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Old Jun 26, 2012, 12:35 PM
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Anybody put a radar gun on this plane yet??? I've seen reports of calculated pitch speeds of 58 mph,, but I know this plane is moving faster than that as I've had my FMS T28 clocked at 74mph, and this hurricane looks to be going at similar speed. I've only had a chance to fly her about 7 time now, and nobody was around who could clock her with my pocket radar. :-(
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 02:27 PM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airman74 View Post
Anybody put a radar gun on this plane yet??? I've seen reports of calculated pitch speeds of 58 mph,, but I know this plane is moving faster than that as I've had my FMS T28 clocked at 74mph, and this hurricane looks to be going at similar speed. I've only had a chance to fly her about 7 time now, and nobody was around who could clock her with my pocket radar. :-(
I will install my Garmin Geko GPS, an older hand held GPS that only reads ground speed.

I have used this device on my modified Great Planes Super Sportster EP with brushless power as shown in the following pictures:



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Old Jun 26, 2012, 09:39 PM
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At a warbird event I went to recently, I clocked one guys big wood spitfire at 107 mph running on 8s
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 09:44 PM
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To my eye at least this Hurri looks to be going at least as fast as my FMS 1400 mm T 28
Maybe a hair faster. Mid 70s is great on 3s in something this size!!! Plenty of speed IMHO
:-)
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 09:46 PM
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That sportster looks great!! By the way Pitt!!! What set up???
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 09:51 PM
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I know off topic,,, but pocket radar kinda fun as I can clock everybody's plane at the field. One guys multiplex funjet I clocked at 145mph running on 6s!!!!
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 11:44 PM
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USA, CO, Denver
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Originally Posted by Airman74 View Post
At a warbird event I went to recently, I clocked one guys big wood spitfire at 107 mph running on 8s
I took my dynam foam 1200mm spit to 105 on a downwind pass. It was running 5S with a PZ extra 300 prop. Proof in the (rather boring) video:

Cruising the spit (7 min 46 sec)
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 11:20 AM
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United States, TX, Johnson City
Joined Mar 2005
1,093 Posts
Maxford Retracts

Has anyone tried these http://www.maxfordusa.com/electricretract.aspx
it looks to me that they will not fit but I thought I would ask you guys.
This is the website for the Eflite Retracts http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...unit-EFLG20190
Thanks Ken Smith
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 01:11 PM
This area for rent
Vestal, NY
Joined May 2006
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Yesterday on my second flight of the day, which followed right after the first flight of the day, about a minute into the flight my motor started to make a high pitched noise and lost some power. I initially thought it was a dead cell in the battery. Got it down and the area around the motor was hot. After checking the battery , I pulled the spinner and the motor and mount were so hot that I could not hold my fingers on it. I unscrewed the mount and got it and the motor to hang out the front of the plane to cool. It was hot enough that I had to use a handful of paper towels to hold the motor while removing the mount. The speed control was warm but could be held in my hand without a problem, while the battery (which only had 1 to 1.5 minutes runtime on it) was cool/ambient.

Once cool I ran it and it sounded fine with no prop attached. I removed the motor and pluged it into another plane that had flown 3 times at that point. The motor ran fine so I left it hanging off the end of the table at full tilt for 30seconds. The can was untouchable again!

I figured I have a short in a winding somewhere so I checked the windings , what I can see w/o removing the can and all looks good. No discoloration yet?

What do you guys think?

Joe
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Hi all

What's the diameter of the stock spinner on the Hurricane, please. Mine is still in the box back home but I would like to check for a replacement spinner and a 3-bladed prop already. Any suggestions on a suitable combo?

thanks
Uwe
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 02:33 PM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paladin-34 View Post
Yesterday on my second flight of the day, which followed right after the first flight of the day, about a minute into the flight my motor started to make a high pitched noise and lost some power. I initially thought it was a dead cell in the battery. Got it down and the area around the motor was hot. After checking the battery , I pulled the spinner and the motor and mount were so hot that I could not hold my fingers on it. I unscrewed the mount and got it and the motor to hang out the front of the plane to cool. It was hot enough that I had to use a handful of paper towels to hold the motor while removing the mount. The speed control was warm but could be held in my hand without a problem, while the battery (which only had 1 to 1.5 minutes runtime on it) was cool/ambient.

Once cool I ran it and it sounded fine with no prop attached. I removed the motor and pluged it into another plane that had flown 3 times at that point. The motor ran fine so I left it hanging off the end of the table at full tilt for 30seconds. The can was untouchable again!

I figured I have a short in a winding somewhere so I checked the windings , what I can see w/o removing the can and all looks good. No discoloration yet?

