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Old Jul 26, 2011, 12:32 AM
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Malaysia, Pulau Pinang, Tanjong Bungah
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Originally Posted by dilberto View Post
Hey sam, you can set your pitch without the gauge if you need to. For a long time i didn't have a pitch gage, but it takes a little trick to set it this way. There are some utube vids about setting up flybarless helis that help, sorry i'm a little tired so can't find them right now...

Basically, first you turn on your heli and get your pitch at about 50% (unplug your motors, turn on the tx and rx, and push your throttle up half way). Then if you turn both the blades facing backward (in the ship/storage position) they should be even with each other and about parallel to the tail boom. There is also one youtube vid that shows fbl setup using a piece of paper taped behind the heli with angled lines on it. To use this method you need to turn your blades 90 degrees from where they would be in flight (so that they make a Z shape, with the blade holders being the center part of the Z and the blades being the top and bottom of the z).

Using the pitch gage with the round object in your tool kit would be the easiest, but if you don't have the gage and don't want to wait for it, the above method works just search youtube for flybarless pitch setup and you should find it.
hi Dilbert,

Thanks! this is something new to me, and is pretty useful in times we not have gauge.. i will definitely search more on this topic...
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 12:44 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by sam1741 View Post
hi Dilbert,

Thanks! this is something new to me, and is pretty useful in times we not have gauge.. i will definitely search more on this topic...
no prob, i'm happy to help I got a lot of good info from here when i was starting out, and still get tons of good info, so returning the favor for the next person is fine by me if i get over your head with the terms and stuff feel free to ask. i know it can seem a bit overwhelming, but as i've been learning it more and more things seem to clear up (tho then i get in deeper and always seem to find even more questions.. )

by the way, i first got the v400, but then stepped down to the walkera cb100 for a while to learn my piloting skills, which was a very smart move for me. i suggest if you don't have experience yet flying 4ch fixed pitch then you may want to look into that (I had flown the tiny coaxial ones a lot, but the control is so much different that learning the cb100 helped a ton with the v400)
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dilberto View Post
no prob, i'm happy to help I got a lot of good info from here when i was starting out, and still get tons of good info, so returning the favor for the next person is fine by me if i get over your head with the terms and stuff feel free to ask. i know it can seem a bit overwhelming, but as i've been learning it more and more things seem to clear up (tho then i get in deeper and always seem to find even more questions.. )

by the way, i first got the v400, but then stepped down to the walkera cb100 for a while to learn my piloting skills, which was a very smart move for me. i suggest if you don't have experience yet flying 4ch fixed pitch then you may want to look into that (I had flown the tiny coaxial ones a lot, but the control is so much different that learning the cb100 helped a ton with the v400)
thanks.. appreciate all the help
i still pretty new to 6ch heli.. and also first time learning about v400 also
it is a bit different than general 6channel heli too..

i not seen cb100 yet, but there are cb180 fixed pitch heli at my place
but they are selling in crazy price.. (same or some are even more than v400 )
that is pretty insane.. i do saw solo-pro too .. and it is selling at crazy price too....
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dilberto View Post
Volt from V400 controller to "main motor plug/signal converter": 9.5 to 12.5
Volt from signal converter: very small so hard to measure with my cheap eqiupment, but about 0.007
Volt from brushless speed controller to brushless motor: max 3v
Hi Dilberto,

I went ahead and measured my voltages again. The red and black main-motor output wires from the Walkera ESC gives 0V - 12.55V as the throttle is moved. The brushless signal converter is a bit more tricky. Mine has a white wire on one side, a red wire in the middle, and a black wire at the other side. Measuring between the red and black wires seemed to give me 0v - 0.01V, but I cannot measure thousands of a volt, so I don't know if mine would give the 0.007V that you reported. Measuring between the white and red wires produced the same results as measuring between the white and black wires: 0V - 0.17V. I do not know if these are good or bad results.

Measuring the motor output wires on the brushless ESC was even more tricky. After booting the ESC, I pulled out the red and black motor wires, and then connected my volt meter. I was not able to find any consistent value, at all. Moving the throttle up from 0% would produce a wild spectrum of different values, some even negative, and then it would quickly dissipate to 0V. I could not get the 3Vmax that you got, Dilberto. I am surprised that the motor runs at all.

One of the interesting bit of evidence. When I throttle up the brushless, and the motor actually runs, when I throttle back to 0%, the brushless motor just keeps on running at the same speed for like 3 more seconds. I think my brushless ESC is bad. What do you think, is it the signal converter or the brushless ESC?
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Hey Navigator, if I had to guess it sounds like the brushless esc is the problem. Mine would fairly consistently go to about 3 volts when I threw the throttle, then work its way back down. Since you are getting strange voltage output when you punch the throttle, could very well be the esc.

For the signal converter, i didn't check the voltage coming from the white wire since it's the signal wire, but it sounds like your 0.01v on the red and black is basically the same as mine.

There are two things I can think of that you may want to check with your setup before you order a new esc.

one, make sure you programmed your esc so that the timming mode is medium, and the startup is very soft start (other than these two my esc came with the rest of the values correct).

two, check how your signal converter is hooked up. On mine the plug with the three wires didn't seem to have an obvious way to plug it in (could easily be reversed), so I just had to look at kdeans pics real close to tell which way he had them. I don't have mine with me right now or else i'd try to explain it to you, but kdean posted some pictures around page 60 of this thread (somewhere between 55 and 60 I think). My thinking behind this is that if the signal converter white/red/black wire is hooked up reversed, then basically it would mean the white and black wire are reversed. Since it would then be getting the constant 0.01v from the black wire (now in the signal location) instead of the 0 to 0.17v range, it would interpret this constant voltage as a constant speed needed. Just something you may want to double check... not sure if reversing that plug would damage the signal converter, so I don't really want to test it out on mine

If those two things are correct, then my next guess would be the brushless esc.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Hi Dilberto, I double-checked Kdean's photos and, yep, I have the signal converter hooked up identically to his. As for programming the ESC, when I first installed it, I was able to go into programming mode by attaching the battery to the brushless after the Walkera system was binded and the servos twitched. It will no longer let me do that--kind of like the ESC is jammed or something.

