for the 20" by 30" size.
Is that what you use and do you leave the paper on?

Chris
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 03:00 PM
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Here's the video. It's a bit funny because I forgot that it was being video reordered ,and don't mind the sound effects I make just before it hits the ground and my french!!


funbat melt down (2 min 52 sec)
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 05:31 PM
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Such a pity Nico, looked as though it was flying well on the new set up.

Had to laugh at the sound effects and expletive. I know the feeling and have uttered the same and worse. Those moments between knowing you're going to crash and there is nothing you can do about it, and inspection of the wreckage are just so heart breaking.
Chin up. Tears make the glue cure
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 05:36 PM
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OK, got a question. I have UHU Creativ (Por) or GWS contact adhesive to laminate the KF step to the wing. I know to apply it with a credit card on both parts but how long should it dry? And do I need to use epoxy to hold the spar in place? I'm using a wood dowel again because it worked great on the first one. If I use epoxy (5min) do I set the rod in one half and then apply it to the other when laminating or try to apply it all at once.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 05:40 PM
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wormboy, I agree with you 100% and don't get me wrong, but to crash and get it on video makes it priceless!
Besides when you have fun building it's not as bad.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicoflyer View Post
wormboy, I agree with you 100% and don't get me wrong, but to crash and get it on video makes it priceless!
Besides when you have fun building it's not as bad.
Hows this for timing...

I finally sent my original FB to the bin about an hour ago after playing at pylon racing around the lamp posts at the local park. No expletives.. just a moment of silence. I saw it break into pieces as it fell from 20m up so I knew it was all over before I saw the wreckage

Time to break out the Depron and the hobby knife!
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chris1379 View Post
OK, got a question. I have UHU Creativ (Por) or GWS contact adhesive to laminate the KF step to the wing. I know to apply it with a credit card on both parts but how long should it dry? And do I need to use epoxy to hold the spar in place? I'm using a wood dowel again because it worked great on the first one. If I use epoxy (5min) do I set the rod in one half and then apply it to the other when laminating or try to apply it all at once.
Chris, go with UHU Por it's sold as a contact glue but can be used to glue joints just like regular glue or used as contact glue.
To use as contact just put a thin layer on both sides and let dry about 4-5 min or just dry to the touch then mate the parts.The longer the glue drys before you mate the parts the less forgiving it is on repositioning the parts This glue is amazing you can't screw it up.
I would stay away from epoxy,it's not flexible at all and adds more weight.
Glue the rod and laminate the wing all in one step it will position the rod more accurately.
I personally went with a 1x8mm flat carbon glued at the trailing edge of the top laminate see pics below.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:08 PM
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Hows this for timing...

I finally sent my original FB to the bin about an hour ago after playing at pylon racing around the lamp posts at the local park. No expletives.. just a moment of silence. I saw it break into pieces as it fell from 20m up so I knew it was all over before I saw the wreckage

Time to break out the Depron and the hobby knife!
Wormboy go with FFF it's not as brittle as depron.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:17 PM
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Wormboy go with FFF it's not as brittle as depron.
Depron is all I've been able to source here in Perth. Ideally I'd like to try EPP but it's so hard to get. I'd have to ship it in from interstate or overseas. For that price I'd be better off buying a EPP kit (which I may still do for use in full- contact combat)

Plus, I'm like you.. I enjoy the building as much as the flying. I've got a another depron and a balsa build in process but the FB is so fast and easy I'll try and knock one out tonight.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicoflyer View Post
Chris, go with UHU Por it's sold as a contact glue but can be used to glue joints just like regular glue or used as contact glue.
To use as contact just put a thin layer on both sides and let dry about 4-5 min or just dry to the touch then mate the parts.The longer the glue drys before you mate the parts the less forgiving it is on repositioning the parts This glue is amazing you can't screw it up.
I would stay away from epoxy,it's not flexible at all and adds more weight.
Glue the rod and laminate the wing all in one step it will position the rod more accurately.
I personally went with a 1x8mm flat carbon glued at the trailing edge of the top laminate see pics below.
Thanks. I have used it as a contact cement but not as anything else. I know to coat both parts and let them dry but I'm not sure how to do the rod. Do I just run a bead down each channel right before assembly or do I have to coat the rod and channel and let it dry? There is also the issue of the rod not fitting tightly, which I figured the epoxy would help with. I only have half a tube of UHU here so it looks like I need to locate my other one in a box...sigh.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:35 PM
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I use it as a contact glue for the laminate part and a normal glue for the rod.

Credit card the laminate surfaces, wait for it to partially dry, just before you're ready close it up run a bead of UHU Por down both the channels and put your rod in, then close up, weight it down with something and and wait for it to dry properly.

I only use epoxy for constructing and attaching the motor mount. The weight up front helps balance at the CoG
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