|Jul 30, 2003, 10:45 PM|
Joined Nov 2002
Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
does anyone out there have one of these? this is the rtr from horizon hobbies w/dynamite .12 marine engine in it. trying to tune it for a customer @ hobby shop i work @ part-time. runs about 30-45 seconds in water & quits- sometimes quits as soon as put in water. i have lots of experience tuning airplane engines, helicopter engines & racing buggy engines but this one's got me buffaloed (sp?)!!!! seems to run ok on shore but bogs in water (too rich/too lean- don't know!) but quits abruptly everytime. if i richen it up, won't hardly 'clean out' it loads up so bad & leaned out, quits. i cannot tell if any cooling water is going through the head or not. suggestions are 'readily ' accepted!!! thx. in advance for anyone's help!!! don. austin
|Jul 31, 2003, 11:55 AM|
Are you trying to set this down carefully in the water?
When I used to watch the Hydro guys run nitro, they always tossed these in the direction they wanted them to go.
Sort of like landing a plane on a runway the nitro's seemed to need this flying landing so as not to stall out the engine.
I don't know if the 1/12 Miss bud was designed to start from an idle or not.
|Aug 01, 2003, 06:13 AM|
Joined Jul 2003
I have one also....
I have a Miss Bud also.....
I have been having similar problems. Seems like the drive shaft just doesn't fit quite right in the stuffing box. To take it out for the first time to clean and lubricate I had to pull it out the front....you know remove the engine/everything so I could pull it out. I cleaned it all up and made sure it moved freely and lubed and reinstalled it. Yesterday I took the boat out, set it into the water it putted around a bit, brought it back in. Then I got start it again and it feels like the engine is seized up, so I go home and loosen the set screw holding the drive shaft to the engine....the engine is just fine, its the drive shaft is siezed up in the stuffing box. I am going to give Pro-Boat a call today, I am pretty disappointed by this piece of fine China right now. When it does run properly it is a blast, but when it doesn't run....
New to the RC boat thing.
|Aug 06, 2003, 03:07 AM|
Re: Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
>Subject: Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
>From: don. austin
>does anyone out there have one of these? this is the rtr from horizon
>hobbies w/dynamite .12 marine engine in it. trying to tune it for a
>customer @ hobby shop i work @ part-time. runs about 30-45 seconds in
>water & quits- sometimes quits as soon as put in water. i have lots of
>experience tuning airplane engines, helicopter engines & racing buggy
>engines but this one's got me buffaloed (sp?)!!!! seems to run ok on
>shore but bogs in water (too rich/too lean- don't know!) but quits
>abruptly everytime. if i richen it up, won't hardly 'clean out' it
>loads up so bad & leaned out, quits. i cannot tell if any cooling
>water is going through the head or not. suggestions are 'readily '
>accepted!!! thx. in advance for anyone's help!!! don. austin
I have the Pro-Boat Nitro Fury.
The engine is the same, except in the Nitro Fury, the engine is air cooled.
I had real trouble getting the boat to run right as well. It runs better on the
rich side. I found, that after the engine has been REALLY broken in... it runs
much better. At times, when it wants to run "bogged-down", I need to clean the
engine out. I do this by *wagging the tail* to lift the prop outta the water to
let the engine rev up. Or bring the boat back to shore, and lift it outta the
water, and give it a few revs.
Prop selection is very important. Even with the stock prop, the thing
cavitates bad till the prop hooks up, then at times it will want to bog down
I would stick to the stock prop, as I'm sure they tested several to get the
right diameter and pitch.
After EVERY run, I take the shaft out and re-grease the stuffing tube... seems
I also just got a CEN Nitro Aqua Jet.
This boat has a water cooled .16 in it.
It has proven to be much more predictable to tune, and runs much more
consistantly. It also cavitates badly till the prop hooks up, but that can be
cured by careful throttle control.
Dan <--- Also fairly new to RC boating.
Been racing RC cars for over 7 years.
|Aug 12, 2003, 06:32 PM|
I just got one, took it out to the lake to break it in. This is my second nitro powered RC, first being a Tmaxx with the .15 in it. I burned up the Tmaxx after two gallons, used the Traxxas engine swap program to get a new .15, and traded it for an Emaxx. Did not think I would get another nitro after that, but the Miss Bud looked awesome.....
Anyway, I read an article on it, went ahead and installed a auto-bailer, stainless steel water outlet, wrapped the RX in closed cell neopreme, added a Bruline boot to the throttle linkage, yanked the drive shaft and lubed it. Got a freshly charged glowplug ignitor, packed a 1.5mm hex, 5.5mm socket, 4.5 socket, long thin flathead screwdriver, extra props. MC59 glowplugs, gallon of 20% nitro (Byron 12% lubrication), plyers, put on swim trunks, and off I went!