As for the timing, I had mine at the Low timing level. The motor seemed to stay cool at the Low setting. Should I have raised it to Medium? Would doing that raise or lower the rpm level of the motor?
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by navigator2011 View Post
Hi Dilberto, I double-checked Kdean's photos and, yep, I have the signal converter hooked up identically to his. As for programming the ESC, when I first installed it, I was able to go into programming mode by attaching the battery to the brushless after the Walkera system was binded and the servos twitched. It will no longer let me do that--kind of like the ESC is jammed or something.

As for the timing, I had mine at the Low timing level. The motor seemed to stay cool at the Low setting. Should I have raised it to Medium? Would doing that raise or lower the rpm level of the motor?
I'm not too sure exactly what the timming does, but I read a couple of different places that for this motor it should be on medium. don't really know what happens if it's on low instead. Since you can't seem to get back into programming mode, where you could before, it really sounds like a bad esc. Oh, and fyi, i bought another esc programming card since my first one was messed up, and that works. Programming by the controller wasn't too bad once i figured it out, but the card is easier.

One other thing just crossed my mind (and sorry if it's so simple i'm insulting your intellegence just by mentioning it but once this had me thinking i had a bad battery till i realized what was up). If you are using the 2603 tx, check the V1 knob on your controller. When not in programming mode you need to have this turned up, or else it will limit your throttle. If it's not turned all the way up then turn it up (clockwise) and see if that helps. When I was messing with the pit/plt and exp settings, I had forgotten to turn that knob back up once i backed out of the menus, and it had me cussing at my batteries for no reason
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 02:37 PM
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Hmmm, I didn't think the v1 and v2 knobs would do anything once the settings are saved and EXI is pressed. Right now, both my knobs are in the middle. But even so, the brushless motor originally worked just fine without doing any setup in the 2603. I think my ESC is hosed. I guess I should thank my lucky stars this happened on the bench instead of in the air.

Say, when you're applying thottle to your brushless, does your signal converter get super hot? Mine does. Don't know if that's a problem, though.

Oh yeah, you remember that motor for the CopterX 250? It seems that the motor will be too small for the V400, but it may be a perfect fit for my aging CB180D.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 03:05 PM
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The v1 knob is always active as a throttle limiter, unless your are in the menus, but once you exit it is back to limiting your throttle. I had mine at about 35% and couldn't get any lift. You may want to try twisting it up and see if u can tell a difference in your power.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 03:39 PM
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I was under the impression that the v1 knob limited throttle only when the D/R switch was on. I'll definitely check this out later when I get home, though. Thanks for letting me know about this.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 03:48 PM
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Hmm, not sure about that switch, it could deactivate it, I don't recall if I had that on or not and my bird is out of commission right now. Anyhow, one more easy thing to check, but if it's not that u probably need an esc... oh, I can't check my signal converter temp either since I robbed it of it's servos, but maybe somebody with a working bird can help u there
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Hi Dilberto, I'll definitely check that knob/switch issue later.

As for the signal converter, when I have mine connected to the stock motor leads, and then give it some throttle, the chip gets very hot to touch, no matter whether it's connected to the brushless ESC or not. Just makes me wonder . . .
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 05:51 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Cordova
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Originally Posted by barnstorm100 View Post
Hey thanks, on the blade tracking I was only working with one side. I'll try adj boths sides. I don't like to do half turns on the link but you do what you gotta do. I didn't think the main and feathering shaft were bent but I replaced them and new main gear also with new anyway. I was checking it again just spooling it up before it lifts off and its really wierd. It get worse the more throttle you give it. Its jumping more than vibrating. The head is.....well I'll make a video tonight or tomorrow.
Here's a video of the vibration. I know it looks like something is bent but I replaced everything except for the rotor head itself. I turn the bolt in the end of the feathering shaft and its striaght. The main shaft is new. I tried three sets of blades. Checked the pitch again this mornig.
V400D vibration (0 min 49 sec)
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 05:57 PM
rubber heli skills
United States, OR, Seaside
Joined Nov 2009
272 Posts
Vibration

Ok i bought a new shaft and am waiting for the new cf blades to show up.
I am noticing that now when i bind the heli-All the servos are twitching up and down. I have to rebind it 2 or 3 times to stop this from happining.The rx is turned around because shadow put sg90 servos on it and they are reversed. Could the antenna-facing the motor cause this and if so should i try to move the rx further away from the motor?
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 07:30 PM
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The Bahamas
Joined Dec 2010
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Servo Warning

Hey guys,

Once again walkera servos cause me grief and leave me on the bench with repairs.

I had my V450 out yesterday, and got 4 flights without a hitch. Took it out againg today and the first flight was perfect. The second flight started out fine, was able to get some loops in, and ran some ff circuts, i even did a roll. Then, while doing a circut about 40 feet up, comeing out of a left turn, the heli suddenly tilted to the left. I was able to correct but it then tilted forward and i lost all elevator control. So she went down face first into ground. As i picked up the pieces, i could smell the familar white smoke that came out of one of my other wk 09 09 servos while testing on the bench. And yes, it was the elevator servo that burnt.

Damage includes, blade grip, horizontal shaft, canopy, tail boom, and a new servo. I dont think i'll be flying with walkera servos anymore. When my heli budget allows, i'll be outfitting my helis with hitec servos.
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