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Old Jan 28, 2011, 07:45 PM
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Lake Havasu, AZ
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Removing factory paint from EPO

I know there is a painting forum but it's pretty dead so I'll try here.

I want to remove the factory paint from my warbird - especially the invasion stripes as they are going to be hard to cover so does anyone know what we can use that will remove the paint but not harm the EPO?

Also, if there are any airbrushers out there - are there any camo stencils available (I know, I should Google it lol)
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Old Jan 28, 2011, 08:04 PM
Oh no, not again!
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United States, LA, Carencro
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Steve, spray oven cleaner does a pretty good job of bubbling up the paint, but won't hurt the foam. Try it on a piece of scrap first. Jeff
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Old Jan 28, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveclv View Post
I know there is a painting forum but it's pretty dead so I'll try here.

I want to remove the factory paint from my warbird - especially the invasion stripes as they are going to be hard to cover so does anyone know what we can use that will remove the paint but not harm the EPO?

Also, if there are any airbrushers out there - are there any camo stencils available (I know, I should Google it lol)
I would watch the Youtube tutorial by MoonBeam called "mustang makeover". He did a great job. As he does in his video, I would get some rustoleum car primer from Home Depot and just spray a few light coats over plane, then paint color/s you want. I did this w my PZ Gunfighter and I am very pleased w the final product. I had no issues w foam taking paint or primer. You were concerned about the D-day stripes not showing, but I have no doubt the primer can cover anything. Besides you need to primer anyway to get good adherence w new paint. Hope this helps give you some ideas. Good Luck.
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Old Jan 28, 2011, 09:09 PM
Brett
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You might also want to try using some sticky tape to see if that will lift it off. I've used this technique to remove pain from areas that needed to be glued on my EPO warbird. You might not be able to remove all of it, but I bet you can get a good portion off that way.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Lake Havasu, AZ
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Cool - I will give all 3 a try and watch the video

I'm going to spray with House of Kolor from their Military range so I will need to primer anyway - just prefer to remove as much of the old paint as possible first.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 05:08 AM
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A primer will cover the old paint and give a great key for the new one, don't try and remove the old stuff, it will just make a mess of the foam underneath.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by James321 View Post
A primer will cover the old paint and give a great key for the new one, don't try and remove the old stuff, it will just make a mess of the foam underneath.
On the new P-47 the silver paint very easily washes off with lighter fuel...that does not eat the foam!

cheers
Uwe
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 06:41 AM
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Lighter fuel !! Wow, I hope you don't smoke whilst doing that job.

Does the new paint stick ok after the lighter fuel has removed the old stuff or do you have to give it a good wash to remove the lighter fuel?
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by James321 View Post
Lighter fuel !! Wow, I hope you don't smoke whilst doing that job.

Does the new paint stick ok after the lighter fuel has removed the old stuff or do you have to give it a good wash to remove the lighter fuel?
...Only do that outside the house. After washing the paint off I usually wash all parts with warm water and a good amount of dish washing fluid, followed by a good rinse with clear water. The mail problem is that the molds are sprayed with some stuff prior to injecting the foam...and since we are looking mass production this stuff obviously stays on the parts when the painter comes along...There is a video on youtube somewhere where you can see how Hobby King Mustangs are being made...
The paint as such does never stick really great to EPO but with a good primer for plastic and good paint the results are acceptable...way better than stock!

cheers
Uwe
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by James321 View Post
...don't try and remove the old stuff, it will just make a mess of the foam underneath.
Not true - I do it all the time, and I use tape to pull it off.

Tape works very well to remove the original paint without damaging the foam or making a mess. I use cheap packing tape, squeegee it on with a credit card, and then pull it back off. With a little care, it can even be worked down into the panel lines to get the paint out of there, too.

Since EPO is impervious to most chemicals, even the laquer paint most of these ARFs are painted with doesn't etch itself into the surface. The tape simply lifts it off and leaves a clean surface ready for the next paint job.

One can simply prime over the original paint. But, I've had Krylon 'aluminum' enamel react adversely to the original paint causing it to look like aligator skin.

Not only is there a risk of paint incompatability by leaving the original paint on the airplane, but there's the extra weight of the original paint to consider. Stripping it off saves weight.

HTH,
D
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 08:42 AM
Oh no, not again!
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Almost forgot, once you get as much of the old paint of as you can, Duplicolor makes a clear adhesion promoter the greatly improves the adhesion of subsequent paint. I notice that my newer EPO birds are painted with something that has a fair degree of elasticity, like latex so it doesn't wrinkle and peel off as easily.

Jeff
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 69SuperBee View Post

One can simply prime over the original paint. But, I've had Krylon 'aluminum' enamel react adversely to the original paint causing it to look like aligator skin.

Not only is there a risk of paint incompatability by leaving the original paint on the airplane, but there's the extra weight of the original paint to consider. Stripping it off saves weight.

HTH,
D

I personally would never use enamel paint on a foam model, you're asking for trouble, it can make a real mess of foam Much safer with acrylic paints.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 02:38 PM
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I've used carb cleaner and disposable shop towels. It does take off the original paint, but it is messy, and the foam is "roughed up" with the odd bead missing here and there.

Next time I'm going to try Moonbeam's technique.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6606
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 02:46 PM
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I personally would never use enamel paint on a foam model, you're asking for trouble, it can make a real mess of foam Much safer with acrylic paints.
I use enamels almost exclusively with no problems at all, and have for years. Thinned 50/50 with laquer thinner for airbrushing, too.

The foam airplanes of today are not made of the same EPS (Expanded PolyStyrene) that they were just 5 years ago.

To prove the point, I wiped raw MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) directly on EPO foam with a paint brush, and it had absolutely no reaction whatsoever. No melting, no discoloration, not even a shiny spot.

I even painted an old GWS Me 262 (made of EPS) with enamles thinned with laquer thinner with great results and no problems at all.

In one instance, I even shot Duplicolor laquer primer directly on an EPO model with great results.

Depron is also impervious to enamels and laquers. I haven't brushed raw MEK onto it yet, but maybe I should.

Acryilics are fine for old EPS, fan-fold and other insulation type foams. But are certainly not required for today's EPO.

Attached are just some of my own examples.

D
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 69SuperBee View Post
I've had Krylon 'aluminum' enamel react adversely to the original paint causing it to look like aligator skin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by James321 View Post
I personally would never use enamel paint on a foam model, you're asking for trouble, it can make a real mess of foam Much safer with acrylic paints.
Re reading your post, I think I see where your confusion occured. That Krylon paint reacted with the original paint - not the foam. I've since shyed away from Krylon for adverse paint reactions and inadiquate coverage reasons.

D
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