Hello all
Could I have a bit of general advice please?

I have an FFIMU and a Flyduino on order and plan on using the HobbyKing frame http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16583

I had decided on either the Kda20-22l or Dt-750 motors but am clueless on the ESCs. Are these a critical component or would any 20-30A ESC do the trick?

Any advice about any of the choices above would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Mark.

Order some Turnigy Plush which suits your motor.
Warthox mostly use only 10amp versions!
Hobbyking SS (card programmable) should be good too.

Originally Posted by MarkM1964

Hello all
Could I have a bit of general advice please?

I have an FFIMU and a Flyduino on order and plan on using the HobbyKing frame http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16583

I had decided on either the Kda20-22l or Dt-750 motors but am clueless on the ESCs. Are these a critical component or would any 20-30A ESC do the trick?

Any advice about any of the choices above would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Mark.

i have one of this frames here!

the best thing with that frame are the parts coming with it - plastic screws and nuts, and 12 or 16plastic-standoffs and 2 battery belts..

the frame itself is very breakable, made from cheapest plywood i ever saw - it wont be alive after the first hard landing .
it might be useful as decoration, but i wouldnt recommend to use it for flying.

i used the frame to set fire to my barbecue-grill


there are better relative cheap but sturdy solutions

f.e.

http://quadframe.com/


or http://cgi.ebay.de/Mikrokopter-Quadr...item45faee4d16

You cant go wrong with the turnigy plush esc,s I have also used these with no problems RcTimer ESC 20A
And one of these to make programming them easier Hobbywing Program Card for Aircraft & Heli ESC

Just soldered everything and started testing. When I wire everything up like this I get no power to the FF:


If I plug the FF directly into the 4 I2C pins in the center of the flyduino, everything works great. The same is true if I take the the 4 ins from the sensor BOB and plug them into them into the 4 pins at the center of the flyduino.

So it would seem there is something wrong with the 3.3v, 5v, ground at the corner of the board by the lipo in? I am using a wire from my lipo to power the board.

Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro

Just soldered everything and started testing. When I wire everything up like this I get no power to the FF:


If I plug the FF directly into the 4 I2C pins in the center of the flyduino, everything works great. The same is true if I take the the 4 ins from the sensor BOB and plug them into them into the 4 pins at the center of the flyduino.

So it would seem there is something wrong with the 3.3v, 5v, ground at the corner of the board by the lipo in? I am using a wire from my lipo to power the board.

You power the bob twice: with 5V and 3,3V.
The FFIMU 1.22 can be powered with 5V directly. I just take the GND & 5V from the I2C row.

You'll need the remaining pins from the power row for sonar etc. later...
Can you check if you get appropriate outputs from the power row?

I'm powering the Flyduino from the ECS going to pin #2 on the motor connectors.
Therefor you need to solder a blob over the 5V/BEC pins next to the motor outputs. Works fine for me...

Yes I am powering the BOB twice. I dont have a meter right now to test the power row.

For what it's worth, Paul has okayed this diagram:



which shows how to power the FFIMU ... so maybe those pins at the bottom left of the board are only for power in? Strange that Paul showed them as power outputs in his photo which you posted ...

Cheers


David

The 5V pin is not directional, its the 5V line of the board, all Pins marked 5V are on this line.
If you go over the onboard regulator, tihs one will supply the 5V to the 5V line, if you choose your esc or a ubec, those should be connected directly to the 5V line.
As i said it doesnt matter to the 5V pin if he gets power on the 5V over the onboard regulator you can take out the 5V there, if you dont use it you have connect 5V on a 5V pin, but of course you also can take 5V from every other 5V pin then.

@3rdeye
Its a bit strange, there should be 5V like on the I2C row, its the same line?
You wont need the 3.3V in this configuration! i connected it only cause it was simpler to take the whole 3 pin connector.
And of course absolutely right, you only need the pins on the I2C row for the FFIMU.
It would be nice if can meassure the voltages on the 5V and 3.3V pins in the left corner.

I asked a question a while back in this thread about what should happen when you connect WM+ to Flyduino and observe the behaviour in MultiWiiConf.

It turns out it wasn't doing anything because our blue WM+ clone with ITG-3205 needed a few modifications to make it usable.

I'm posting this here as it seems the blue clones MP-V3.0 2010.12.08 are quite common and we had a really hard time finding the solution. Maybe this helps other people.

The post that saved us:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1437366

@Goofy23
totally newbee and newcomer on this thread which I was following since the begining, I bought yesterday from Flyduino shop the mega FC board and some other goodies.
I have still to buy the sensor BOB, but I dont know if I should buy the LLC one or the one without LLC.
I left a masseage on the shop, but didnt get anyreply yet.
FYI I expect to use yr sensor BOB with an Allinone IMU, not yet bought, for which also I dont know if I should go for the 3.3v w/o LLC or the 5V with LLC.
I know this IMU doesnt concern you, but I give you this information as may be, the choice of both are related/linked
Can you help me and inform which sensor BOB i should buy from you (LLC or no LLC?)
Sorry if I bother this thread with my silly question, but I dont know how to solve my dilemna.
Tks in advance for yr help and advice.

Paul... the GPS BOBīs showed up! Thanks! They are a nice piece of work!

Those are some huge dual-layer caps you put on there, though. What is the reason for those....

Jussi

@Goofy23
in complement to my previous post, I just received following reply concerning the choice of the Allinone IMU:
quote
If atmega use 5V supply you need board with LLC if atmega use 3.3V power supply you need board without LLC.
unquote
as I am not familiar at all with mulitcopter command electronics, I have no idea at all
if the atmega on Flyduino mega FC uses 3.3 or 5V
Can you pls inform me on that point too? tks

Apache74 I went for the allinone with LLC and the Flydusense without LLC, the allinone with the llc will then connect to the I2c direct on the Flydusense, the allinone board is side ways on comared to the FFIMU so the arrow on the Flydusense will be the wrong way around, mine should be here very soon and I will post some pics once wired up

Originally Posted by JussiH

Paul... the GPS BOBīs showed up! Thanks! They are a nice piece of work!

Those are some huge dual-layer caps you put on there, though. What is the reason for those....

Jussi

The caps are used instead of a backup battery so you don't need a cold fix every time you change the lipos.