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Old Oct 20, 2011, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
Bob, I would suggest that any club buying with discount from you post some combat video on YouTube with a link to your site. The carnage might bring in some extra sales for you.
Andy
Why does everyone want to destroy these perfectly good funbats? Actually, it's a very fun plane to just fly. I wonder if they would be good for some pylon racing? Why not, people are racing Slow Sticks.

Chris
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 10:45 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
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I initially cut two as a test.
However, by the time I got back in the house I had an order in my e-mail.
One was sent to Jon for his review and Oky Doky :-)

So out they both went in yesterdays Post.

The end result being, I have yet to build a FUNBAT for me.

I've since ordered MORE foam stock, white 6mm depron, as I also got an order
for two of The Twins kits which uses up lots of sheets.

C U L8r

Bob
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 10:02 PM
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jhtitan's Avatar
Washington MO
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Got the new Depron Funbat from Bob yesterday, fit of the parts is perfect! Its going together great so far (other than me never having built in depron before, cracking a piece, and some of my bevel cuts where bad due to a dull blade)

Its ready to get a motor mount and some gear then finish glueing up the last of the pieces.

looking forward to getting the newest Funbat in the air and seeing how she flys in depron.

heres a couple pics of my progress so far, was planning on finishing it up tonight but I fell asleep on the couch lol, its been a long week

Jon
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 10:05 PM
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Washington MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1379 View Post
Why does everyone want to destroy these perfectly good funbats? Actually, it's a very fun plane to just fly. I wonder if they would be good for some pylon racing? Why not, people are racing Slow Sticks.

Chris
well my original plan was a simple plane for combat, but it has proved to be a great all around flyer. I want to add a high KV outrunner on one soon and see how fast I can get it to go :0 so I don't see where Pylon Racing would be a problem for it.

Jon
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 12:47 AM
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ah YOU MAY NOT BE AWARE THAT

placing some Packing tape on the OPPOSITE SIDE of the depron BEND wil prevent
that Cracking !

I should a made it clear B4 , sorry for lateness.

Well there are SOOO many FAST "wings" put there, but SURE, Another wont hurt !



Bob
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 02:34 AM
Reap the wild wind
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Bristol,UK
Joined Feb 2007
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Hi all
construction of my 39" Funbat is well underway. I just took measurement from my smaller one and scaled up everything. Wing and horizontal stab cut in one piece as this will ensure that the tabbed fuse sides will line up correctly. It's a big beast so plan to separate the main wing from tail so I can remove the wing for transportation and storage. Have built the wing as a KFm-4 so that's 18mm at the le. I only have 12mm le balsa so will bevel and sand the top sheet to create a nice profile. Will use a 9 gram servo for the elevator and 2 x 9 gram servo's for the ailerons which will sit just into the step so I can run my wires behind the step. The spar is a 6mm aluminium spacer used in double glazed window panels which is trapped between the 2 KFm steps
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&s...60&tx=45&ty=74. Shame the young lady in the picture didn't deliver it but, hey, I did score a 2m length for free
I can also add a 6mm carbon spar if this isn't strong enough
I'm still pondering a method for retaining the wing but I think I'll use 2 nylon bolts at the rear into captive nuts set into some hard balsa. At the front I plan to epoxy another piece of hard balsa into a cut out in the depron at the le behind the balsa le. This will extend downwards into the fuse and will have 2 dowel pegs facing forward into a depron & lite ply bulkhead. I'll add a horizontal bulkhead between the motor mount and this wing retaining b/h. The lipo will sit on top and will be accessed via a top hatch and the esc & rx will either sit below or in the area under the KFm step which will not be top sheeted to allow access.
I will use the same power set up as used in my GWS FW190
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=3885
which on 3 cells is good for 300 watts on an 8x4 but I'll go for a 7x6 for more speed or maybe a 7x4 on a 4 cell 1800 pack
I'll post some picture and video once the build has progressed a bit further
Andy
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 08:20 AM
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Washington MO
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yea I did back up the fold with tape, the tape broke when under the stress of trying to fold the KF step past the 90 point. I actually cracked the plate trying to curve it a bit, like and under cambered wing, to get it to go over the spar and add a bit of thickness to the wing. no worries tho, its all good and strong now.

one question for anyone that knows Depron, would I need foam safe CA on Depron? I know there is one type of foam that doesn't require it, and I know Blue core doesn't like CA at all, not even foam safe.

gonna get more done on it today.

Jon
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 09:30 AM
Reap the wild wind
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Bristol,UK
Joined Feb 2007
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Hi Jon
you MUST use foam safe CA unless you want to see all those nice parts disappear before your very eyes
I prefer UHU Por/Creative as it's not as brittle as CA. For laminating KFm panels I use spray adhesive for foam backed carpet as it's foam safe and much cheaper than 3M products. Just test it on a scrap just in case
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/240143
I'm further along with my bigun and have decided not to make the wing removable as it's mostly wing anyway and would have weakened & added weight to the build. Fuse sides glued in place and once set I can start adding bulkheads and the motor mount.
Andy
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Um OK Jon ,errr ??? WAIT A MINUTE !!!!

1st: IMHO Foamsafe CA is TOO brittle for foamy building.
Add to that the high cost and fumes ... I never use the stuff.

Second:
The KF is on the LE right ?
SO the Large rectangular pieces Simlpy Go ON TOP.
Or at least THAT is how I would build it.

