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Old Oct 11, 2001, 09:31 PM
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rscamp's Avatar
Dundas, ON Canada
Joined Feb 2001
1,262 Posts
Logo 20 at Last

Now it is my turn to get one of these puppies. Yes, my better half has given me permission to order a Logo 20.

I plan to get a Tango 45-08 + 3SLH 30-14-32 for motivation.

Local wisdom is that the only "Tuning Part" I would need is the carbon vertical stabilizer to help protect the tail rotor during less-than-perfect landings.

Would other Logo 20 owners concur?

Cheers,

Rob
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Old Oct 11, 2001, 10:57 PM
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Joined Sep 2001
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Hi!

According to Risto on this board, the CF elevator leaver upgrade is a must. Apparently the stock one does not deliver uniform swash plate movement.

I don't know if that is right or not because I got the upgrade to start with and have not used the stock one.

Search on the Risto username. He has a great web site detailing the building of his Logo.

Nick
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Old Oct 11, 2001, 11:18 PM
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Cottam Ontario Canada
Joined Mar 2001
19 Posts
Way to go Rob !
Isn't it a great feeling when the domestic overlords bestow upon us peons the privelage of dream realization. I still haven't touched my helis but maybe with your progress I'll be inspired to complete my projects and visit Dundas.
Happy Hovering
Denny
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 12:41 AM
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Fonthill Ontario Canada
Joined Nov 2000
72 Posts
Rob,

The vertical carbon fibre stabilizer is definately worth getting as the standard plastic one is just too short. It is the same length as the tail rotor blades and on a hard landing the blades get scuffed very easily. On one of my landings the tail pitch yoke also broke as the blades hit the ground too hard. I eventually made my own vertical stabilizer, see picture.
I have the same motor combination and on 20 2400 cells get over 7 minutes hovering.

Have fun

Andrzej
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 02:11 AM
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Lake Louise, AB, Canada
Joined Feb 2000
3,567 Posts
Congratulations Rob! The tail fin is the only one you really need to get. I like the aluminum mixing hub, but it wasn't necessary. I have the elevator upgrade too, along with the "outrigger" aileron pushrods,but I don't think it is relly necessary. If you follow the suggested pushrod lengths exactly (except at servos) and resist the urge to make the elevator horn level when the ailerons ones are (i.e. don't "think"), it works fine. If your flying is so precise that you actually notice that small pitch movement, then you could program it "away" with your transmitter.

Have fun!

Glen
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 06:21 AM
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Dundas, ON Canada
Joined Feb 2001
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Thanks for your prompt replies nullmn, Denny, Andrzej and Glen!

nullmn:- Thanks. I'll check for risto postings.

Denny:- Wow. Quite the Shakespearian prose! I haven't heard from you in a while and I was wondering how you were making out with your Shuttle conversion.

Andrzej:- Another local lad! Thanks for the picture. Sounds like you've got things working well on your Logo.

Glen:- No surprise to hear from you. Hope you have been kind to your Logo lately!

Cheers,

Rob
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 07:33 AM
Electrics rule
risto's Avatar
Bielefeld, Germany
Joined Jun 2000
437 Posts
As was written by Nick, I highly recommend the CFK elevator kit, not only because it gives linear swashplate movement, but also due to the fact that the elevator pushrod does not cross the motor shaft.

Other than that:
- do get GFK or CFK blades (Flight&Guide Anti-Gravity etc.)
- use PCM receiver and use rubber damping to mount it
- as you'll be getting a new kit, then you get likely one with lower antenna mounts on undercarriage - use the antenna to connect it there (see Mikado site -> Logo20 -> Tips for more information).
- CFK vertical stabilizator is nice, also higher yaw rate, but for hovering and just flying I do not consider it a must if the pilot is not afraid of tail-boom landings (usually do not happen).
- make sure you use thread-lock when building
- get the C.G. close the main-shaft (preferrably just slightly forward).
- trim the blade-tracking with half-turns on pushrods. This is important also for R/C equipment - that does not like shaking so much
- use Ni-Cd's and not Ni-MH's, preferrably Sanyo's 2400RC and inline SOLDERED packs
- use 4mm Gold contacts (I prefer Graupner G4)
- with Kontronik Tango, a KONTRONIK ferrite ring on the Rx wire is a must! (high switching frequency!)

