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Old Mar 08, 2013, 09:38 PM
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Kevin Matney's Avatar
United States, MI, Monroe
Joined Mar 2000
862 Posts
For a straight TE

I first button you showed make a straight LE. I like 1 to make a straight TE.
I like a button to do the sweep back of a straight TE. Done in the panel parameters
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Old Apr 05, 2013, 01:43 PM
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gm.cnc's Avatar
France
Joined Feb 2006
282 Posts
GMFC Expert tutorial about cutting a wing panel for fiberglass bagging

Hi all,

Something I have made based on my recent experience:

http://start1g.ovh.net/~gmfcsoft/blog/?p=819

Enjoy,

Gilles
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Old Apr 17, 2013, 03:29 PM
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Joined Apr 2013
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I'm new to this shindig, so sorry if my question(s) seems naive. I'm having a few problems with wiring the Motor, Heat and Manual/PC LEDs, switches and push buttons. Namely, I'm having some weird power drops between the 50v power supply and the GGC board I'm using. Also, the LCD screen won't come on. Neither will the LEDs and the switches aren't responding. Are there any diagrams or troubleshooting tools I can consult or use to check my wiring? Even pictures of the GGC properly wired to the other controls would be helpful, just to get a more clear idea of what I'm doing wrong.
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Old Apr 17, 2013, 04:03 PM
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danfield's Avatar
Fullerton, CA
Joined Nov 2004
1,824 Posts
Have you looked at Gilles online documentation with pics?
http://gm.cnc.free.fr/en/index.html

What controller board are you using?

This 50v's, is that for the wire heat? A GGC get's its 5v power from the USB cable.
The GGC will or should run the LCD just plugged into the computer and with GMFC running.

Motors are wired to the controller so you need to read up on the controller manual first, then run the GGC utility or just from GMFC.

LCD - first double check the wiring, you may have wired it backwards, pretty easy to do if you started at the wrong end.

Are you in the USA? Did you get the GGC from me? If so , it came with a Data Sheet how to wire it.

Dan
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 10:41 AM
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gm.cnc's Avatar
France
Joined Feb 2006
282 Posts
GMFC version 3.90.7

Hi All,

This version corrects few bugs and brings several new functions.

New functions:
- Spar filling (GMFC Expert).
This dialogs permit to cut a piece of foam for filling a spar hole as
required when vacuum bagging, see
<http://start1g.ovh.net/~gmfcsoft/blog/?p=819>

- Block heightening (GMFC Expert).
This is a new option for a final horizontal cut at the height
of the block when shaping a block. This permits to align the height of
panel blocks when cutting a multiple pane wing.

- Foam slice cutter in the foam management dialog (all versions).
The purpose is to ease kerf calibration. After cutting the slice,
measure the height. The difference between the measured and desired
height is the kerf. This dialog is going to evolve and be yet improved
soon. So no tutorial for now.

- After cut suspension (by pressing ESC 2 seconds), there is a delay for
warming up the wire again.

Bugs corrected:
- bug in panel splitting.
- bug in saving .cnc project.
- bug in aborting commands sent to the GGC, when pressing Shift+esc for
emergency abort.

Enjoy,

Gilles
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 04:23 AM
Neal
Christchurch, NZ
Joined Nov 2004
160 Posts
Hi Dan, I want to buy one of the GGC units from you, and an LCD. Do you have a website I can go to to buy?

Also, a more general question, I am making a new foam cutter (again running GMFC). I am wondering if there is any point using ballscrews? Assume that cost isn't too big a problem, am I really going to gain anything over ACME (trapezoidal) screws?

My last machine used threaded rod and in GMFC table settings I had to set the pitch. The ACME and ballscrews seem to have a much more coarse pitch, is that a problem?

Free shipping http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Anti-Ba...item43a6da5ed7

Thanks, Neal
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 04:59 AM
Neal
Christchurch, NZ
Joined Nov 2004
160 Posts
Giles I want to cut a spar as I cut a tapered wing, so I go to Project / Spars... and pick lower round spar.

I can set the size to 25mm, or I can tick proportional, and it will reduce the size at the tip.

However I am using a carbon fishing rod as a spar, and I need to be able to enter the size at the root and the tip. I think the software should be able to do that, as it is a circle at each end of the spar, and cirles have the same number of points. What do you think?

Thanks, Neal
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 05:13 AM
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danfield's Avatar
Fullerton, CA
Joined Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotAir2 View Post
Hi Dan, I want to buy one of the GGC units from you, and an LCD. Do you have a website I can go to to buy?

Also, a more general question, I am making a new foam cutter (again running GMFC). I am wondering if there is any point using ballscrews? Assume that cost isn't too big a problem, am I really going to gain anything over ACME (trapezoidal) screws?