Took me nearly a hour to get the thing to run for more than a few seconds. I filled it up carefully, put in new batteries in the RX and TX pack, sealed up the radio boxIt went like this:
Gave it three short pulls to try to prime it
Put on the glowplug ignitor wait a few seconds
Short pull to start, it would start, die (maybe 2 seconds of rich burbling)
Next pull, ITS HYDROLOCKED
backoff the glowplug, short pull, start, tighten with ignitor, die, maybe 2-3 seconds, same old same old
pull the glow plug, remove the fuel line from the carb, short pull, see gas fly out of the head, yank, yank, finally don't see gas flying out the head, reinstall fuel line, and glowplug
install ignitor, short pull, start, die.................................
this went on for 30+ minutes, with finally getting it to run until I pull the ignitor. Another 10 minutes of this, finiseing the throttle, finally get it to run with about 1/2 throttle without the ignitor, button it up, it dies. Repeat until I finally get it to run but as soon as it hits the water, it dies. 5 minutes of this, and I finally get it to run when it hits the water. I tool around at full to 3/4 throttle, see water spitting out the side, and it is up on plane. Not really fast, make maybe 10 right hand ovals, and bring it in. First tank of gas, YOW, what a hassle. Check the temps, sitting at 110 degress, fill it up, glow ignitor on, short pull, starts, remove ignitor, button it up, dies. Repeat at least 5 times, finally get it to the side of the dock, give it a flat toss (holding it by the cowling/cover, just kinda lock the elbow, let your arm swing in a arc, ending about 6 inches off the water, right at the bottom of the arc, let her go) she takes off, right up on plane. Tool around at full to maybe 1/2 throttle, until the prop works loose. The exhaust provides enough power to get her back to the dock, no swimming this time. Tighen the inside set screw, start it back up, this time it keeps running (temp is at 125 degrees at this point) button her up, flat toss, up on step, complete the second tank full. Temp is still around 120-125 degress, fill her up, button her up, flat toss, she is up on step, noticibly faster, spraying a roster tail, the water is no longer glass, she is churning it up. Slaps over her own wake, looks pretty cool now , she easily turns at full throttle, and full Dual Rates. Slow her down, at the end of the run, try a few left hand turns, and start heading for the dock. About 40 foot out, I let is go below 1/2 throttle, and she dies, another swim for me .
Fill her up for the 4th run, goe thru the entire tank without incident!!!!! The temp is still around 125 degrees, lean out the high jet 1/16th, start the 5th tank, she is noticeably faster. Near the end of this tank, (which I would guess was less than 4 minutes) I get into the shallows, and bottomed out the rudder. Bring her back in, below 1/2 throttle she dies again, but the momemtum carries her within reach. I have bent the rudder, which is quickly straighened back out. I decide to call it quits for the day, hope to finish breaking her in this weekend.
Bottom line, it was a major, messy hassle to get thru the first few tanks, now it appears to be just messy!
I ordered an extra cowling, a VASA65 fits perfectly. Got a Mega16/5/3 brushless, I am going to try to EDF this baby!!!!
PS: Anybody know what the temp range is for the Dynamite15s???
PSPS: I am going to post this question as another thread, later.
|Aug 14, 2003, 03:02 AM|
Re: Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
>Subject: Re: Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
>From: jah email@example.com
>I just got one, took it out to the lake to break it in.
>PS: Anybody know what the temp range is for the Dynamite15s???
After reading your story, I see you are having all the problems that are common
to breaking in an engine. Break-in settings are WAY rich, which is a good
thing. However breaking in at the lake is a real hassle because you gotta
retreive the boat every time she stalls.
That engine will not perform right, and will be hard to start and stall
regularly until it's FULLY broken in, and running at the proper settings.
125-130 degrees is way too cold for any nitro engine... she's just not getting
up to running temp for you.
Nitro engines run best somewhere between 240 to 290 degrees. BUT again, you are
just breaking it in, so running cool as still a good thing.
I broke in my marine (water-cooled) engine on the bench.
(I got this tip from an R/C boating magazine)... Attach a turkey baster to the
end of a garden hose... on the end of the turkey baster, attach some silicone
tubing, and then hook THAT up to your cooling head intake fitting. Worked
That way, you can tune your carb as you go. The improtant thing to remember
when doing an engine break-in... is that you are "Heat Cycling" the engine. Run
the engine up to temp, stop, then rotate the engine till the piston is at
*botton-dead-center*, let cool... repeat.
You can usually "feel" when the engine is at BDC, but if you are unsure, remove
the glo plug, and look in there... rotate to BDC, then put a mark on your
flywheel so you can get there every time.
After about 5 or 6 tanks, you can start leaning out for performance. Until
that engine is broken in, and tuned properly... if you are running at the local
pond or lake, be prepared for lots of swimming. ;-)
If broken in and tuned properly, that Dynamite .12spd is a strong, reliable
engine, that should give you several gallons of trouble free running.
P.S. Engine break-in is really hard on glo-plugs. Once you got her broken in,
put a new plug in there for good measure.
(Whether you think it needs it or not)
Hope that helps.
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