HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 18, 2011, 03:22 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
The 8oz proto ballast is in and done, now for the final ones.
The final ones will have a point on the end that aligns and goes in the fuse ring to make install real easy. Slightly rounded was not to good.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 18, 2011, 03:53 PM
Pompano Hill Flyers
Radian's Avatar
Coral Springs FL
Joined May 2002
675 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kilwein View Post
This is a proto 8oz ballast, adjustable, the rod is held snug with friction O-ring to resist turning. Can locktite also if you desire to. Have for and aft CG adjustment of +/-8mm on this one. Have center cavity for filling completely up with lead-steel shot.

The final ones will be a 3/4in rod bored out with a threaded-cap plug on the filling end, have +/-20mm adjustment and have NF threads. Made the one below to size cavity and length of parts needed. This one is adjusted to balance plane at 90mm CG, can be changed easy, just a turn away.

This one is very easy to get in and out of the fuse, will see how a longer 16oz one is to install.
Also only one bolt to install, remove or switch sizes.
Looking at delron ring liner material so no metal to metal contacts on final ones.

EDIT: Machined two flat spots on the rod end for the servo tray and bolt shoulder to rest on.
I should have made this before I put the tow hook in. Would have been so much easier.
This is a very nice idea for a ballast rod.

In looking it over, could it be improved if the threaded rod was replaced by a sliding rod with a set screw on the base? This could allow for more "adjustment" and more universal fit for other planes.

Loosen the set screw and slide the rod in or out.... You could then have an adjustment up to length of the ballast tube section.

Radian
www.phflyers.com
Radian is online now Find More Posts by Radian
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 18, 2011, 04:42 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Hi Radian,

That could be done very easy. For this one I have steel shot inside so a full slider would not work to well. But if you make the ballast out of solid rod with a hole thru the center then it is very easy to do.

Tony


Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
This is a very nice idea for a ballast rod.

In looking it over, could it be improved if the threaded rod was replaced by a sliding rod with a set screw on the base? This could allow for more "adjustment" and more universal fit for other planes.

Loosen the set screw and slide the rod in or out.... You could then have an adjustment up to length of the ballast tube section.

Radian
www.phflyers.com
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 19, 2011, 02:08 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Wrapping up the 8 and 16oz proto ballast bars.
I can make the final ones now that I have the right size to weight.
Did not put the O-ring restriction in on the 16oz proto, will do on the final ones.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 19, 2011, 02:17 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
20,839 Posts
Somebody is a machinist by trade???

That is a very sweet setup, but seems a little over-kill. Being a guy that runs boats offshore for a living, I know over-kill is very good often times.

Simple is good too, is the reason that you didn't go with something more traditional to save weight??

Looking pretty sweet.

R,
Target
target is offline Find More Posts by target
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 19, 2011, 03:05 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Hi Target,

Thanks,

Prin elec eng by trade, but have been doing machining, welding, motor head, etc since before 4th grade. My dad was a heavy duty machinist-welder-millwright.

The way I look at it, weight is needed so how it is done is open as long as the total weight is correct. These put more of the weight at the CG point not spread out. Not sure if this is good or not. These protos I am throwing together just to size the payload so I can make the final ones and not have to muck around to much. Cutting the threads inside the tubing and outside end caps I only want to do one time. I have to get more material for the finished ones, so I may just try these out, they are fully functional.

Have to agree with you, these are overkill.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 19, 2011, 06:27 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
The Vulture is getting a part time beak protector.
Slipped the lubricated condom on, (sounds dirty!) added glass strips with carbon tow in-between layers.
1/2 oz and 1/4oz glass layups used to conform to the beak and nose.
Using 2oz of 20 minute epoxy to allow time to work the glass. Some of this will be trimmed off.
Making the bottom side ~6in long and the beak wraps around for the first ~1.5in. Will remove and trim after the expoxy sets and it is ready to cut and grind. Will cut down to ~4in long and a wrap around on the nose of ~3/4-1in. This is just to protect the bottom for the short slides, I do not plan on doing lawn dart landings with it.
Will have final weight and shape after expoxy cures and it gets cut to size.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 21, 2011, 08:22 AM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Not a lot of time with other activities and things going on right now.
Here is the first rough cut on the skeg or nose protector.
Not really a skeg as much as a protector of the bottom side.
Still have more to cut but need to grind it off now verses a scissor cutting it.
Under 0.5oz and will be less after more gets cut off and sanded smooth. Using tape is probably better but this was a chance to do a little glassing.
May end up with tape who knows.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 21, 2011, 08:49 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Time to sand it a bit, paint it and be done.
Not going for a smooth finish as it will just get scrapped up.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 21, 2011, 09:53 PM
Registered User
laryctdummy's Avatar
colorado
Joined Apr 2009
97 Posts
Sweet! Tony... Great idea!!!!
laryctdummy is offline Find More Posts by laryctdummy
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 22, 2011, 06:47 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
The Vulture gets a red beak.
Painted and done, ready to tape on.
Not a glassy smooth finish but don't care, hopefully it will get scarred up over many landing's.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 22, 2011, 07:04 PM
Registered User
laryctdummy's Avatar
colorado
Joined Apr 2009
97 Posts
RED? Oh you made that for me.... Thanks dude!
laryctdummy is offline Find More Posts by laryctdummy
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 28, 2011, 09:11 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
Got the first hand toss in sunday. Had a slight breeze-wind going at the time.
The throw by laryctdummy (Joe) was a medium toss into the wind. Went ~200ft before landing straight out. It went straight and level side to side, as the wind gusts hit I used some elevator to keep level but found it was a bit sensitive - to much throw, backing some travel off for now. No trim needed on the ailerons, hard to say on the elevator. Will get more time during the week after work. Still need to check the CG but it looks reasonable or not to far off. Will do more tuning as I get more time on it. First very short test flight was uneventfull. I think I will be glad I built the ballast for windy days.
Another toss or two and then the hi-start.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 01, 2011, 09:50 PM
Registered User
kilwein's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
644 Posts
The vtail surfaces were a little sloppy due to some control rod flex at the servo end. This was due to the rods bending at the servo end when pushing down on the vtail surfaces, it would also bend slightly when using the servos to push the surfaces in a up elevator position.
Fixed this with two small balsa blocks and some CA glue. Let the balsa soak some thin ca up and then medium ca to glue all together. Thinking of a small strip of glass ca'ed over it all, for extra strength. I am sure there are better ways to do but this was quick and light. I am open to ideas on this. There is no resistance in the rods thru the entire servo movement and it looks to be working so far. The vtail surfaces are slop free-tight now. Servos shown in full back movement. Tomorrow may be the next real flights.
kilwein is offline Find More Posts by kilwein
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 01, 2011, 10:12 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
20,839 Posts
Hi, Tony-

Dang, get that thing up and specked out already!

The last two surfaces you want to double center:
1. Left ruddervator
2. Right ruddervator

So, you have done the right thing, and yes, a wrap of glass around all of it, and onto the inside of the fuse, is again the right thing to do.

Get that thing launched!

R,
Target
target is offline Find More Posts by target
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale Skip Miller Models Garage SALE! cody303 Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 9 Mar 11, 2011 10:12 AM
Cool New RnR MXC from Skip Miller Models thermal145 Cross Country Soaring 12 Jan 28, 2011 02:18 PM
For Sale Skip Miller Models Garage SALE! cody303 Aircraft - General - Radio Equipment (FS/W) 0 Jan 21, 2011 05:07 PM
Skip Miller Models Tom Gressman Vendor Talk 5 Jan 19, 2006 02:08 PM