Then sand the LE to a round shape

I hope you did not Glue the wing parts all together and THEN try to bend that ?
I mean , It LOOKS like you did it right in your Pic about

Or ... MAYBE I have misinterptered the Plans, hmmmm

I thought you were talking about bending the Fuse.
But I see that You've cut the fuse parts into 3 pieces.
I thought you might want to try Bending the fuse on this straight edges.
I could have done a better job of NESTing the parts
IF I'd cut them apart into 3 parts.

If you tape the outside of the fuse part and then use a straight edge CREASE the back side where the bends will go,
Then depron bends fairly well.

Depron is NOT going to LIKE a full, almost 180, bend for the LE with or without a glue line.

There has been some discussion in scratchbuilt re Crush Formers and Heat Bend over benders.
I been able to bend depron aroound some 3/8" aluminum tubing for a full foil builtup wing,
but not without a lot of time and carefull heat gun use. It was a pain IMHO.

CREASE AND TAPE ARE MY Preferred Bending methods

Bob
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Bob,
I never thought of creasing where the bends are. I cut my fuse into 3 pieces, cut 45's on the edges, taped and epoxied. I'll have to try your method on the next one. On the wing, I did just what you said. Someone else suggested using balsa LE stock on the leading edge instead of sanding but I haven't tried it. What kind of glue do you use for attaching the wing to the fuse, etc?

Chris
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 02:34 PM
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Heres a pic of the Glue


So what cracked ?

Just curious

Bob
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 04:02 PM
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Creasing Foam Where You Want it to Bend

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1379 View Post
Bob, I never thought of creasing where the bends are. ... I'll have to try your method on the next one. ... Someone else suggested using balsa LE stock on the leading edge instead of sanding but I haven't tried it. What kind of glue do you use for attaching the wing to the fuse, etc? Chris
The preformed balsa for a leading edge or a trailing edge tends to be pricey, so I have gotten into the habit of using thin sheet balsa to make 1/2" wide strips. Sometimes the strips are wider on larger versions, and less wide on smaller versions of the same RC model. Since we are talking thin foam skins, top and bottom, the balsa strip between them adds stiffness and resistance to damage. I can then shape the edges as I desire by sanding the foam edges. Just about any foam safe glue (even contact glues) works very well to keep the sandwich together, but the foaming glue needs to be applied very thinnly, misted with water, and apply pressure evenly to the joint. I often use sandbags I make out of plastic ziplock bags of various sizes. Of course it is important to support the bottom side of the assembly to ensure it cures in the desired alignment. I normally build on plate glass to ensure a straight edge with no warping.
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 08:24 PM
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Washington MO
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ok well its kinda hard to explain (at least I have a hard time explaining it)

Normally to fold a KF step in blue core FFF or in readi board, I bevel both the LE of the wing and step to 45. then fold them up to 90 so that the bevels are together as if miter folding. then keep going and fold the step flat back onto the wing. This compresses the beveled edges into each other and makes a beautiful LE radius with no sanding needed. On readiboard, I can cut the step and wing on the CNC as one piece and its ready to fold, on FFF I have to back the fold with tape. in depron as I was folding past the 90 point it actually broke the tape lol. Tuff stuff, I actually cracked the top step trying to roll a bit of a curve in it after the folding failed. was my fault, I got to aggressive with it and cracked it a bit. You can see the crack in the pic, no worries now that its all glued up with quick cure gorilla glue

it was more me wanting to find out if it could be done. I have a video of how I fold a KF shot, but havent gotten it edited, have had it for a while.

next time I will try the crease and fold. I have done that with FFF and readi board both.

think I am going to get me some more Depron to play with in the near future I really like the feel of it and I would like a bit more experience with it.

Jon
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Old Oct 27, 2011, 01:32 PM
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Here are a few Pix of MY Bend.

1st I put clear packing tape on the OUT SIDE of the Fuse part.
NOTE put an extra piece 90 to fuse lined up at the flat spot just behind the curves.
And another at the Rear end - All to prevent tape splitting - do not trim these
2nd I used a monocote iron to seal down the packing tape.
3rd I trimmed of all the tape out side the part.
4th I marked and smoothly dented the BACK SIDE where I want to bend.
NOTE: I used the handles from scissors or Hemostats for a rounded
dent about 1/8 +- .

LASTLY, I heated up the bend with a few passes of a Monocote Heat Gun,
on both sides ( not too hot ) then simply Bent over the parts.

I hope this clarifies my "thinking" re the Fuse part and why I am shipping it
as ONE PIECE.

Of course, cutting it into 3 pieces and gluing it up squarely is another, possibly easier, option too.

Bob
Northwest Cutout Service
http://www.balsabuddies.com/
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Old Oct 27, 2011, 05:49 PM
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Birdofplay,
I like the way you did the fuse. I cut mine into 3 pieces and it was not easier. My biggest problem was beveling the edges. Then I had to realign the 3 pieces and keep from wrinkling the tape while I did it. Yeah, I think you have the right idea with the one piece fuse. I did notice that the top of the nose is separate. I left the edges square on mine and just taped it down in case I ever needed to get it apart.

I'm with you on the packing tape and sealing iron. I didn't seal the whole thing but I sealed all the edges so they don't come loose. If you cover the flat wing and tail surfaces with tape, don't use the iron on the whole surface or you could warp something.
Glad to see them being kitted again.

Chris
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