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Old Apr 29, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Just got a combat twister and it's nice to finally have a small indoor coax with real aileron control. I did search but never found if a bolt on solution was found to allow use of the longer balls. I am flying FP and CP now and this thing feels real sluggish and needs more throw on the swash.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 02:43 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Just got a combat twister and it's nice to finally have a small indoor coax with real aileron control. I did search but never found if a bolt on solution was found to allow use of the longer balls. I am flying FP and CP now and this thing feels real sluggish and needs more throw on the swash.
I've seen someone extend the guidance pins that hold the links between swash and blades, so the long balls on the swash could be used.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 02:21 AM
Brosol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Just got a combat twister and it's nice to finally have a small indoor coax with real aileron control. I did search but never found if a bolt on solution was found to allow use of the longer balls. I am flying FP and CP now and this thing feels real sluggish and needs more throw on the swash.
I used push pin rod, dental floss, CA glue to extend the linkage guidance pins.

I think rcstringfellow's mod is also very good:

rcstringfellow: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post21079254

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Old Apr 30, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Bravo sx hover problem

Can anyone help me? I put a new alloy hollow shaft,a new cnc swashplate,and some new metal mixer arms on my bravo sx.I thought it would make it fly better. But,now when Im in a hover the heli seems to go in a clockwise circle.I dont mean a circle where the front of heli is leading.I mean it goes in a circle nomatter what direction the nose is in.And when I first take off,before I get under control,the heli wants to fly backwards. I use trim to correct that issue.And another thing thats happening now.When I push the right stick forwad to make heli go forward.It doesnt go straight forward.It goes to the right while moving forward.It dives to the right as its going forward.And its vexxing me on why I have these control issues now.
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Old May 01, 2012, 09:14 AM
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when i put alloy parts on my solo pro, they caused more problems than they helped. i kept the alum shaft and head to keep from breaking blade pins, but the rest went in the trash.
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:04 PM
Different fly 4 different guy
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Canada, BC, Salmon Arm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippyheli View Post
Can anyone help me? I put a new alloy hollow shaft,a new cnc swashplate,and some new metal mixer arms on my bravo sx.I thought it would make it fly better. But,now when Im in a hover the heli seems to go in a clockwise circle.I dont mean a circle where the front of heli is leading.I mean it goes in a circle nomatter what direction the nose is in.And when I first take off,before I get under control,the heli wants to fly backwards. I use trim to correct that issue.And another thing thats happening now.When I push the right stick forwad to make heli go forward.It doesnt go straight forward.It goes to the right while moving forward.It dives to the right as its going forward.And its vexxing me on why I have these control issues now.
One of my little Solo Pro's has a metal swash and shaft, Xtreme flybar and skids. I use the HK 150mah OEM's and have easy 5 minute flights with power to spare. The stock batteries cannot handle the extra weight. It is actually more settled and easier to fly indoors and a bit faster outdoors, but the heavier flybar weights can cause some rocking like in the MSR. I am going to get some medium weights.

The metal parts are NOT plug and play. They require some patient fitting and adjustment to work properly.

Your circles are probably flybar related. Did you sand down the balls to make sure all links are moving freely? This is critical - your flybar must bounce a few times when you tap it.

Your other symptoms could be caused by installing the mixer arms backwards Make sure the long side goes to the flybar.

regards . . . g
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Last edited by gordonzo; May 01, 2012 at 01:08 PM. Reason: Just realized this should be in the Micro forum
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:10 PM
NE solo free spirit V2
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Mar 2012
137 Posts
Sticking the broken skids on the swash linkage arms was quite easy. There is a downside to the longer link though: you aproach the limits of the flying capabilities of the coaxial. To agressive turns and your heli will crash. It is more fun though

@brosol: honoured dude....thanks
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Old May 03, 2012, 03:15 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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As for the SX problems, besides that this thread focuses on the coax helis and the single rotor ones have their own FAQ thread, I would say, sounds indeed like something is binding, and that causes TBE, self induced circling.