What do you guys think?

Joe
Joe,

Sorry to learn of your troubles with the model's power system. I can say that if the motor was that HOT then, I would certainly contact Horizon Hobby and inform the Customer Service / Technical Dept., that you are in fear that the windings may have been compromised as they are held with a spot compound material that has a temperature limit. Not to mention the magnets that are held with a special epoxy compound as well.

Also, the noise (high pitched) could be some mechanical limits on the bearings of the motor as it reached a demanding temperature limit. Most likely you better check and suspect the ESC as this device "is" the one that does all the commutation for the motor and allows the motor to spin to an exact RPM and provide low Magnetic Losses, and minimize other hysteresis iron loss, eddy current loss etc. To minimize these loses the ESC has to be maintained at certain timing specification for the type of Brushless Motor you are using and in this case it looks like a 14 pole Out-runner type.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...#quickFeatures
Slotted 14-pole outrunner design

The ESC has the capability of Programmable timing using 5 user-selectable ranges for use with a large variety of brushless motors. Please note the following:
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...CInstSheet.pdf

Low Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 5 & 10
Motor Poles – 2 to 4
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 6 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)

Standard Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 15 & 20
Motor Poles – 6 to 12
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)

High Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 25
Motor Poles – 12
Expected Performance – Highest power, less efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency


I would make sure your ESC is set for High Timing Advance (14 Pole) and follow the directions per the ESC Manual.

Additionally, it would be interesting "if" you have a recent Castle Creations Brushless ESC (Auto Sensing) such that the ESC senses how many poles based on the input impedance of the motor it will adjust the Timing automatically. You may find other brands that do this for you. Testing your motor with another ESC will eliminate the Motor or not.
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Last edited by PittSpecial; Jun 29, 2012 at 03:00 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 02:56 PM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
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Originally Posted by Airman74 View Post
That sportster looks great!! By the way Pitt!!! What set up???
I had an early 36mm Hextronic HXT (1350Kv) motor that I got from Hobby City years ago but, it was just too HOT and model was too fast. So fast that the airframe started to come apart such as the Horizontal Stab. Fortunately, the Stab that came apart was not the one with the control horn so, I was able to land okay. Now it has the Himax 3625-1000Kv, if my memory serves me correctly.
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Aug 2011
58 Posts
Wing loose after a heavy belly landing

Gents - my new Hurricane isn't so new any more ! I have been doing belly landings as the grass is too long not to do nose overs and yesterday I came in too hot.
The 'radiator' caught in some tough grass and pushed back the front two locating pins in the wing so that there was a noticeable space between the wing and the fuselage.
Took the wing off, re-glued in place the locating plates in the fuselage for all the mountings but now when the wing is located back onto the fuselage and screwed down tightly there is lateral movement of the wing against the fuselage, ie the wing moves up and down as compared to the side of the fuselage, in the same direction as it would move when say applying aileron (but with the body not moving).

This is not massive but it's affected flight as its not as steady as it used to be and is similar to my PZ Spitfires's loose wing (after many many crashes) and
I really don't want to have to glue the wing onto the plane to steady this.

I am guessing that there is a standard way to fix these Eflite - Parkzone wing / fuselage joints after something like this has happened and I am looking for advice from people who have had to do this.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:34 AM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by trasher_can View Post
Gents - my new Hurricane isn't so new any more ! I have been doing belly landings as the grass is too long not to do nose overs and yesterday I came in too hot.
The 'radiator' caught in some tough grass and pushed back the front two locating pins in the wing so that there was a noticeable space between the wing and the fuselage.
Took the wing off, re-glued in place the locating plates in the fuselage for all the mountings but now when the wing is located back onto the fuselage and screwed down tightly there is lateral movement of the wing against the fuselage, ie the wing moves up and down as compared to the side of the fuselage, in the same direction as it would move when say applying aileron (but with the body not moving).

This is not massive but it's affected flight as its not as steady as it used to be and is similar to my PZ Spitfires's loose wing (after many many crashes) and
I really don't want to have to glue the wing onto the plane to steady this.

I am guessing that there is a standard way to fix these Eflite - Parkzone wing / fuselage joints after something like this has happened and I am looking for advice from people who have had to do this.

Thanks in advance.
Trasher_Can,

I really do not understand exactly what issue you are having without a Picture so, I am going to assume you have a gap between the wing assembly and the bottom end of the FUSE or in other words the top wing assembly and where the FUSE saddle meets the wing assembly?

Additionally, if the above "is" the case then, you are experiencing some flight issues because the wing assembly is perhaps shifting in flight, correct?

