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Old Jan 14, 2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kinderkram View Post
Just pick it up from another solder pad using a wire - no big deal...
It are the lead solder pads where I should solder my battery. I know it's not a big deal. I could also solder my battery to the the side. Should that work?

Btw, to make this right: The quality of the MWC center plates are very good! It was me. So don't hesitate to buy one. It won't happen if you don't do stupid things

Thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jessestr View Post
It are the lead solder pads where I should solder my battery. I know it's not a big deal. I could also solder my battery to the the side. Should that work?

Btw, to make this right: The quality of the MWC center plates are very good! It was me. So don't hesitate to buy one. It won't happen if you don't do stupid things

Thanks
What di
stribution are you using?
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
What di
stribution are you using?


This one. The center pad broke because of something stupid I didn't think about. They are very strong those boards.. So again, don't be afraid. Won't happen to you guys!
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jessestr View Post


This one. The center pad broke because of something stupid I didn't think about. They are very strong those boards.. So again, don't be afraid. Won't happen to you guys!
Hi, thanks for the info.

You could try to scratch the paint off an area next to the pad.

Nils
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Hi, thanks for the info.

You could try to scratch the paint off an area next to the pad.

Nils

I don't understand how?

Note: all the messy cables are gone now + the solderings are clean now

Here this will be HD enough I think
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:42 PM
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I don't understand how?

Note: all the messy cables are gone now + the solderings are clean now

Here this will be HD enough I think
Paul, correct me if I am wrong, but I Think the paint is covering copper plating, so the area next to the pad should be + too. But you should ask Paul first. Alternatively you could solder 4 cables to the centerpoint but this would render the centerplate useless
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Paul, correct me if I am wrong, but I Think the paint is covering copper plating, so the area next to the pad should be + too. But you should ask Paul first. Alternatively you could solder 4 cables to the centerpoint but this would render the centerplate useless
Cant I just tape those pads so they are hidden (so nothing can touch it) and use the pads from the side?

Or I can also buy a new centerplate, to support Paul
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jessestr View Post
Cant I just tape those pads so they are hidden (so nothing can touch it) and use the pads from the side?

Or I can also buy a new centerplate, to support Paul
Go support Paul!

And next time you should use lower temperatures to solder the wires.
The shrinks of the connectors look like someone used a flame thrower instead of an iron.

I'm afraid you can't use that pad any longer but you can try to carefully(!) scratch off some paint and let a LOT of solder run over the copper lines left and right from the former pad and then tape or hotglue it so it doesn't rip off in flight.

Oh ... and use smaller washers under your srews/nuts. Plastic washers are much better. The copper lines are running in that area and if you accidently scratch them by pressing your metal washers too much you could produce a shortage - and then your done:
the lipo will start to burn, the copter will catch fire and your house will burn down to the ground. I'm sure you're Dad doesn't want that.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jessestr View Post
Cant I just tape those pads so they are hidden (so nothing can touch it) and use the pads from the side?

Or I can also buy a new centerplate, to support Paul
I did not know there was one on the other side. :-)

Just Cover it with sticky tape or some paint. use the other side and be happy ;-)


Nils
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kinderkram View Post
Go support Paul!

And next time you should use lower temperatures to solder the wires.
The shrinks of the connectors look like someone used a flame thrower instead of an iron.

I'm afraid you can't use that pad any longer but you can try to carefully(!) scratch off some paint and let a LOT of solder run over the copper lines left and right from the former pad and then tape or hotglue it so it doesn't rip off in flight.

Oh ... and use smaller washers under your srews/nuts. Plastic washers are much better. The copper lines are running in that area and if you accidently scratch them by pressing your metal washers too much you could produce a shortage - and then your done:
the lipo will start to burn, the copter will catch fire and your house will burn down to the ground. I'm sure you're Dad doesn't want that.
Love the "your house will burn down to the ground". sentence (I'll take care of it, don't worry)
My uncle helped me doing this but after all, I should have done it on my own.

I bought all new stuff that's why I wanted to remove those ugly connectors etc. It was bothering me that it was done so badly.

Btw. I'm going to support Paul and buy new ones .

About those washers, they are that big because I used aluminium "U" profiles. So if I would put smaller ones on it it woud break the board because it would pull itself into the U shape from the aluminium. I used them because they were like 100 gram lighter than the square shaped ones.. (but I'm working on my own fiberglass frame design )

And I'll change them to plastic ones Thanks for the tip.

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Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
I did not know there was one on the other side. :-)

Just Cover it with sticky tape or some paint. use the other side and be happy ;-)
Nils
Well there is no on the other side. I ment the side, where you can attach your esc's.. they are all connected so I can simply use that.

And I will fix it anyways, but still going to buy new ones to do it the clean way.

Thanks all!
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Well there is no on the other side. I ment the side, where you can attach your esc's.. they are all connected so I can simply use that.
Not exactly. You need to split the + wire and connect one each of the + pads left and right from that empty field formerly known as main solder pad.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Love the "your house will burn down to the ground". sentence (I'll take care of it, don't worry)
My uncle helped me doing this but after all, I should have done it on my own.

I bought all new stuff that's why I wanted to remove those ugly connectors etc. It was bothering me that it was done so badly.

Btw. I'm going to support Paul and buy new ones .

About those washers, they are that big because I used aluminium "U" profiles. So if I would put smaller ones on it it woud break the board because it would pull itself into the U shape from the aluminium. I used them because they were like 100 gram lighter than the square shaped ones.. (but I'm working on my own fiberglass frame design )

And I'll change them to plastic ones Thanks for the tip.



Well there is no on the other side. I ment the side, where you can attach your esc's.. they are all connected so I can simply use that.

And I will fix it anyways, but still going to buy new ones to do it the clean way.

Thanks all!
Bee careful with the currents bro.
I did this mistake on the flydubution, I connected the LIPO to a soldering pad that was meant for an ESC, you have four times the current coming through the the LIPO wires, in case of the flydubution it was to much, maybe this is the case at your centerplate too. This will heat up and you will loose a lot of energy as heat.

Nils
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kinderkram View Post
Not exactly. You need to split the + wire and connect one each of the + pads left and right from that empty field formerly known as main solder pad.
Ah okay, thanks for the info

Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
Bee careful with the currents bro.
I did this mistake on the flydubution, I connected the LIPO to a soldering pad that was meant for an ESC, you have four times the current coming through the the LIPO wires, in case of the flydubution it was to much, maybe this is the case at your centerplate too. This will heat up and you will loose a lot of energy as heat.

Nils
Actually I won't use it anymore after reading this. I'll just get a new one.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Pauls centerplates can take quite a hit when it comes to current :-) Close to 100A on my quad and over 100A on hexa, doesn't even heat up.

But I also used metal washers and burnt part of the distribution - be careful with that.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Pauls centerplates can take quite a hit when it comes to current :-) Close to 100A on my quad and over 100A on hexa, doesn't even heat up.

But I also used metal washers and burnt part of the distribution - be careful with that.
Ah, also thanks for telling me that. I'll change them as soon as I can (can't use my quad right now so np)

You guys are all great There's a dutch forum about rc too, went there once and never came back. They were just laughing at you and giving aggressive comments about a question. You can't find that much good forums anymore these days.
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