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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:24 PM
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United States, FL, Port St Lucie
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Question
Best Way To clean A Motor?

I Just picked up a Saito GK ..Its pretty gunked up, valves exhaust etc..I have not run it yet. I was looking for a good way to clean out the "gunk" I have heard to put it in a crock pot on low filled with Green/Yellow anti freeze And let it sit over night on low..Has any one done this? Do I need to take the motor apart, take the carb off? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:43 PM
BFV
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I just did the same thing, heard about this method for years never tried it. It works great. I pulled the carb and glowplug and cooked it in antifreeze for 24 hours on low. Then a minute with a soft toothbrush and it looks like new. Test ran and oiled and stored until spring. Works like a charm.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:47 PM
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I have cleaned a lot of engines in the crockpot with antifreeze. I do try to take them apart to clean, at least in large parts, like cyl., cases, and such. If you need to do small parts, you can put them in a fine mesh basket, and put them in with the rest. I am not sure it will work with the GK engines, as every engine I have cleaned this way, it removed all the paint, although I have never tried it on a Saito GK engine. If it were me, I think I would take it apart, and clean the valves, cam, lifters, and cam shaft, with lacquer thinner, or some good solvent. Clean up the bearings, and if they are rusted very bad, or are rough after cleaning, I would replace them.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:54 PM
BFV
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Should mention all the engines I have cleaned with this method are two stroke and unpainted. Fourstroker and paint may be a different game.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:19 PM
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The other day, I cleaned up an old Magnum Pro .40 two-stroke. It wasn't completely gummed up - it would turn over slowly and the throttle moved without resistance - but the outside was disgusting.

Since it would turn over, but with effort, I took out the glow plug and put some 3-in-1 oil in both the exhaust port and the glow-plug hole, and flipped it over by hand a few times. It spun very easily after that.

I then turned my attention to the dried junk on the outside. I ran the sink faucet until the water was very hot, half-filled a bowl with the hot water, and then finished filling the bowl with Simple Green, giving me a still very strong 1:1 dilution of Simple Green.

I poured the Simple Green mixture onto the engine and used a spare toothbrush to scrub it, and before long, the engine looked like something I could be proud of, instead of an old gunked-up piece of junk. It now looks new to lightly used instead of old and forgotten.

I mounted it on a plane, screwed the high-speed needle in all the way, then back out two turns, and it started up easily. I have since found the peak and richened it slightly from peak, and found a good idle speed. I plan to test-fly the plane this afternoon.

I really like Simple Green, especially mixed with hot water, for cleaning dried castor oil off of engines, and I sometimes use it (cold) to clean a plane after flying. However, it will leave streaks on covering, so I usually use glass cleaner instead to clean the plane.

For a really old, gunked-up engine that won't turn over, I have found that a heat gun works wonders. It still needs to be taken apart and cleaned afterward, but a heat gun can get it to at least spin.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:32 PM
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She spins(a little too easy) I havent tried to start it yet..When I got the motor the case exterior was pretty clean, but the muffler was really caked up..when i took the muffler off and looked in on the valves they were just as bad..I dont know too much about 4S valves and how to adjust them after I take them apart.. So I thought the easy solution would be a bath....
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus3313 View Post
She spins(a little too easy) I havent tried to start it yet..When I got the motor the case exterior was pretty clean, but the muffler was really caked up..when i took the muffler off and looked in on the valves they were just as bad..I dont know too much about 4S valves and how to adjust them after I take them apart.. So I thought the easy solution would be a bath....
I'm def not a 4s expert, but an old engine like that, you'll probably have to readjust the valves anyways. I'd look into that.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Remove all rubber & plastic. Anti-freeze bath in a crockpot. Also works well for chainsaw chains, car parts, etc.
Seriously, it'll come out perfectly clean inside & out.
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 08:52 AM
Ron - AMA 1025
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cleaning

Having bought/used/sold 1000's of engines over the last 45 years, I would never recommend that anyone take an engine apart first. I have seen many engines ruined, some new, because of this. There are some that know how to do properly, but many that do not. I have seen many stripped/cross threaded/ wrong size screws, gaskets torn or left out, sleeves put in wrong, ect. Also seen many engines ruined by bad cleaning with antifreeze, carb cleaner, wire brushes, ect.

I use Dawn Power Desolver now and rarely take engines apart unless obvious damage or repair needed. Dawn usually works in about 20 minutes and is quick and easy. After cleaning I usually test run engine and most run fine after tuning, 4 strokes sometimes need valve adjsutment.

Just my .02 cents -
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 09:55 AM
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Ron, can you leave the carb on, etc with dawn? Do you mix it 1:1 with hot water as someone else mentioned?
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 10:00 AM
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WIll Dawn clean hard to reach Spots..Valves etc.?
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 10:04 AM
Ron - AMA 1025
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cleaning

I use the Dawn with everything on, sometimes even the muffler. Comes in a blue spray bottle, somewhat hard to find, I think some Walmarts and Ace hardware carries it. I spray it straight (undiluted) on the engine, let it sit about 20 minuts and wipe/brush off. If you have real heavy build-up may need to repeat or let sit longer. I always oil the engine internally and or run after cleaning
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 10:09 AM
Ron - AMA 1025
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USA, FL, Largo
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cleaning

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus3313 View Post
WIll Dawn clean hard to reach Spots..Valves etc.?
I doubt that Dawn is designed to internally clean engine, but should work to clean anything with carbon on it. I don't worry too much about the insides unless very carboned up or obviuosly broken. It is normal to look somewhat "brown" inside after years of running and usually doesn't hurt anything. I remember running an old Enya 60 for 20+ years without any cleaning or repair - and sold it on a plane still running good -
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 10:14 AM
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I Looked inside through the exhaust port Its really gummed up (thick and almost chunky in some spots) on the valve stems and exhaust port.. The inside of the muffler was just as bad...
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 10:31 AM
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The middle of Kansas
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Hey ronwc; I hear ya. I have replace cases that guys have tried to change brgs. in that were pretty boogered up. It is probably better for anyone that does not feel comfortable taking engines apart, to just clean them up the best they can. Most times that is good enough anyway. I have had engines that had not been run for years that the rod was stuck on the wristpin, and the only way to do them was to take them apart.

Does Dawn Power Disolver take off paint? I clean up a lot of old McCoy Red Head engines, and I always have to repaint the heads when using the crockpot antifreeze.
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