Good points,

The servos I have set to minimual deadband. Will move pushrods closer to center servo arm as I finish the V-tail ball links in back. Buying them at lunch today.

On the existing tray you could just widen one of the slots and put two servo's side by side along with placing screw mounting block under servo tray for the servo screws. I think that may happen, Thanks!
This would also let you shorten the servo tray for even more room inside. You are right this has one wide fuse.

This is my first moldy of this type and wanted to go as the vendor had it setup. On future builds this can-will change from what I learn here. I may machine a plug for the mpx6 connector to fit in the DB9 location later. Easy to do.

I may be wrong on the servo tray being carbon, Did not get to verify this with the vendor yesterday, will try to find out today. Have this as a action item for earlier post by SJ.

Thanks,
Tony

Originally Posted by Tuomo

Torque is not a problem in v-tail servo, but dead band and resoution is. Shorter horns are better.

Vulture has quite wide fuselage. I would not install v-tail servos in line in center of the fuselage. Having them closer to fuselage side makes sraighter run for the pushrod and prevents the forward servo pushrod to intefere with the rearward servo.

Just as a personal note, I think mpx6 connecter is more robust and easyer to solder than the 9 pin connector.

Overall the Vulture looks like a very nice F3J plane. However, like mentioned before, I think carbon servo is not what we want with 2.4 radios. I see no problem with plywood servo tray, or very stiff fiberglass lamination, if the manufacturer wants to make it out of composites.

Hey Tony,
here's a short video of my third round of the Pam-Cup, Bulgaria with Vulture 3500, this is from website of Fritz Juker, a friend from Switzerland.

Vulture3500f3j (1 min 15 sec)

and picture




Cody Remington flight settings you can get from the site of the SMM. My not very different. I tried to fly with the CG to 94-96 mm in calm weather. Good work on the model.

Happy landings
Nikolay

hi Tony,
The servo tray is glass, not carbon, I installed 809's side by side.
allowed me to run shorter horns. Also found Du-Bro 256 threaded
ball links fit very well in the tail, make sure to glue or JB-weld them
in place, and the nylon link fits very well onto control rods. V-tails
really like to have the control movement the same and this is one way
to help acheve it by having the control rods the same length.
Phil

Thanks Nikolay and Phillip,

Watch for some tweaks soon.

I have a ballast idea coming very soon.
It would be nice to get your feedback when I get it done, as you have the planes in hand.

Thanks,
Tony

Hi Tony, my ballast is a set of brass bands 450x20x2 mm with two holes 5.5 mm /10 mm step in the front end. In the rear end brace them with duct tape. Put 2, 3, 4 as needed.

Regards
Nikolay

Hi Nikolay,

Just got time to watch the video, sounds like the wind was blowing good.
The Vulture seemed to handle it good. Did you have ballast?

I got the bug to get this in the air provided the weather co-operates. Not this weekend but next weekend it will be ready. Sunday morning is the day I get to fly.

I was talking to Skip and he suggested 6-8 and 16oz sets.
Have a design that is quick changing between weights and allows you to fine tune the CG. Next week I will have pictures of it. Will be making 8 and 16oz sets.

Just finished cub scout meeting here and have a honey do, so tomorrow will be more pictures and progress.

Hi SJ,

Fixed info to be correct.
The tray is carbon fiber, See Cody's answer below.

Originally Posted by SmokinJoe101

Work not done at factory is to meet price point... Is this considered 2.4 friendly with carbon servo tray? 2.4 install would need a little more attention to placement.

Looking forward to continued reports.

thx

sj

Originally Posted by Philip Hallford

hi Tony,
The servo tray is glass, not carbon, I installed 809's side by side.
allowed me to run shorter horns. Also found Du-Bro 256 threaded
ball links fit very well in the tail, make sure to glue or JB-weld them
in place, and the nylon link fits very well onto control rods. V-tails
really like to have the control movement the same and this is one way
to help acheve it by having the control rods the same length.
Phil

Hey Phil,

The nose is all glass, but the servo tray is made out of carbon. There is plenty of room in front of the tray for the antennas.

Cody

Originally Posted by cody303

Hey Phil,

The nose is all glass, but the servo tray is made out of carbon. There is plenty of room in front of the tray for the antennas.

Cody

As a newbie to 2.4, I have to ask, "what about when the plane is flying away from you?"

Won't the carbon tray interfere with the 2.4 antennas?

I guess you can just as easily say the same of the wing though.....

R,
target

yep,, 2.4,,,, not an exact science when your mixing different installs, wiring, servos, carbon types, carbon kevlar types, nose weight, voltage regulators, battery readers, and ballast types.

Basic Test:
Everyone should be doing a 360 walk around bench test, then a 360 walk around pre first flight test as recommended by your radio manufacturer,, with their new plane to see if theres a radio glitch. Then when your happy, fly the plane away and toward you and about as far as you can and still see the plane coming and going. Works for me!

Its the same test when we flew 72mhz.
Happy trails, thermals, Richard

Now back to watching the Vulture take wings!

Splitting time between machining a winch spool for a friend and finishing VTail.
Moved servo's side by side also, I like this better than down the middle.
You can do either with the servo tray.
Centered the servo's and linkage adjust and put one vtail in and marked the center of the ball link. See pictures.
Then removed the rods and re-measured the ball and linkage so I could cut the rod correctly. When done put all back together and verified good to glue.
It was good to go, so the JB weld came out. Sanded the rod end up a bit.
I drilled the brass coupler out with a 0.083 drill bit to fit the rod. Still lots of brass so no problems. Put JB in coupler and all over the rod end. Then pushed the rod on and pushing out the glue for a good fill. Waited for glue to set then gave the good old tug of war with the end to verify it is on solid. Did not budge.
Install linkages on the VTail ball linkage. Everything still free and moves smooth with servo movement. Cody recommend to cut the end off for easy removal of the VTail and linkage connect-dis-connect. I may do this.

Awesome thread Tony.

If you use a nice razorsaw, you can likely tape it back on when flying if you want and still remove it for transport.
A small section of aluminum tubing and carbon rod will help hold it w/o interfering with the rods and it coming apart.

When is the maiden?

R,
Target

Target,

Good Idea!

It will be done next week, I get a hour or two here and there. Not this sunday but the following if weather permits.
Also have to get the garage ready for girl scout cookies soon, the semi shows up, we are the cubard for the area.

Thanks,
Tony

Originally Posted by target

If you use a nice razorsaw, you can likely tape it back on when flying if you want and still remove it for transport.
A small section of aluminum tubing and carbon rod will help hold it w/o interfering with the rods and it coming apart.

When is the maiden?

R,
Target

Hi Bob,

Thanks, The way I figure it, the gang at boulder will have some stick time to critique.

Originally Posted by Bobalew

Awesome thread Tony.