My last machine used threaded rod and in GMFC table settings I had to set the pitch. The ACME and ballscrews seem to have a much more coarse pitch, is that a problem?

Free shipping http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Anti-Ba...item43a6da5ed7

Thanks, Neal
Neal! Is that you? Dang, I sent you a note or two after the quake and no reply,,, had no clue how you were doing.

Send me a PM to danfield@roadrunner.com and we will get you going.

In MY opinion, Ball Screws would be a waste of money and or, not needed. Would they be nice, of course just over kill.

My favorite is Black Oxide Precision Acme Lead Screw, 3/8-10 2 start. If you are not familiar with 2 Start, it doubles the distance per turn, so a 10 pitch thread is equal to a 5 pitch. Works great. My router uses 5 start or two turns.

3/8 for a foam cutter speeds is fine up to 40" ( mine ) and should go OK a bit beyond. 3/8 for a router that deep would most likely not work, 1000 RPM and pretty sure it would whip on you.

Here we have McMastercarr.com They may ship to you, don't know but you should be able to get locally I would think.

IF I build another I think I will go Belt Drive on X

Anti backlash drive nuts, dumpstercnc.com Great stuff.

Dan
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 05:19 AM
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danfield's Avatar
Fullerton, CA
Joined Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotAir2 View Post
Giles I want to cut a spar as I cut a tapered wing, so I go to Project / Spars... and pick lower round spar.

I can set the size to 25mm, or I can tick proportional, and it will reduce the size at the tip.

However I am using a carbon fishing rod as a spar, and I need to be able to enter the size at the root and the tip. I think the software should be able to do that, as it is a circle at each end of the spar, and cirles have the same number of points. What do you think?

Thanks, Neal
GMFC will do this easily. untick proportional and enter your dimensions for each side. "I" think it's best to enter a number just a little over the spar so there is room for the glue and won't spread the core being to tight. Up to you to experiment what works for you.

Of course you know a Fishing Rod is made to bend right... :-) There not very stiff unless you are using one for 200 pounds black sea bass.
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Old Apr 25, 2013, 03:17 AM
Neal
Christchurch, NZ
Joined Nov 2004
160 Posts
Hi Dan, yes I'm back. Thanks for thinking of me after the earthquakes. My house is written off, so I get a shiny new one - you should see the workshop I have planned! Mother's house, sister's house also to be demolished. Half of the city a bit of a mess, and the cental zone (CBD) is still closed off more than two years later. More than 1200 large buildings have been demolished.
Just checked the spar hole thing. Giles has outsmarted me (not hard) and I see when I untick the box I can change it. I've always wanted a glider that flexes wings so I reckon the fishing rod one should be fun! Aiming for 5m wingspan. Will be a floater (-: Current project is a 6m glider build group. Building 4 currently but have been asked to build 12!
I'll check out the sites you have pointed me to. I didn't know you could get precision ACME thread so I'll check that out.
PM coming soon....
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Old Apr 25, 2013, 01:48 PM
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Fullerton, CA
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Glad you're OK and it all works out well. Will be waiting for pics on the new shop. :-)
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Old Apr 27, 2013, 09:53 AM
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gm.cnc's Avatar
France
Joined Feb 2006
282 Posts
GMFC version 3.90.8

Hi all,

This version corrects few bugs on the dialogs.

Enjoy,

Gilles
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Old May 01, 2013, 09:10 PM
Neal
Christchurch, NZ
Joined Nov 2004
160 Posts
Very exciting, the new board arrived last night. Thanks Dan! Also got the new GGC, so trying to find a link I saw to one someone had built with some custom printed lables.

Can't wait to get home tonight and get soldering. (-:
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Old May 01, 2013, 11:11 PM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jun 2004
5,877 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_S View Post
I've always been curious about why people use inconel with hot wire bows. What is so good about it ??

Yes, it has excellent high temperature strength, but our temperatures are really quite low compared to those in the sorts of applications normally associated with inconel (eg engine exhaust, turbochargers, gas turbine discs)
With Inconel you can run much higher temps on the wire. This is very useful when cutting dense EPP or other dense foams. I can run Inconel white hot over and over with no oxidation. It does get brittle after multiple heat and cool cycles.

Also, it doesn't expand very much under temperature like stainless or NiChrome which is an issue with larger bows and higher temps.

I can only get about 10 panels cut with normal Malin Hard Stainless fishing leader and can get hundreds of panels out of Inconel. Wire will break most often in the middle of panel wasting foam. Inconel is more expensive up front but well worth it.

Andrew
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Old May 19, 2013, 02:53 AM
Neal
Christchurch, NZ
Joined Nov 2004
160 Posts
Having a lot of fun putting together my new boxes. One for the Hobby CNC board and another for the GGC. I do have a question though.

I can run the bow power from either the GGC or Hobby CNC board, but which one is best?

Thanks, Neal
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