So, the hack kit, bearing and new voltage regulator showed up yesterday.

It took me about an hour total to disassemble it, remove the old voltage regulator, cut the casing for the programming plug, ream out the housing for the bearing, install the new regulator (and solder to existing posts), install and solder the posts for the programming plug, reassemble everything and upgrade the firmware.

Definitely not a hard upgrade at all, and I like the upgraded firmware better. One interesting thing to note is that messing with the firmware DOESN'T affect previously stored settings. I hadn't been changing much because I didn't want to have to redo it all, but it kept existing trim/dr/expo/etc settings for every model.

I changed the trim button settings so you have to press it for each step instead of just holding it down like stock, MUCH easier to fine tune the settings now. The finer and increased trim range is also nice.

If I were to do it again, I would skip the bearing upgrade on the steering wheel. It's a bit annoying to ream out the hole to get a snug fit for the bearing, and it doesn't really feel any different IMO. The bearing was only $4 so I'm not upset, but I don't notice enough of a difference to justify the 10 minutes it took to do that part.

If there's anyone local that wants to use my programming card you're more than welcome, but you'll still need the pins that go into the board soldered in first. Not sure where to source those as they came with my programming kit.

Been using this radio for a few weeks and for the money I don't think you can beat it. Could some one explain the hook to set up dual rates? (Never did get the manual ) thanks!!!

I'm a little confused as to the dual rates, since there isn't a switch to turn it on/off. Normally dual rates set overall throw based on a switch position, but dual rate on this seems a little useless since it has EPA (end point adjustment) as well.

You can find the manual here: http://site.hobbypartz.com/manual/FS-GT3B-Manual.pdf

Is there a timer of some kind? I time all my runs, no eagletree so accurate timing and mah put back into the pack gives me my average amp draw.

Thanks Wparsons! I don't think there is a timer but wish there was, please correct me or confirm

Nope, no timer on it.

I'm mostly using mine for cars/trucks, so I don't really care about timing runs. I'm ready for a break long before the packs are half dead!

i've noticed car runs seem alot longer than airplane runs, not sure if they are but they sure seem it.

Cars on average draw a lot less amperage compared to their battery size than planes do. Planes tend to carry smaller batteries to save weight, where cars benefit from some weight for stability.

Boats are the worst, they're amp hogs x 100.

Hi guys

got mine and need some help please

I keep getting the Low Voltage warning and the beep beep (lower than 9.5v) even with freshly charged batteries.

Does anybody else have this issue?

Thanks

JC

I know that the voltage of the rechargable NIMH's is 1.2 per cell not the typical 1.5 of the alkaline type, perhaps that's it. Also maybe you have a bad battery in the mix. Just ideas maybe I am totally off, but maybe not.

That's what I thought also......

However I used the sme battery in my Futaba FM transmitter and everything is fine. The Futaba transmitter shows a voltage of 10.6v where as the FS shows 9.2v.......

What type of batteries do you guys used? Does anybody use a battery pack?

I have always used rechargeable NIMH ones for my old FM transmitter without any problem......

Thanks

JC

My 6 month old (with lots of use) alkalines are showing 10.6v on mine, BUT I replaced the voltage regulator. I've read that the stock one kills batteries in a hurry, and also heats up with prolonged use.

Originally Posted by wparsons

I replaced the voltage regulator.

How much of a pain is this to do? Not a electronic wiz. Thanks

EDIT: HERE'S THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE VOLTAGE REG CHANGE http://www.overkillrc.com/GT3B/GT3B%...all%20v1.0.pdf

The whole process of tearing mine apart, installing the new VR, plug for the programming cord and bearing on the wheel and reassembling took less than an hour.

If you're comfortable soldering small wires in tightish spaces then you'll be fine. If not, maybe you don't want to try it.

The problem is that you have to snip the old one out, so if you can't get the new one soldered in the radio is useless unless you can find someone to do it for you.

I didn't find it too bad at all though, and I'm by no means a pro when it comes to soldering on circuit boards.

Thanks WP, does it make that much of a diff. In your experience?