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Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:57 PM
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Only if you dip the rear end into it. Really there is no room for the epoxy. Get the boom support and make some L brackets. With the support you may get away without the rear brackets but not the front.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 12:30 AM
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I see I'm batting 1000. I better go to bed.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasakro View Post
You lost me. The V400 doesn't have a tail servo.
OK, I'm awake now. I'm sure I have no idea of what I'm talking about, but It does not have a "tail rod servo holder". At least that's what the spare parts list is calling it.

I can see I'm getting ahead of myself here. Just anxious.

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Old Jan 05, 2013, 10:15 AM
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Battery Bay Demension & Source Info Wanted V400

Raising my ugly head here again. I just need to know the v400's battery bay dimensions.

I'm battery shopping and don't want to end up with something too big in size.
I read in Hobbyking battery listing feedback reviews some report the batteries are larger than shown. Perhaps the MFG changes it but Hobby king doesn't update its spec chart.

I'm thinking of getting a couple 1600mAh units. Any info on recommended and not recommended vendors would be thankfuly received.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Yes, you were right and Walkera wrong. The boom mount is on the left and tail fin mount on the right. The tabs are what break.

Stock 1200 battery is 32W x 24H x 68D. The tray is 35W x 29H x 95D. Keep in mind that I don't recall if the entire depth is clear of wires, etc. I'm only running the stock battery so far but others might know some other ones that fit by name.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 12:00 PM
BahamaHeli
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when getting batteries for the V400 there are a few things to consider, other than the size. Of course size is important, now matter what some guys say.

most 3s 2200mah and below will fit. Now if you have zip ties holding the esc or other electronics through the frame, this will cause problems with most 3s size packs. So, when re-building or modding your v400, keep the ties back near the rear. I put the 2200mah pack into the frame just to see how far back it goes, takeing into consideration the center of gravity, then planned my electronics tieing.

Another thing to think about is power system draw, and flight time. With the smaller brushless main motors and a comfortable head speed, a 1200mah could give you 5 mins + in the air. With bigger 1500 - 2200mah packs you could be flying for up to 10 mins of light flight. On the other i've got a hungry 450 sized motor and run high head speeds, so a 2200mah pack will only give me 4mins of mild 3D type flight. I could go to 5 mins but i dont like to run my packs lower than 3.7v per cell.

So when looking at batteries you have to consider what types of demands you will be putting them through. I went through many cheap 3s. Mainly because i flew them hard and long, and did not know about the balance of power required to keep my batteries happy for a long time.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Thanks, What is scary is Lasakrow mentioned a 35mm battery tray dimension.
Almost all of the batteries I see in the 15,16 & 1800mAh range have a 34 or 35mm in there some place.

Can you guys tell me the ones you use? And if you have a Devo 7 what are you using in it.

That should take care of my battery inquiries.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 01:50 PM
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Kdean gave the best answer. I used Gens Ace 1550mAh batteries just fine in mine. The best approach is to measure your battery cage and then compare with the listed dimensions of the battery before you buy. If the dimensions are not listed, then do not buy those batteries.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 02:37 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Here is a list of the different packs i've used in my v400's

BlueLipo 1800mah 20c 3s
(nice packs, cant find them anymore, good weight and flight time on stock and small brushless motors, dose not hold a charge anymore because i flew them lower than 3.6v p/c all the time)

BlueLipo 2200mah 20c 3s
(also good but cant find them anymore. Heavy for the stock and small brushless motors, but extra long flights, and more stable in wind. These also got abused in my v400, but i also abused them in my 450pros. Even after puffing they still fit in the v400 cage though)

GensAce 2200 mah 25c 3s
(they were good while they lasted, but i started doubling them up to fly my 500 and one just stoped holding charge. No puffing, but can only fly the v400 for about 20 seconds until the power is drained. Still showing full charge but putting out nothing. I no longer buy gensace)

Turnigy 2200mah 40c 3s
(these are the packs i fly today. The higher c rateing allows them to take my abuse, but if they start to puff they will not fit in the v400 cage unless i add spacers between the tray and frame. If/when they do puff i can just use them in the 450pro until they die and use new ones in the v400)
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 03:01 PM
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North Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
when getting batteries for the V400 there are a few things to consider, other than the size. Of course size is important, now matter what some guys say.

Most 3s 2200mah and below will fit. Now if you have zip ties holding the esc or other electronics through the frame, this will cause problems with most 3s size packs. So, when re-building or modding your v400, keep the ties back near the rear. I put the 2200mah pack into the frame just to see how far back it goes, taking into consideration the center of gravity, then planned my electronics tieing.

