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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:32 PM
It wasn't me
r0sewhite's Avatar
Augsburg, Germany
Joined Mar 2010
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ESCs are Black Mantis 20A. The original tubing is much too strong and blocks the heat. Usually I completely strip the ESCs but this time I wanted them to be black so I took a thin hs tubing which is normally used for batteries. Flat width was 30mm.

Btw: This is the quad so far. I hope the blue LED strips to arrive tomorrow so I can finish it:

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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:38 PM
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United States, AZ
Joined May 2010
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appreciate the info, looking very good - nice and clean
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 03:12 AM
RTFM // copter damaged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0sewhite View Post
Black FreeIMU and black Promini on a black board:



The Promini is from DFRobot and works well. There are just 2 things to consider:
1. FTDI pin header is inverted so don't simply solder 90° angled pins or your FTDI breakout won't fit
2: A4 and A5 are not exactly in line with the board. Normal pins would lead to tension so better use copper wire.
black is beautiful nice and clean build tilman
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 03:56 AM
RTFM // copter damaged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinderkram View Post
Bllll!
Trying to make fun of me ole geezer, eh?
I'm still learning. Let's say in 20 years I'll be there where you were when you were young.
i just wanted to say that u work to much; u should fly more

Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
What does "Empty" mean here? How low are you going with the voltage?

I try not to harm my Lipos by setting the LIP alarm to a very High value but sometimes my charger puts 2200mAh into the Lipo, so it was totally depleted.

I should test the powermeter.

Nils
empty means that the quad is not able to fly anymore as paul said. see the end of the video when i picked it up at the end, i gave full throttle; nothing happens, this is empty

mwc quad // flyduino 8" cf prop testflight no2 (2 min 45 sec)
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:02 AM
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Any reason for emptying the LiPo? Surely this just damages the pack.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0sewhite View Post
Black FreeIMU and black Promini on a black board:



The Promini is from DFRobot and works well. There are just 2 things to consider:
1. FTDI pin header is inverted so don't simply solder 90° angled pins or your FTDI breakout won't fit
2: A4 and A5 are not exactly in line with the board. Normal pins would lead to tension so better use copper wire.
Hi Tilmann,

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this board running on 8MHz only? What cycle time will this result in (since this will give you only 8 MIPS instead of 16 MIPS when running on 16MHz)?

Rgds
aBUGSworstnightmare
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:09 AM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch View Post
Any reason for emptying the LiPo? Surely this just damages the pack.
Yeah,
I am not sure if this is too offtopic, but is it to far if my Charger says Capacity reached?

How do you guys time your flights?

I have two voltage limits but seconds after reaching the first I have to land or I deplete the LiPo totally.

Nils
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:24 AM
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I use a low voltage alarm and land as soon as it goes off. This seems to take my packs down within a safe range and I get good flight times.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:24 AM
RTFM // copter damaged
warthox's Avatar
Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch View Post
Any reason for emptying the LiPo? Surely this just damages the pack.
more flighttime - more fun

i fly till i feel that i loss power. in the case in the video i made it till the bitter end. normally i land when i feel the powerloss otherwise some seconds later the copter starts a autonomous landing

ive set a timer in my tx. depending on flightstyle i know about how long i can fly. in the cf prop test i flew almost always with full throttle to load the props most so i had no clue when the battery would be empty.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:25 AM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch View Post
I use a low voltage alarm and land as soon as it goes off. This seems to take my packs down within a safe range and I get good flight times.
I use that to, but as I said - there are seconds between the two levels, I think I have to adjust the levels

Nils
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthox View Post
more flighttime - more fun
heh a good response.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
I use that to, but as I said - there are seconds between the two levels, I think I have to adjust the levels

Nils
This could just be because LiPo have a steep voltage drop off at the end of their cycle.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 06:10 AM
It wasn't me
r0sewhite's Avatar
Augsburg, Germany
Joined Mar 2010
428 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthox View Post
black is beautiful nice and clean build tilman
I knew you would like it, Markus.
Since it's raining, I hovered it indoor a first time. Man, I could get used to the 10" sound.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aBUGSnightmare View Post
Hi Tilmann,

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this board running on 8MHz only? What cycle time will this result in (since this will give you only 8 MIPS instead of 16 MIPS when running on 16MHz)?

Rgds
aBUGSworstnightmare

Hi Jörg,
there is a 16MHz version, too. I found it on eBay last week when Paul gave me a hint. Cycletime is normal, about 3200.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 07:06 AM
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Deutschland, HB, Bremen
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Hallo aBUGSnightmare,

have you got a picture, that i can see the conection from the free imu to the board?

I have the new free imu and there is no pin for the 5V, only 3,3. i don't now if i can use another pin for the regulator?

I use the flyduinoboard with the flydusense 1 or 2

Thank you

Michael
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 08:26 AM
KK4NZS
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Virginia
Joined Sep 2006
1,484 Posts
Ok where are you guys getting your free imu's???.. any links or free imus ae appreciated
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