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Old Aug 15, 2011, 04:31 PM
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I was just looking at where to mount the servos and I hate to mess up the artwork. Would mounting the elevator and 2 aileron servos under the wing have a significant effect on the way it flies?
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Old Aug 15, 2011, 04:43 PM
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No not at all Chris. You're control surfaces will still move the same way though you'll need to make a way for the pushrods through your fuselage going to the ailerons. The elvevator could go right out the back. You I will likely do the same with my next one.
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimR120 View Post
No not at all Chris. You're control surfaces will still move the same way though you'll need to make a way for the pushrods through your fuselage going to the ailerons. The elvevator could go right out the back. You I will likely do the same with my next one.
Actually, I was thinking of 2 aileron servos, one on each side of the fuse. There would be holes cut in the sides of the fuse and the bottoms of the servos would be inside. The servo horns and control rods would all be external for easy adjustment. The elevator servo could be done the same way.
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Chris,
Now I see. I had a similar setup for a profile F-18 using elevons. It worked fine.
Jim
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 04:15 PM
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Bristol,UK
Joined Feb 2007
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Had a ball flying my Funbat on Sunday early evening. Winds were gusting to 25 mph but she handled the wind really well.
My FB has made a slightly modified version and pleased with it's flight performance.
Here is a short video. I must pack some streamer tape next time for some combat fun
Funbat depron RC plane (1 min 47 sec)

Head
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 02:52 PM
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My Funbat is finally finished. It's made of Dollar Tree Rediboard with the paper removed and covered with packing tape. I used Extreme tape on the front of the fuselage for extra strength. My spar is a 3/16" wooden dowel from Walmart. I won't be doing combat so it should be OK. It was easy enough to print the plans, cut the parts, and build it.

The electronics were a real challenge on this one. It was like trying to fit a whale into a tuna can. I wanted to use the batteries I already have in several planes so I had to make a way for them to fit with the existing velcro. I made a strap from Velcro OneWrap and hot glued it to the sides of the fuse. It can be removed to get to the ESC with a Monokote iron. It was difficult to find a way to get the battery and ESC inside the fuse. I had to shorten the motor and ESC wires because there's no room for extra wire.The ESC doesn't have much room to breathe so I hope I don't have any heat issues.

The servos are mounted under the plane for appearance. I used 2 aileron servos instead of one. The elevator pushrod is carbon fiber to keep the weight out of the tail. The Receiver is an AR6100 removed from a 4-in-1 and shrink-wrapped.

I hope to maiden it sometime this weekend. Probably won't have video but I'll let everyone know how it went.
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 01:21 AM
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Very clean build Chris & looking forward to your maiden flight. You will enjoy this plane.
I also wanted to use my existing lipos so enlarged and extended the fuse to allow for this. I also wanted to get some cool air into the esc and lipo compartments. This is an extract from my post on page 3.
"Just finishing a 595mm/23.5" version. I added a bit to the nose which is 95mm from le of wing.
I also added a bit of depth to the fuse and glued in a shelf under which will fit the 18-20 amp SS esc and HK Orange 2.4 ghz RX. There is plenty of room for up to a 1600 3 cell above and access is via a 2mm correx cover which will be held shut with some carbon rod inserted thru the fixed and hatch flutes. The ply motor mount has a cut out below the mount which will allow cooling air to enter both the lipo and ESC compartments"
Since my last video in the previous post, I've swapped the 6x5 for a 7x4. All I can say is WOW Talk about unlimited vertical. That's even with a 1500 3 cell on board. Instant big grin The added punch should come in handy once I've persuaded my FB to engage in some steamer combat fun
Head
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 10:51 AM
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headlessagain,
Thanks. Pictures have a way of making things look better than they are sometimes.

I like your build and looked at it quite a bit before I started mine. Is the wing chord larger than the plans? I especially like the double-layer fuse. Maybe you could post the plans for it sometime. The battery hatch solves alot of issues I had. The extended length does too. Just adding that would have given me enough space to avoid cutting motor wires and it would be much easier to acheive the correct CG. Mine is about 2 in. (50mm) from the LE.

My other issue is with the prop saver. I have a 3mm motor shaft and the only prop saver I have is 5.5mm on one side and 6mm on the other. The GWS HD props are 7mm in the center. Anyone know a quick fix? I found an APC Slowfly 8x3.8 but I don't think it will work as well.

