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Old Feb 08, 2011, 02:03 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6 View Post
2 kw is enough to put a grin on my face!
A few questions for you:
Is that lipo you ran a bit tired or new?
What rpm did you turn that rfm?
Did the motor get hot during the static test?


Thanks and have fun with it
LiPo is new. First heavy load run after cycling 2*4c, 2*8c and 2*20c.
Don't know rpm since I use a Suppo200. Have tried to decipher the wav-file in Hyperdyne to find rpm but I can't make sense of the readings. eCalc suggests somewhere around 8k rpm.

Not warm at all. Btw I have a MPI heatsink on the motor, and I did the cuts we discussed a couple of days ago. You can see it at the beginning of the clip.
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Old Feb 08, 2011, 04:17 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Gotboosted:
Got a question for you as well: I know you've been running the Suppo200. Any hints about it's capability and limitations would be appreciated!
And how is that 200twin working out for you?
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 02:34 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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RPM static

Thanks to Lord Murdnunoc I now have a pretty accurate RPM reading of the static test yesterday: 8230.
This translates to 125mph/200kph pitch speed and 9.25kg/326oz of static thrust out of 110amps/1860watts.
I figure that the 1.5kg streamlined bird should climb nicely, maybe 50m/sec or so?
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 05:07 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Why do I think Hotliners are great?

This is why...
F3X Viking-E Race - 4kW - On board video from Rakovnik (3 min 48 sec)


Enjoy!
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 05:17 PM
zoom zoom
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For the cheap and less then 180 amps the 200 is A-ok, the lack of decent wire size brings problems that are fixable with a wire swap.

With a wire swap, removal of the heatsink and removal/ replacement of the "heat tape"
between boards with Thermal grease they will soak up 300 amps~4-5s and the rated 200 on 6s. I haven't tested with duration only bursts so far but it is promising.

My beta "400" is functional right now. just need to do some testing before i start a discussion on it. I also am working on a 300.
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 05:29 PM
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that dudes vids are sick
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 05:37 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6 View Post
For the cheap and less then 180 amps the 200 is A-ok, the lack of decent wire size brings problems that are fixable with a wire swap.

With a wire swap, removal of the heatsink and removal/ replacement of the "heat tape"
between boards with Thermal grease they will soak up 300 amps~4-5s and the rated 200 on 6s. I haven't tested with duration only bursts so far but it is promising.

My beta "400" is functional right now. just need to do some testing before i start a discussion on it. I also am working on a 300.
Guess I'll be OK at my pwr level...for now, that is. Will be monitoring your findings on the piggyback combo. If you find it good and want to take orders, please note that I'll be first in line...

Thanks a lot for your input so far. I found myself grinding one of the shoulders of a 2mm quicklink tonight, just to make room for the movement of the link at the innermost hole of the Hyperion Atlas 11. Just one example of many things you could not possibly imagine would be necessary when starting to build this bird....
Looking good though, and I will be mounting the servos tomorrow.
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 06:41 PM
zoom zoom
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Which contest
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 06:49 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6 View Post
Which contest
This one: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10327851
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 08:19 PM
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k added my thoughts
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Old Feb 12, 2011, 02:56 AM
You down with EPP?
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That video up above is one of the coolest I have seen lately.

Very nice.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:15 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Houston, we have a problem!

Well now there's a challenge. One of the servo horns broke AFTER the servo was glued in place Just as I was going to clip on the quicklink on one of the wing servos the pliers slipped and I broke the servo horn.

My plan now is to cut out a part of the under side of the wing (see the second picture below), just big enough to get my smallest screwdriver aligned with the servo screw, mount a new servo horn and somehow glue the missing part of the wing back in.

Suggestions are MOST welcome!
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Id cut the shrink on the servo first before any surgery.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:32 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6 View Post
Id cut the shrink on the servo first before any surgery.
How should I get the servo back in? By grinding off the epoxy and glue it in place once over?

Makes sense, though...
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 07:37 PM
You down with EPP?
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I've seen this before. Cut servo out of the shrink, heat glue, scrape, dremel gently, sand, start over.


I wouldn't cut into that wing. The other way will be better cosmetically. It's a brand new plane.
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