In the past, when a foam model has crashed terribly and I did not have the heart to throw it away and repair results were exactly what I have described above, I used an Adhesive Foam Reel product and it has worked very well in those earlier foam models that I have flown and crashed. The foam reel has adhesive on one side and this manner you can still detach the wing assembly from the FUSE.

Here is the image of one example:


http://www.toolking.com/md-products-...weather-strip/

Other Examples!




http://www.westmarine.com/buy/produc...l#.T_BfRPWo070

Hope this helps?
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 03:33 PM
This area for rent
Vestal, NY
Joined May 2006
897 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PittSpecial View Post
Joe,

Sorry to learn of your troubles with the model's power system. I can say that if the motor was that HOT then, I would certainly contact Horizon Hobby and inform the Customer Service / Technical Dept., that you are in fear that the windings may have been compromised as they are held with a spot compound material that has a temperature limit. Not to mention the magnets that are held with a special epoxy compound as well.

Also, the noise (high pitched) could be some mechanical limits on the bearings of the motor as it reached a demanding temperature limit. Most likely you better check and suspect the ESC as this device "is" the one that does all the commutation for the motor and allows the motor to spin to an exact RPM and provide low Magnetic Losses, and minimize other hysteresis iron loss, eddy current loss etc. To minimize these loses the ESC has to be maintained at certain timing specification for the type of Brushless Motor you are using and in this case it looks like a 14 pole Out-runner type.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...#quickFeatures
Slotted 14-pole outrunner design

The ESC has the capability of Programmable timing using 5 user-selectable ranges for use with a large variety of brushless motors. Please note the following:
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...CInstSheet.pdf

Low Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 5 & 10
Motor Poles – 2 to 4
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 6 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)

Standard Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 15 & 20
Motor Poles – 6 to 12
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)

High Timing Advance:
Timing Degrees – 25
Motor Poles – 12
Expected Performance – Highest power, less efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency


I would make sure your ESC is set for High Timing Advance (14 Pole) and follow the directions per the ESC Manual.

Additionally, it would be interesting "if" you have a recent Castle Creations Brushless ESC (Auto Sensing) such that the ESC senses how many poles based on the input impedance of the motor it will adjust the Timing automatically. You may find other brands that do this for you. Testing your motor with another ESC will eliminate the Motor or not.
Thanks pittspecial!

I had intended to try the different settings but this is what happen.

On June 28 2012 I was at the ARCS flying field flying my E-flight Hurricane purchased from jims r/c in Chenango bridge. The temp was in the low 90’s w high humidity, which I had flown in before. First flight went without mishap, std flight time was 4.5minutes with a 3.6 3s battery. I brought the plane back to the bench and switched batteries and took off again(maybe 5 minutes between flights, nothing I had not done before). The plane lifted off and started the flight normal. But 1 to 1.5 minutes in to the flight I started to get a high pitched bearing is to tight sound, and the power was dropping. Having lost cells on my bigger planes I assumed that was what had happened here and landed. Pulled the battery, which looked fine, but the motor and speed control were very hot, to hot to hold, to hot to touch, but would not boiled water (140-160degrees F est). I set the plane aside with the hatch off while I flew the other planes I had brought.

Returning to this plane an hour+ later I put a fresh battery in and while the tight bearing sound was gone at takeoff the power was not what I had seen in the 16 previous flights and before I completed my first pass the noise was back so I landed. I test fit a Turnagy SK2 3548-1100 I had in another plane. It fit so I test flew the new motor with the stock speed control the power was better but not what it had been. I tried a 4cell for the first time (2.2 4cell 25c) so I could not stay up long (I thought), the power was a little better than stock with a three cell but way under what I would expect. The 3 cell flight was 4 minutes (std flight time with the stock motor) and it took 1470mah less than half the batteries capacity, and it’s normal draw with the stock motor. The 4cell was a 2minute flight and the battery only drew 870mah, higher than what that motor drew in its previous plane (336ma/minute).

Lastly I replaced the speed control with the Dlux 70 the Turnagy SK2 3548-1100 had flown with in the other plane and 3 cell power was awesome, better than it had ever been. I ran that setup 6 minutes like I would in the plane it came out of and landed with no issues. That is 1.5 minutes past the dead stick time for the stock setup and both the motor and speed control were 10-15 degrees above ambient temp. ( the increase in temp was barely noticeable to touch.

In conclusion I believe that the motor was bad from day one, which explained why my flight lengths were much shorter than others are reporting at our field and on the internet, and supported by the instant increase in flight length with a substitute motor

Joe
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