Chris

Update: Also found an APC E 8x4 but the hub is so big it hits the prop saver screws. I did manage to find a solution, however. I had some small O-rings that were about the right size but too thick. I put one on the end of a Dremel tool and spun it against an emery board until it fit. While I was at it I remembered to file a flat spot on my motor shaft for the set screws. Should be good to go.
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Old Aug 21, 2011, 02:02 AM
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Mornin' Chris
from memory I just used Adobe 10 to scale my build down to 595 mm wingspan. The chord is 220mm at the tip and 270mm at where the wings meets the tail section. These measurement include the 30mm ailerons & 15mm stock balsa l/e. I used 6mm depron for the main wing etc and 3mm for the KFm-4 panels and fuse base.
The fuse is 95mm long in front of the l/e and 50mm wide & 65mm deep at a point under the l/e. This rises to 60mm deep and 55mm wide at the motor mount and tapers to 50mm at the wings t/e and 40mm high at the elevator. The fuse tapers to 40mm wide at the mid point of the wing and to 12mm at the elevator end.
The total fuse length is 540mm including the 25mm elevator which has proved to have plenty of authority as have the 30mm ailerons.
I arrived at these dimensions after measuring my 1000 & 1600 (long & thin type) 3 cell lipo's which I planned to use. I wanted to have a top lipo hatch and figured that a 2mm correx flap would be an ideal way of creating a simple durable access way. Both sizes of lipo's get pushed back 70mm into the fuse and there is a vented vertical bulk head to stop the pack moving backwards. Velcro stops any forward movement
I did glue in a few more vertical b/h's from about the mid point of the wings backwards.. Once I was happy with the lipo compartment I could decide on where to glue the horizontal lipo tray. The HK orange 2.4 RX is mounted at the front with the offset esc behind and both are retained with velcro. The lengthened esc battery wires pass up through the vertical bulk head into the rear of the lipo compartment. Make sure the wire is long enough to plug in the lipo outside the fuse as it's much easier and there is plently of space to stow the wires inside.
My birch ply motor mount has a cut out at it's bottom edge and the lipo tray has a cut out at the front. This allows cooling air to pass over the lipo and out of the vented vertical bulk head. It also allows air to pass over the esc (that's why its offset) and the air exits from a square cut out 215mm from the fuse front.
The build has exceeded my expectations and proved to be very tough. Have a look at my earlier video of the wing separating in flight and the rather rapid vertical nose plant The only damage was a split motor mount and a dislodged lipo tray fixed with epoxy and UHU Por.The wing was undamaged. And it was my fault as I'd cartwheeled the plane just before the structural failure
She fly's as if on rails (to use that old cliche beloved by motoring hacks) and is very aerobatic, especially on my set up of A2208/12 1800kv with APC 7x4e prop. http://www.giantcod.co.uk/a220812-18...-p-405608.html shows the newer version.
Just start out on low rates until you get the feel of her. Enjoy
Head
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Old Aug 21, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
<snip>
Have a look at my earlier video of the wing separating in flight and the rather rapid vertical nose plant
Head
Too bad that happened but glad you got it on video . Is your tail section separate from the main wing or did the tail just choose to stay with the fuse? I'm hoping that my wood spar will help keep that from happening by making the wing more flexible.
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Old Aug 21, 2011, 05:05 PM
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The tail decided to stay attached to the wing. I think that I'd already weakened the fuse to wing glue joint but this was masked by the packing tape.
Head
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 10:43 AM
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The maiden flight was a success! The plane flew great with no bad surprises. The only issue is that it wants to go up at full throttle and down when inverted. It was mostly corrected with a little down elevator trim. It glides way better than my Blue Funder and landings were smooth and easy. I tried to get some video with a keychain cam on the transmitter but it wasn't in the frame very much. I tried to use RC Speedo to calculate the speed but there were sprinkler pumps running making too much background noise.
I'm estimating a 40 mph top speed.

So far, the Dollar Tree Readiboard covered with packing tape is working great. The Extreme tape on the fuselage makes it very strong. The wood dowel spar looks to be strong enough in flight. We'll see later how it does on crashes. I think I'll go with 3mm CF on the next one (if there is one). Overall, I'm happy and know I'll have lots of fun with this thing.

Chris
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Looks like another simple plane to possbibly build.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 12:53 AM
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Great news Chris
I shoot all my flying shots using the #11 HD keycam mounted on an angled wedge of EPP foam glued to the peak of an old baseball hat. Works very well as long as you follow the action with your head not just your eyes. Try to fly close in or most of your footage will be of a wildly gyrating dot
Head
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
Great news Chris
I shoot all my flying shots using the #11 HD keycam mounted on an angled wedge of EPP foam glued to the peak of an old baseball hat. Works very well as long as you follow the action with your head not just your eyes. Try to fly close in or most of your footage will be of a wildly gyrating dot
Head
Hmmmm... sitting here starring at a wooden clothespin, hat, and a keychain cam.
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