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Old May 31, 2011, 09:31 AM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
need to sub to this since i am in the middle of my own brushless conversion...quick question what are you guys using for pinions on the brushless motors? i am trying to get away with using the spare align 430xl motor i have sitting here but would need a 0.4mod pinion with a 3.17mm shaft diameter

kdean i think you said you tried a 64p pinion gear how did that end up working out for you?
There not here yet, but should be in tomorrow. I'll let you know
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Old May 31, 2011, 10:01 AM
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ok i will check tonight with my 64p stuff from my touring car. Was hoping to get my hobbypartz order in today but i will wait to see if i am going to have to order a different motor

btw what frame did you use for that 450 conversion? it looks vaguely similar to an ESKY frame
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Old May 31, 2011, 02:14 PM
BahamaHeli
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Thats not my 450 frame conversion, thats chippie, one of my youtube friends. It looks like the v450 frame to me, but i'm not sure. I'll ask him..
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Old May 31, 2011, 08:33 PM
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See, I jinxed myself! This morning I was running new 2200 pack from hk, and my solder joint released. Luckily, I was only 2' off the grass, but the main rotor sure turned the boom into a pretzel. I also found out what it took to finaly break my modded tail motor holder . Luckily for me, I had spares of the broken parts , so off goes the order for restock! I was thinking of using the fibre tape/epoxy trick I used on the last tail, just to save myself some repairs later I think I'll take pics this time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchie View Post
I don't know enough about helis to know the tech stuff, tho I imagine the 450 motor will go in, but will still need a signal converter to make the bl motor work. The only parts I've ever replaced are the tail rotor and motor (burns out), tail motor holder (easy to permanently fix) I've bent the boom,(bent it back and covered with black straw) When I purchased this heli, it already had rtf brushless conversion and metal servos. I've never bent a feathering shaft, or anything else on the head. (I've probably been lucky, but I have a spare head anyways) This is a great beginner's copter.... I know, I'm a beginner
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:20 PM
BahamaHeli
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OK now what?

Dear wasp,

Im working on the bypassing of the stock esc, or just putting the main motor sig conv direct to the rx.

Is this thing the resistor? And if it is can i just solder it onto the old power check plug? Does the polarity make a difference? Please help, i dont wanna mess this up...
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
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Originally Posted by kdean View Post
could you get the main motor to work without the stock esc? Details, details...
Did the converter work with the main motor? If that worked, plug a smaller detached motor onto that set of ESC and converter. Then move the set to the rudder port and see if it works.

The regular servo and ESC operates on a PWM of 1 to 2 ms pulse width and that repeats every 20ms.

IIf I remember correctly. the output from the 2614V throttle is a PWM of 0 to 1ms and repeats every 1ms. The output from the 2614V rudder is a PWM of 0 to 0.5ms and it repeats every 0.5ms.

A regular servo/ESC would not work properly as:

1. the 2614V signal is always out of the 1 to 2 ms pulse width range.

2. Depending on the implementation, the cycle time may be too fast for some ESCs and most servos will go nuts at that cycle time.

3. It would be DC at both ends of the range. If the ESC/servo is looking for pulse edges, there would be none at times. (Remember the 86% limits)

Hence we always need signal converters.

Most of the ESCs I have are AVR based. Theoretically we may be able to reprogram them directly without using a signal converter. However I haven't figured out how to drive a BL motor yet. Have to read more about it.

If you are thinking about selling signal conversion, you should be reprograming the ESCs. That would be zero material cost.

Sorry I found one of my old computer corrupted when I tried to update it after 3 years of idling.

I am actually backing it up now while I am typing this . I'll give it an new kernel and hopefully it gets well soon.
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
Dear wasp,

Im working on the bypassing of the stock esc, or just putting the main motor sig conv direct to the rx.

Is this thing the resistor? And if it is can i just solder it onto the old power check plug? Does the polarity make a difference? Please help, i dont wanna mess this up...
If you mean the big round thing, it is a capacitor. I cannot see the rest it is too dark.

The old power check plug does not have the middle connector. Then you need to solder one end of the resistor to the middle pin or another plug. The red wire on the power check plug is the signal wire.
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:48 PM
BahamaHeli
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What about the black and red wires coming from the convertor? Which one is signal and where should the other one go?
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:48 PM
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If you can follow the original power check connection inside the fried ESC you probably would find some resistors. However if they are SMD, they may be difficult to extract.

If you cannot find any resistor, what you can do is you still use your stock ESC in doing your test.

Connect the stock ESC to the RX via the power check connector only, and nothing else, you still need the battery. It would keep the RX happy.

Then plug your converter directly into the throttle or rudder port to do the test. I suppose using a smaller and detached motor would be safer.

Good luck.
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:49 PM
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hey kdean the 64p meshes pretty well with the stock spur guess i will go ahead and order a pinion along with my ESC
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kdean View Post
What about the black and red wires coming from the convertor? Which one is signal and where should the other one go?
I don't have any RTF converter, but my guess, black is the ground and red takes the signal. If you have a multimeter, you can confirm that by checking if the black has zero resistance to the ground lead on the other side.

Then you need something to feed the RX with 5V since your converter is 2 wired and not 3.
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Old May 31, 2011, 09:59 PM
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Or you can make use of your stock ESC if you don't want to rewire yet. Say keep the stock ESC connection (throttle plug with 3 wires) on the rudder port to feed the RX while testing the throttle and vice versa.
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Old May 31, 2011, 10:23 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Just tried it, red to signal, black to ground, pluged into rudder port, with main motor plug supplying 5v. nothing.... The sig conv is not getting any signal when i move rudder and throttle stick. Any ideas?
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Last edited by kdean; May 31, 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old May 31, 2011, 10:31 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Just tried it the other way, with main in rudder and sig conv into main, and still nothing. It looks like we're stuck with the stock esc, unless we change rx....
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Old May 31, 2011, 10:57 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Just tested sig conv through stock esc rudder out and works fine. I have 2 other sig convtrs comming, (not from rtf), one is a "high speed chip" and maybe that will work straight from the rx. Until then, im shopping around for at least one 4F200 rx. Im really starting to hate this stock esc just hanging around.
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