Some info about building Logo20 (check Building steps):
http://www.mh.ttu.ee/risto/rc/logo20/

Risto
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 09:12 AM
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Lake Louise, AB, Canada
Joined Feb 2000
3,567 Posts
Hi Risto,

"I highly recommend the CFK elevator kit.....also due to the fact that the elevator pushrod does not cross the motor shaft. "

That's what prompted me to do the upgrade - I liked having all three servo pushrods close to being parallel.

Rob, after 3 crashes in 4 flights, I've been pretty conservative - nothing more daring than rolls a few metres off the runway Even though I'm pretty sure that the speed control caused at least the last crash by pooping out under high load, my confidence is "off" a bit. I'm not doing inverted hovers for now and sticking to easier stuff that I have lots of practice with. I've done about 30 flights since that "dark period"

Cheers!

Glen
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Old Oct 12, 2001, 07:32 PM
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Dundas, ON Canada
Joined Feb 2001
1,262 Posts
Hi Risto.

Thank you very much for your input. Guess I'll be getting one of those CF Elevator Lever thingys. I have 30 Sanyo's 2400RCs and 20 CP2400s just waiting to be made into in-line packs. I assume CF and GF stand for Carbon Fibre and Glass Fibre respectively. What does the K stand for?

Gosh darn the E-Zone is sure a good place to get information.

Hey Glen.

Three crashes in four flights isn't good. Things happen in three's, however, so you don't have to worry about any more crashes for a long time.

Rob
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Old Oct 13, 2001, 03:29 AM
Electrics rule
risto's Avatar
Bielefeld, Germany
Joined Jun 2000
437 Posts
CFK and GFK are German terms (sorry).
CFK = carbon fibreglass
GFK = glass fibreglass

Just if someone if interested then:
CFK - Carbonfaserverstärkter Kunststoff
GFK - Glasfaserverstärkter Kunststoff
SFK - Synthesefaserverstärkter Kunststoff - (+Kevlar (Aramid) etc.)

Risto
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Old Oct 13, 2001, 05:00 PM
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Dundas, ON Canada
Joined Feb 2001
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Thanks for the clarification, Risto. I thought I might be missing something. Can anyone suggest sources of blades here in North America?

Mikado recommends the 9 tooth pinion with the Tango 45-08. Is this what you fellas would recommend?

I guess the Futaba GY401 gyro would be a no-brainer...

Gosh, when I get the Logo I'll have two Tango-powered helis. That's good, because it takes two to... Nah. I won't say it.

That reminds me, is it true Kontronik is making modifications to the Tango motors?

Rob
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 04:12 AM
TeamTP,Minicopter,Spartan
misskimo's Avatar
Mississippi 31 years , Now Kotzebue , Alaska 12
Joined Apr 2001
7,454 Posts
hey,

when is the 10 coming out ??? got to have it soon . hu ? need time and some money ??? HU????anybody got any of that?????????????????? Tony
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 07:20 AM
rck
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Australia
Joined Oct 2001
108 Posts
....
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Last edited by rck; Apr 30, 2012 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 01:42 PM
TeamTP,Minicopter,Spartan
misskimo's Avatar
Mississippi 31 years , Now Kotzebue , Alaska 12
Joined Apr 2001
7,454 Posts
hey Robert

So , a logo 10 with out motor shipped to the USA ?????????????????????? thanks Tony
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 08:20 PM
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Dundas, ON Canada
Joined Feb 2001
1,262 Posts
Hey Tony. Why get a Logo 10 when you can get a Logo 20? A Logo 20 is 10 better than a Logo 10.



Rob
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