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Old Feb 04, 2011, 06:59 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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Happy to help, one builder to another.
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 08:38 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
650 Posts
Hi Target,

Went with small plastic tubing, 1/8 tubing is close on one side.
I used some CA on the ends to seal and strengthen some.
Will use some small carbon tow on edges to strengthen a bit.
Now for some yellow tape.

EDIT:
Weighed the parts, added under 0.2grams including glue and 1/4 strip tape on outside..
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Last edited by kilwein; Feb 04, 2011 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 09:31 PM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Hi Tony,
After trying different configurations on the wiring harness and the d9 connector, I found this to work very well without removing excessive
material or impacting the top skin of the center section as there is not
much space between the recessed cutout and the top skin, just one of
many ways I am sure it could be done, hope this helps you.

Phil
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 09:38 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
650 Posts
Hi Phil,

We are thinking the same. I put some epoxy under-around the connector to beef up a bit. Wiring harness is done at DB9 and checked out on the flaps.
Working the tip connectors tomorrow.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Hallford View Post
Hi Tony,
After trying different configurations on the wiring harness and the d9 connector, I found this to work very well without removing excessive
material or impacting the top skin of the center section as there is not
much space between the recessed cutout and the top skin, just one of
many ways I am sure it could be done, hope this helps you.

Phil
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 10:32 PM
"Get 'er Up"
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Wichita, KS
Joined Nov 2008
104 Posts
Watching with interest as I start my Vulture build. Thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 10:43 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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Looks good; I like the fuse cap, that is what I had in mind roughly. Great job.

R,
Target
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 10:46 PM
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Vista, CA
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I have one of these as well. I flew it for the first time a couple of weeks ago on a solid overcast day at Visalia. It was generally buoyant air with occasional very weak thermals. I had not seen any set up documentation so I started from scratch with the cg and surface throws. It only took a few flights to get it probably 80% dialed in. I was very impressed with how coordinated and balanced the plane was. When put in a thermal turn, it did not require much correction to keep it there. I neither fell out nor into the turn. With those huge control surfaces, you don't have to move them very far to get a response. It was very responsive and fun to fly.

I have not yet flown it in active air, so I must reserve my final judgement until that time. I may have to move the cg forward when the air gets bumpy as it is currently back at the tow hook and the tow hook is as far back as it will go. I think that is about 105 mm which is considerably behind the recommended cg. I am not one of those guys that typically likes a rearward cg, so that may just go to show how large the tail is that I can fly it that far back. I will say that it has the most effective rudder of any TD plane I have ever flown.

Quality wise, it is about what I expected. Not great, but not bad either. The wing panels and tails fit much better than I expected and the wing joiner fit was perfect. (The joiners were marked for where they go so they had obviously been hand fitted.) I would prefer the flap and aileron control horns to be longer as I am using the shortest horns on JR 378 servos and still not using much travel. The wings are all glass behind the spar with carbon spars. I can't really see how it is constructed if front of the spars.The fuselage is glass in front of the wing and carbon from the wing saddle back. Other than the wing and tail skins being relatively easy to ding, the plane appears to be very strong.

Hopefully I can get out this weekend to fly it in some active air so that I can make some fair comparisons with other planes. It feels great to be flying a v tail again, it just looks so cool in the air.

Rick
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 10:51 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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What is your RTF weight, Rick?
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Old Feb 04, 2011, 10:56 PM
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Vista, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by target View Post
What is your RTF weight, Rick?
I have no idea. Maybe I'll weigh it this weekend. It feels like a real lump when I pick it up but flies really light.
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 03:13 AM
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Vista, CA
Joined Jan 2004
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Weighed on my triple balance beam gram scale, my Vulture currently weighs 2258 grams or 79.6 ounces. It has about 4 ounces of lead in the nose now and may need another ounce when I finally get to fly it in some turbulent air. I made no attempt to build light, it was just a quick build using whatever I already had laying around in the shop. I bought this plane so I would have something to fly locally. The ground here in SoCal is about the same consistency as concrete 9 months of the year. So I wasn't concerned with building a perfect model since it is going to have such a rough life. And the plane is inexpensive enough that if I really like it, I can just buy another one to be my perfectly constructed, big time contest plane.

Rick
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 10:31 AM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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Roger, Rick.

That's not too bad. Servo selection etc, does add up too, but it's nice having brawny servos in a plane that you know will not have to be touched, too.
Maybe they can get different lighter tips for it in the future, as well, who knows.

I'm glad to see all the planes coming out that are made to save us money and still perform reasonably well. Its good for us, for sure, never a bad thing.

Thanks for taking the time to put her on the scale. It will be interesting to see what Tony's weighs when completed. Usually the first planes of any batch are heavier, and they get lighter as they progress a bit in production.

R,
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Installing the wing tip servo's.
Cut the control rod slots and rear spars, added carbon strips at the rear spar cuts. Sanded the slots and added CA to inside edges to seal up after the pictures taken. Now to glue servos in and let set until cured.

I cut the servo mount towards the main spar off, this is so I can get the servo as far forward as possible, this helps the top cover fit flush.
I used a 2-56 tap to clean threads on the clevaces. Makes the fine adjustments later easy.

Clean out the control horn holes, sacrifice a clevace for fit checks. see tool picture. I used a 0.060 drill, same size as the clevace's I am using.
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Last edited by kilwein; Feb 05, 2011 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 02:06 PM
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S.E. Mi. arm pit of MI
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Wish they made this in a cross tail version.
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 02:18 PM
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United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
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Kilwein, Nice job so far. Just one area I think you can improve upon. The ail control arm, for best results, the hole for the clevis should line up with the hingeline more in the vertical axis if you are going to mount the servo more towards the leading ede.
If you drew a line from the hingline to the ail arm clevis hole, that line should be close to 90 degrees with the control rod for optimum performance.
It looks like the ail arm is already glued in , so I would recommend mounting the servo more towards the trailing edge and block it with some ply to tie it into the spar.
From the looks of it right now, you will get more down te than up te for the same amount of servo throw each direction and it will be more prone to flutter when you are in reflex.
Try to get at least 2:1 servo throw/ail throw relationship. 3:1 even better.

Thanks for taking the time to show us your build!


This is for strong winching/f3j towing.
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Old Feb 05, 2011, 03:20 PM
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United States, CA, Novato
Joined Jun 2008
16 Posts
Wow,
I posted a simple question yesterday and got a great response. Thank you all. I'm eager to get mine flying.
Mike
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