@others, thanks for posting the pics of the guidance pins extension rods.
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Old May 09, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Just got a combat twister and it's nice to finally have a small indoor coax with real aileron control. I did search but never found if a bolt on solution was found to allow use of the longer balls. I am flying FP and CP now and this thing feels real sluggish and needs more throw on the swash.
I too received my Nine Eagles Combat Twister heli from HobbyKing two days ago and it has been a blast flying it indoors. It offers precise control and I am able to do a few tricks. However, can someone tell me or point to the correct source (thread) regarding:

1) How to remove the Nine Eagles style - T2 Twin Rail LiPo battery and use the generic Parkzone style 1S Lipos that have the JST-XH connectors

2) I do not have a wall charger for this type of LiPo, So I am charging via the Transmitter. It is taking about 30 minutes to recharge the 1S Nine Eagles Lipo (that came with the Heli) and is draining the Transmitter battery . Please share how long does it take you when charging via the transmitter.

3) Are the parts available for other Nine Eagles helis (Solo/BravoIII/Draco, etc) compatible with model?

The first page of this thread was useful. However, any suggestion/help is highly appreciated.
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Old May 24, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Flash battery problem

Hello
I have a Nine Eagles Flash helicopter and I have problems with the battery. Once(around 4th charging) I have put it into the controller to charge. After 30 minutes the led started blinking and when I put the battery back into the helicopter didn't do anything. The battery now have 0 volts and if i put in the controller to charge, the led doesn't lights up. What could be the problem and what can I do now? thank you for answers!
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Old May 27, 2012, 02:20 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndiaHobby View Post
I too received my Nine Eagles Combat Twister heli from HobbyKing two days ago and it has been a blast flying it indoors. It offers precise control and I am able to do a few tricks. However, can someone tell me or point to the correct source (thread) regarding:

1) How to remove the Nine Eagles style - T2 Twin Rail LiPo battery and use the generic Parkzone style 1S Lipos that have the JST-XH connectors

2) I do not have a wall charger for this type of LiPo, So I am charging via the Transmitter. It is taking about 30 minutes to recharge the 1S Nine Eagles Lipo (that came with the Heli) and is draining the Transmitter battery . Please share how long does it take you when charging via the transmitter.

3) Are the parts available for other Nine Eagles helis (Solo/BravoIII/Draco, etc) compatible with model?

The first page of this thread was useful. However, any suggestion/help is highly appreciated.
To be able to use the other connector, you need a battery connection wire and solder it on the board, or cut the current wires between board and stock battery holder, and solder the new wire onto that. Do observe polarity while doing this, the board has no reverse polarity protection.

30 minutes while charging sounds ok to me. With a wall charger it will be a little shorter, and not consume transmitter batteries.

I assume many parts will be compatible, but since very few people appear to have bought the Combat Twister, or talk about it on the forums, I can't be certain what exact parts are compatible. It would be nice if someone with both these and other similar NE coaxials would chime in here.
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Old May 28, 2012, 09:19 AM
NE solo free spirit V2
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Mar 2012
137 Posts
mia solo free spirit 210a

Hi,

Some pictures of my s300 coax, formerly known as green chili

Mod:
MIA s300 solo pro canopy + skids.
Solo pro 270 swash
I rotated the stock swash guidance rod 45 degrees. (filed of the tiny aligning thingy)
guidance pin thickened (see previous posts)

Why:
I really like the s300 look.
I wanted to get rid of my TBE
Sick of breaking the skids.

Pro's:
looks way coooool
no more TBE
Much much easier spot landings.

Con's
using 150mAh lipo's 3-4 min flight time
flying weight incl 150 lipo 34,6gr !!!
Heavy, heavy.

Anyway,

Let me know what you all think.
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Old May 28, 2012, 10:42 AM
Different fly 4 different guy
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I like it!

You could do similar mods to a Solo Pro or V911 and have a matched indoor/outdoor set.
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Old May 28, 2012, 11:43 AM
Brosol
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Canada
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@rcstringfellow, Sweet!!

I wanted to do that for a Bravo III. Its bigger motors should handle the weight increase better than NE 210 motors. I think my version would use CF rod & tubes to replace the metal Al parts to reduce weight.
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Old May 28, 2012, 03:08 PM
NE solo free spirit V2
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Mar 2012
137 Posts
Thanks for the reactions guys!

Actually the bravo III idea is a very good one. Hadn't thought of it. I thought the 210a, draco, combat and bravo III all shared the same engines. Read SPF's excellent FAQ section some time ago. Just reread it and indeed it says that bravo III's engines are different.

@ gordonzo: I tried it on the 270. Looks very good but you lose quite a bit of agility due to the weight increase. Incredibly how much impact such an increase has on flight characteristics.

on a side note: I'm starting to realize how good these things really are in stock setup. I love to fiddle with 'm but to say I've actually improved one.... Not yet anyway.
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