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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:37 AM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetCatJimmy View Post
I'll give that a try. Thank you for your input!
It took me about 6 or 7 flights to get most of the ballooning out. As others have said, I used a combination of upthrust and down elevator plus moving CG forward.. Have a tinker and you will get there - not sure it can be absolutely removed (easily anyhow) - I am sure someone has done it
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 07:27 AM
HAL... Open the damn doors!
jfetter's Avatar
Miramar, Florida
Joined Jul 2007
8,504 Posts
It can, this plane is different than anything else you probably own, you MUST trim it out for flight (glide) and powered (nozzles) seperately OR you will always have climb on power off OR dive on power up! It's just trim, that's it, stick with it untill you get it the way you want it ;-)

Jack
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:07 PM
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Munich
Joined Dec 2008
1,149 Posts
Hi there,

Quote:
Originally Posted by xviper View Post
When you hand launch, what angle do you hold it? Are you trying to actually get it flying from the toss?
Any angle works, as long as it is up :-). You can launch at 10° up and see it lose a bit of altitude, or you can launch at 80° and see it go almost straight up.

It does not need much of a toss. The more vertical you launch, the less toss you need. For 80°-up-launch, you need zero toss, you just let it float out of your hand (maybe with a little push on the nose, you don't want it to go from 80° to 90+ degrees, i.e. flip over).

Cheers,
Henrik
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:40 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
107 Posts
I flew it again today and wanted to get it back to a hovering-type setup - which means it'll be ballooning/diving on power changes. But the most important thing to me is the ability to hand launch it smoothly. By angling the thrust nozzles to take out the diving tendency it leaves you with the airplane wanting to rotate onto its back during hand launch. I've since put it back to neutral and will just remember that power ON from a glide will also require up elevator. It seemed to work great for me today.

I got the take off dialed in perfectly. Also was able to nail a beautiful flat spin before the battery started to give out.

I'm using a Nanotech 5000mah 65C lipo for that with the battery as far back as it'll go. The CG moves forward past the point that schiwo1 lists at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19350442. But it flew amazing. Smooth and gentle. Plus when it was time to land it cruised in beautifully with zero throttle and skidded about 25-30 feet to a stop on the grass.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 04:12 PM
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United States, NH, Rindge
Joined Feb 2006
29 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impailer View Post
It took me about 6 or 7 flights to get most of the ballooning out. As others have said, I used a combination of upthrust and down elevator plus moving CG forward.. Have a tinker and you will get there - not sure it can be absolutely removed (easily anyhow) - I am sure someone has done it
Hi guys. After flying my Mig for the summer (sevaral dozen flights), I have found that using Seb's stock thrust angles and trim and merely using some "idle up" before I toss her in the air solves any of that ballooning issue when taking out the throttle. She lands a little hotter is all. I have found that landing hotter and avoiding a harrier type landing has worked better for me. I'm still on the original nose cone - heh.

Best,

Dave in NH
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:32 PM
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United States, VT, Colchester
Joined May 2011
97 Posts
Well it finally happened. Does anybody know where to buy an airframe for these things? I'm not even sure I'm going to rebuild it. It's a decent plane but is expensive, quality is only OK and parts availability is poor. I can do 3D with any 3D plane so I'm almost thinking of building a nice fiberglass EDF plane. At least you can buy individual parts for those. Need a wing, buy a wing, need a nose, buy a nose.....much easier when it's not epoxied together. If I can get an airframe for $200 I'll probably rebuild it since I can't bear to gut it and have all those parts looking for a new home but I don't think I would spend $550 for another one of these.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 11:56 PM
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Joined Nov 2009
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Just buy the airframe version only.
Everything in there except Motors, Gyro and Servos.
Had the same mishap last year
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 12:12 AM
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Canada
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supertoyz View Post
Does anybody know where to buy an airframe for these things?
Quote:
Originally Posted by schiwo1 View Post
Just buy the airframe version only.
Doesn't answer his question. I'd like to know where also (just in case).
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 06:27 AM
HAL... Open the damn doors!
jfetter's Avatar
Miramar, Florida
Joined Jul 2007
8,504 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by supertoyz View Post
Well it finally happened. Does anybody know where to buy an airframe for these things? I'm not even sure I'm going to rebuild it. It's a decent plane but is expensive, quality is only OK and parts availability is poor. I can do 3D with any 3D plane so I'm almost thinking of building a nice fiberglass EDF plane. At least you can buy individual parts for those. Need a wing, buy a wing, need a nose, buy a nose.....much easier when it's not epoxied together. If I can get an airframe for $200 I'll probably rebuild it since I can't bear to gut it and have all those parts looking for a new home but I don't think I would spend $550 for another one of these.
Try Thunder Power RC, I was able to get a replacement ESC no problem, they stock parts as they are the US distributor for Sebart ;-)

Jack
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Canada
Joined Jul 2009
6,692 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerio View Post
xviper, my friend recieve my mig today. Now only waiting 11th september.
I can't believe it. It has taken 9 days for the plane to just get into Canada. USPS must have sent it by mule train. It's now sitting at customs waiting to be assessed.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Orlando, Fl
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfetter View Post
Yes, I can share the DX18 setup for the Mig. I've been banging my head trying to solve one minor issue that the DX18 doesn't seem to do compared to the 12x. The "Gear-to-Gear" mix (mix 6) which is used to activate the heading hold gyro when in mode 2 ("3D & Hovering"), wasn't able to be inhibited as with the 12x without making it simply not work and when activated, the gear channel was driving a signal even when the mode switch was in mode 0 or mode 1 ("Normal Flight" and "Full Rates"). This caused the gyro to never arm as the gear channel is only supposed to have a signal when the flight mode is 2 ("3D & Hovering") AND the gear switch is in position 1. So after a lot of thought, it turns out an extra mix was necessary, basically cancelling out the gear switch when the flight mode is 0 or 1, basically not in ("3D & Hovering") mode. So, hopefully that made sense, it does to me now after banging my head a tad. I am going to tweak it a bit tomorrow before offering it to anyone...

Jack
Did you get it tweaked out?
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:56 PM
HAL... Open the damn doors!
jfetter's Avatar
Miramar, Florida
Joined Jul 2007
8,504 Posts
Yes, I have the setup working as it should, I can upload it tonight. I should say to use it you should be using the recomended RX (number of channels) and channel assignments, as mine is and the mixes are setup accordingly. I'll add more notes later when I upload...

Jack
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Joined May 2004
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Today I received my Sebart Mig 29 from Atlanta Hobby. I bought as version 2 with a 65Amp esc. When I opened the box, as shown in print 2xesc of 45 Amp. Cliff wrote for now about what really is my version, I am awaiting response. Someone has version 2? How is printed on the box, with 2xesc 65 Amp?
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Canada
Joined Jul 2009
6,692 Posts
My Mig also got delivered today. The box also says "45 amp ESCs". However, it could simply be they are using the old box. I'm not ready to build this plane just yet, so without taking it apart and inspecting the ESCs, it's going to be hard to verify what they are. The side that can be seen from the openings don't really give any indication as to what amps they are. I'm going to be extremely disappointed and pissed off if they are not 65 amps. This was the only reason I decided to buy this plane now. I really didn't need another plane at the moment and certainly not one this expensive.
Can anyone tell us if there are any visual clues as to the differences between the 45 amp and 65 amp parts?
Please keep us informed as to what Cliff says.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Joined May 2004
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Tomorrow I will be on Grave's Hobby. They too receive the version 2. I will check the box and say.
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