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Old Jan 29, 2011, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malden86 View Post
What a great post SoloPro, thanks for all your hard work. I got my Bravo III earlier in the week and I already broke a piece on one of my landing skids, I haven't crashed yet but had a rough landing. Does anyone sell upgraded skids or replacement skids?
You're welcome, glad to help.

Do you have the blue skids? The black skids are reported to be much stronger.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 01:49 PM
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Yes I did have the blue skids, I'll search around to see if I can find the black skids.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 02:17 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Double Post, didn't realize we were on page 2 already...
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Last edited by SoloProFan; Jan 29, 2011 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Glad you find this thread useful.

What color skids do you have? I am getting the impression the blue ones are more brittle than the black ones.
From my brief encounter with my new Bravo III (prior to returning it for a replacement..), the blue skids seem to be styrene plastic (i.e. model airplane type of plastic) which is very brittle. Back in my engineering days, we used abs plastic on the products that required any type of plastic material. It has considerably most flex and is not brittle. Adding color (outside of the default black color) to the material affected the strength also.

I'm sure technology has changed in the last 20 years and this may not be an issue with the color/strength today. Perhaps the black skids are now abs or the addition of color (white and blue) to the material is affecting the strength...
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 10:53 PM
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I have a quick question. Are the RX boards in this heli and the pro solo the same? If I had a working CX and took the board out of it and put it into a pro solo would it work? Does this board have the correct setup to drive the tail rotor and so on? Thanks.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 02:30 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeros View Post
I have a quick question. Are the RX boards in this heli and the pro solo the same? If I had a working CX and took the board out of it and put it into a pro solo would it work? Does this board have the correct setup to drive the tail rotor and so on? Thanks.
As of revision RX-01 all micros use the same receiver board, but it is programmed differently for the coaxials, since rudder and gyro has to affect both main motors, where in a single rotor one, it should only affect the tail motor. So it won't work, unless there is a way to re-program the board. But I didn't see any jumpers on it or so...


Added a question about receiver compatibility to this FAQ, as well as to the one for the single rotor NE birds, since it also applies there.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 11:25 AM
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USA, VA, Rustburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malden86 View Post
Yes I did have the blue skids, I'll search around to see if I can find the black skids.
Good luck seems all US shops that stock them are OUT OF Stock and have been for weeks... I heard that www.clubheli.com was gonna have them back in stock in a week or so, but that was 2 weeks ago.
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 07:04 AM
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Thanks for the heads up kablegod, I repaired my broken skid by glueing a very thin piece of carbon fiber to it and I reinforced the other skid in the same way. The carbon fiber was an old pushrod from one of my old RC airplanes, seems to be holding up very well.
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 02:33 PM
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Updated the part about the problem that one servo or throttle is not responding, explaining about using the easy mode 2 to mode 1 switching to diagnose these issues.
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 02:17 AM
Brosol
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I received a N.E. 210A Free Spirit which I purchased from Ebay using my B.O.B. HQ 852 fiasco refund.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...=STRK:MEWNX:IT


I've been previously flying 3Ch 6010. The NE 210A is my first 4Ch heli. Its a real challenge trying to in learn Mode 2 keeping a steady height & hover. Also the standard battery doesn't seem to last very long. I'm still learning hovering and trimming. I'm happy as a 4Ch noobie choosing the NE 210A.

After a couple crashes things that broke & damaged:

- cowling starting to crack & split down the middle seam

I fixed the cracks using duct tape on the inside surface of the cowling.




- the fragile carbon flybar flew off & snapped after hitting a wall

I replaced it with a HM-LM2Q1-Z Walkera Flybar. The replacement flybar is 16cm vs the stock 13cm length with adjustable length connect buckle. Snaps right in without modding. I reused the stock connect buckle as shown in the pics.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...=STRK:MEWNX:IT



Walkera metal Flybar Set - HM-LM2Q1-Z 16cm length


Stock & Walkera adjustable length connect buckle


To keep the flybar more secure I might sand down & drill a hole to use a metal pin.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...RK:MESINDXX:IT


- Front right skid leg just broke after a vertical drop on a hardwood floor

Will replace the fragile landing skids with EFLITE MCX skid set

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...RK:MESINDXX:IT


Other mods I did:

- used foil tape to fold out some motor heatsinks.


Heatsink, PKZ3052 Battery Connector, Turnigy 3.7V 160Mah Lipo


Pics don't show a smaller foil heatsink between the motors on the other side.


- Soldered a PKZ3052 Battery Connector to the receiver PCB so I can also use Turnigy 160Mah Lipo batteries & charge via Turnigy MAX80W charger. I can still use stock battery types.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...RK:MESINDXX:IT

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11341

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10980




Pic shows a thermoelectric (peltier) wine cooler sitting on top of the bench powersupply, I use to cool down helis & batteries after flying.


I also ordered extra parts off Ebay: motors set, rotor blades set, inner shaft, gear set
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 03:36 AM
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Is the flybar a direct fit that requires no modding?

Do you have a picture of the heatsinks installed? That way I can replace the current picture, that shows a Solo Pro tail motor, instead of this mod installed in a Solo coax.

The stock lipos don't last long, but the Hobby King "replacement" batteries do. So battery-wise there is no need any more to attach the parkzone wire and just add extra weight.
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 08:07 AM
Brosol
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Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Is the flybar a direct fit that requires no modding?

Do you have a picture of the heatsinks installed? That way I can replace the current picture, that shows a Solo Pro tail motor, instead of this mod installed in a Solo coax.
I updated my post with pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
The stock lipos don't last long, but the Hobby King "replacement" batteries do. So battery-wise there is no need any more to attach the parkzone wire and just add extra weight.
I like the option to use stock or parkzone type batteries. Also I hope the extra weight will help me maintain a steady height as I learn 4Ch mode 2 flying.
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Last edited by Brosol; Feb 01, 2011 at 08:25 AM.
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 12:54 AM
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Thanks for the pics. Some are a littly blurry though. Do you have a "macro" setting on the camera you used? That way it will get a better focus on objects very close to the lens.
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 01:41 AM
Brosol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Thanks for the pics. Some are a littly blurry though. Do you have a "macro" setting on the camera you used? That way it will get a better focus on objects very close to the lens.
No my cell phone camera sucks for macro.
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Brosol View Post
No my cell phone camera sucks for macro.
Can't you borrow someone's camera? Some pictures are usable, but others are almost too blurry to really help.


Possibility of using mCX parts for repairs has been added.
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