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Old May 06, 2011, 04:57 AM
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Ball bearings arrived today. I used the 0.125 inch bearings in the most worn nut. The others I used 0.1245 inch.
Installed the Y saddle first, then its rail end clamp. Slipped the limit switch in, feed its wires through the end clamp. Lubricated the thrust bearings in the end clamp. Inserted the ball screw through the pulley, and installed the retaining nut.
The Z axis uses the same steps to go back together. Need to leave a wood block under the spindle to set it on, so it doesn't slide down and break anything.
The Y axis did not need the end clamp removed, since the whole table can slide off the saddle. So was a little less work.
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Old May 08, 2011, 08:28 PM
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All back together. Still a little cleaning to do, thinking about some paint.
Nice to have no backlash, and cutting round circles.
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Old May 12, 2011, 12:02 PM
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So is it the balls that wear in a ball screw? Do you have the same preload over the entire length of the screw after the rebuild?

Greg
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Old May 12, 2011, 08:55 PM
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My experience on other ball screws is the ball bearings wear the most. Some say the Nut wears the most. I always found that if the nut is worn, the balls are probably worn also. My Screw was not worn at all as far as I could tell, the preload felt the same all the way across the screw.
I will probably never use this machine anywhere near what it is capable of. I would have payed more care at sizing the balls, if I was going to run 150 ipm often. Honestly anything more than 30 ipm is getting kind of scary in a small room, this mill has some serious power. I have an aluminum guard for the front of the machine.
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Old May 14, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Didn't think about the ball nut wearing. If ballscrew is to be rebuilt, it makes sense that the screw is the hardest and doesn't wear.

I have 2000mm/minute rapids on my 12"x12" machine, but I never cut any faster than 500mm/minute.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 05:44 AM
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Painted the tooling plate to lessen corrosion. It will probably stay on for awhile against the steel table.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 09:53 PM
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Hello,
I'm trying to remove the spindle from my Prolight 2000 (it's galled and I need to clean it up). I've removed the pulley and tried to gently press it out of its bearings but it doesn't want to budge. Before I press it out more firmly (and maybe regret it), is there anything that I'm missing? Is it just a tight press fit into its bearings?

Regards
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 04:31 AM
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I haven't taken my spindle bearings out.
On other spindles I have done it can be a challenge, or go easy. Usually I had to heat up the spindle in the oven, to make it easier to press out. Sometimes it pushed the lower bearing out with the spindle.
You might get some info from calling Intelitek. Last number I had was 1-800-221-2763. Please post any good info you find. Might want to ask about the preload settings.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 03:38 AM
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I made a coolant spray mister. Based on the anti fog sprayers posted on the internet. Works fairly well. Will make a few adjustments when I have time.
To improve it needs a better venturi effect in the mixer block. If the air pressure is to high it lowers the water flow. Also, need to make a portable stand for it so I can switch between the mill, and lathe.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Hmm, do you have a link to what you looked at? "anti fog sprayer" didn't turn much up. I'll probably use flood in the lathe, but my mill needs some coolant now that I'm running more spindle power. I built a spindle for it a few months ago and cut faster than I posted above, up to 1000mm/min now.

Greg
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 03:16 PM
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I did mine more like the second link
http://www.machinistblog.com/zero-fog-mister/
http://cnczone.com/forums/general_me...s_coolant.html
I used a 0.029 endmill to drill the orifice in the tip, and mixing block. Used an 1/8 inch brass tube for the extension. Drilled an 1/8" hole through the mixer block, drilled 21/64" for the fitting threads. Used JB weld to glue the brass tube in. For the coolant feed I drilled a pilot hole 1/8" down to intersect the air hole. Drilled 21/64' just deep enough to tap the threads. After the brass tube was glued in place I used the 0.029 inch end mill to drill down through the coolant feed hole, and through the brass tube to make the orifice.
For the coolant container outlet I drilled the brass fitting through 1/4" to allow the tubing to pass through into the bottom of the container. Used a plastic compression ring, inside the compression fitting. Also pushed a brass tube inside the tubing to support it for the compression fitting. Hope that explains it.

Gkamysz, I really liked your web page description of the spindle. Some day I want to make a small spindle for cutting balsa, and engraving. I had purchased one, but was talked into including it in the sale of my small mill.
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Last edited by Roto Rob; Apr 20, 2012 at 03:08 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 03:47 AM
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Coolant mister is now installed on the mill. I have many parts to make this week, so I'll see how I like it.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 04:46 AM
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An update. After making many parts, I have decided the coolant mister is fine as is. The coolant oil mix is thicker than the water, this makes it work better.
Here is a short video of it in action. It is adjusted to be mostly air, so hard to see the spray in the video. And the gyro mounts it was cutting in the video.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...9&d=1343291973 2.67mb
I remade one of the mounts due to the hole in it. I didn't change the tool offset when I changed mills. Added a picture of the Gyro mounts test fitted on the Bergen camera mount. Now off to polish, and anodise.
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Last edited by Roto Rob; Nov 22, 2012 at 05:07 AM.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 04:31 AM
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An update on the comunications problems I was having with the mouse attached to the computer. I installed Windows ME. It works great, no comunications errors. Also, much better memory management, so can run much longer gcode files without splitting them.
This is my mills dos program.
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Last edited by Roto Rob; Dec 05, 2012 at 06:40 AM.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Is the surface finish on the vertical walls of the gyro mounts typical?

Greg
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