Another thing to think about is power system draw, and flight time. With the smaller brush-less main motors and a comfortable head speed, a 1200mah could give you 5 mins + in the air. With bigger 1500 - 2200mah packs you could be flying for up to 10 mins of light flight. On the other i've got a hungry 450 sized motor and run high head speeds, so a 2200mah pack will only give me 4mins of mild 3D type flight. I could go to 5 mins but i don't like to run my packs lower than 3.7v per cell.

So when looking at batteries you have to consider what types of demands you will be putting them through. I went through many cheap 3s. Mainly because i flew them hard and long, and did not know about the balance of power required to keep my batteries happy for a long time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navigator2011 View Post
Kdean gave the best answer. I used Gens Ace 1550mAh batteries just fine in mine. The best approach is to measure your battery cage and then compare with the listed dimensions of the battery before you buy. If the dimensions are not listed, then do not buy those batteries.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
Here is a list of the different packs i've used in my v400's

BlueLipo 1800mah 20c 3s
(nice packs, cant find them anymore, good weight and flight time on stock and small brushless motors, dose not hold a charge anymore because i flew them lower than 3.6v p/c all the time)

BlueLipo 2200mah 20c 3s
(also good but cant find them anymore. Heavy for the stock and small brushless motors, but extra long flights, and more stable in wind. These also got abused in my v400, but i also abused them in my 450pros. Even after puffing they still fit in the v400 cage though)

GensAce 2200 mah 25c 3s
(they were good while they lasted, but i started doubling them up to fly my 500 and one just stoped holding charge. No puffing, but can only fly the v400 for about 20 seconds until the power is drained. Still showing full charge but putting out nothing. I no longer buy gensace)

Turnigy 2200mah 40c 3s
(these are the packs i fly today. The higher c rateing allows them to take my abuse, but if they start to puff they will not fit in the v400 cage unless i add spacers between the tray and frame. If/when they do puff i can just use them in the 450pro until they die and use new ones in the v400)

ALL of the above helps me a bunch. Gonna check out the GensAce because the claimed dimensions are furtherest away from the 35mm mark.

Moving to the Devo 7. Decisions, Decisions, to get a pack or two or to use something like enloop.

Thanks
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:42 PM
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Wrongly post...should b in another thread...
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:54 PM
BahamaHeli
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I finaly got around to working on my superV tonight. It took me along time to decide on what to do with the nav's v400. I thought about putting an rx in it and flying it myself, or use as a trainer at the field. It seemed like such a waste of all the good work that nav put into it to take it apart, just to use as spares, but thats what i did. I took the whole thing apart, just to use one of the hitec servos. But now my superV has a spare everything and i can push it more without the fear of crashing and being down for two weeks due to a parts order.

Nav, i dont know if you knew, but the motor did not have an e-clip on the shaft, allowing the can to be pulled up until the pinion hit something. I know you did warn me about some things if i were to fly it, but i dont remember if you warned about the motor or not.

I put the hitec servo in the superV, everything lined up perfectly, and now there are no 'glitchy' servo movements. While doing a little run-up test, i found that my main shaft was bent a bit, so i replaced that. I balanced the new set of 335mm 3Dpro blades, only need a 3cm piece of scotch tape to get them perfectly balanced. I'll be takeing out tomorrow for some test flights.

I'm gunna play with the revo-mix or atsmix to get less tail wag on hard pitch pumps. I wont be happy until i get the superV to do the tricks that i can do with the 450pro. Well maybe no high speed reverse flight, but i should be able to piro flips and tic tocs with it.

Im also thinking about trying a less powerful motor. Yes, i said less powerfull. I want to get a better cycle life out of my packs, and if i could find a more effecient motor that can handle the weight of my superV and keep the head speed powerfull enough, it will take some stress off of my packs. The scorpion 2221-8 3595kv seems to be better handeling the power in my 450pro. The turboa ace is kind of over kill, but its fun to have access to all that kv. I might even try a typhoon 3500kv. My friend at the field is using one in a trex 450se and he gets 8 - 10 min flights with a good sounding head speed. He does not do 3D at all, but i'm teaching him the ways of the jedi.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:18 AM
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Hi Kdean, I did notice the motor can was moveable. Since it came that way and never gave me trouble, I wondered if it was normal for that motor. At any rate, I had no way to fix it, and it flew fine for many countless flights.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:10 AM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
Joined Dec 2010
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It is strange, i dont see any retaining ring around the shaft for an e-clip to go on to. Integrity had a problem when he lost an e-clip on a motor that caused the motor bearing to pop out of the can. He fixed it with a steel wire. But there should be some sort of indent in the shaft for a e-clip or steel ring to stay in place.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Exactly, which is why I came to think it was normal for this motor.
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