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Old May 09, 2011, 05:02 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vienquach View Post
The 2801 Rx does not work with the 2603. Could someone please confirm this?
Is there any Walkera Rx that we could purchase separately that work with 2603 radio?

Vien
the rx has to have the same or less channels as the tx for them to work. An 6ch tx can not control a 8ch rx, but an 8ch tx can control a 8ch - 6ch - 4ch rx

maybe not

Apparently, the 2806rx, that comes with the 1#A can bind with the 2603. Wow hobbies, parts for 1#A. $47
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Old May 09, 2011, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
the rx has to have the same or less channels as the tx for them to work. An 6ch tx can not control a 8ch rx, but an 8ch tx can control a 8ch - 6ch - 4ch rx
Futaba 6EX could be used with the 8 channel Rx (working with CH1 - 6). Just an example.

I am looking for good receivers that work with the 2603 for ~$35.00 or less since my Hitec Aurora 9 could use Optima 6 receivers. They are $40.00 each and works really well.

Thank guys

Vien
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Old May 09, 2011, 09:26 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vienquach View Post
Futaba 6EX could be used with the 8 channel Rx (working with CH1 - 6). Just an example.

I am looking for good receivers that work with the 2603 for ~$35.00 or less since my Hitec Aurora 9 could use Optima 6 receivers. They are $40.00 each and works really well.

Thank guys

Vien
yeah, just ignore that first part...

I looked into it and like i said, the 2806rx can work with the 2603tx.
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Old May 09, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Seattle, WA
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Hey guys question for anyone replaced servos on my 400 because of crash i cant seem to get the arms adjusted the front arm bottoms out and hits the wires especialy in stunt mode and if i raise all the arms one notch the rears top out and change pitch at full forward and back especialy in stunt,no servo trim to adjust on 2603 im a newb anyideas would be apreciated THANX.Oh the servos are stock.
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Old May 09, 2011, 10:11 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster324 View Post
Hey guys question for anyone replaced servos on my 400 because of crash i cant seem to get the arms adjusted the front arm bottoms out and hits the wires especialy in stunt mode and if i raise all the arms one notch the rears top out and change pitch at full forward and back especialy in stunt,no servo trim to adjust on 2603 im a newb anyideas would be apreciated THANX.Oh the servos are stock.
First off, get metal geared servos.

It sounds like you did not center your servos, with the gyro off, before putting your arms on.
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Old May 09, 2011, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kdean View Post
First off, get metal geared servos.

It sounds like you did not center your servos, with the gyro off, before putting your arms on.
How do you turn the gyro off.
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Last edited by crashmaster324; May 09, 2011 at 10:17 PM. Reason: oops
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Old May 09, 2011, 11:44 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
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Originally Posted by crashmaster324 View Post
How do you turn the gyro off.
I'll try to walk you through the whole process.

First, unplug your main and tail motor from the esc.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Plug in the battery and bind with your tx.

Put your throttle stick to 50%, mid stick, half way up. Center your trims if you added any.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

After you have your servo arms as close to 90 as you can, check to make sure yout swash is level. If not adjust the links between the servos and swash to get it level. If your using the stock servos, arms, and ball links, it should be level.

(the rest of this info is to properly set up your system, which may not have been done at the factory)

Getting your set up right is very important, yet offten overlooked by eager begginers, resulting in bad things...

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode. (the stock blade pitch setting are in the manual)

When your servos are centered, the swash should be at the half way point between the stabalizer and the collar at top of the frame. The horizontal link on your stabalizer should be flat. You should then adjust your plt, making sure the servo arms do not travel too far up or down. Then take your blades off, and plug the main motor only in, too check if the swash and stabalizer arms are hitting at full throttle and full cyclic. I like to make sure i get good cyclic movement at both 0% and 100% throttle. If there is no binding, rubbing, or hitting, unplug your motor and then check and set your pitches again.

I know it sounds like alot of fun, but you will be able to fly knowing that your set up will not cause a fatal crash.
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Last edited by kdean; May 10, 2011 at 12:14 AM.
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Old May 10, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Thank you kdean












Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
I'll try to walk you through the whole process.

First, unplug your main and tail motor from the esc.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Plug in the battery and bind with your tx.

Put your throttle stick to 50%, mid stick, half way up. Center your trims if you added any.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode.
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Old May 10, 2011, 12:33 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Santa Margarita
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Thank you for this Kdean. Very helpful info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
I'll try to walk you through the whole process.

First, unplug your main and tail motor from the esc.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Plug in the battery and bind with your tx.

Put your throttle stick to 50%, mid stick, half way up. Center your trims if you added any.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

After you have your servo arms as close to 90 as you can, check to make sure yout swash is level. If not adjust the links between the servos and swash to get it level. If your using the stock servos, arms, and ball links, it should be level.

(the rest of this info is to properly set up your system, which may not have been done at the factory)

Getting your set up right is very important, yet offten overlooked by eager begginers, resulting in bad things...

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode. (the stock blade pitch setting are in the manual)

When your servos are centered, the swash should be at the half way point between the stabalizer and the collar at top of the frame. The horizontal link on your stabalizer should be flat. You should then adjust your plt, making sure the servo arms do not travel too far up or down. Then take your blades off, and plug the main motor only in, too check if the swash and stabalizer arms are hitting at full throttle and full cyclic. I like to make sure i get good cyclic movement at both 0% and 100% throttle. If there is no binding, rubbing, or hitting, unplug your motor and then check and set your pitches again.

I know it sounds like alot of fun, but you will be able to fly knowing that your set up will not cause a fatal crash.
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Old May 10, 2011, 05:59 PM
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3D Flying -- Main Motor Power Question

I have the brushless RTF-HELI kit on this heli and I'm flying a lot of 3D. I am losing a lot of head speed on hard throttle moves (stunt mode, high rates). Is there any reason to believe the brushless motor in the kit is undersized for hard 3D flying? I am using stock blades, so I don't think it is "too much blade". I want to fly inverted and hover down near ground, but the head speed just drops off too much to make me comfortable. Any thoughts?
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Old May 10, 2011, 06:07 PM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyh17 View Post
I have the brushless RTF-HELI kit on this heli and I'm flying a lot of 3D. I am losing a lot of head speed on hard throttle moves (stunt mode, high rates). Is there any reason to believe the brushless motor in the kit is undersized for hard 3D flying? I am using stock blades, so I don't think it is "too much blade". I want to fly inverted and hover down near ground, but the head speed just drops off too much to make me comfortable. Any thoughts?
I had/have this problem with my rtf brushless system as well. After 86% throttle, the power drops. Wasp had the technical description of whats really happening. I just set 85% as my max throttle level on my tx. I think, using the rtf set up as a template, we need to try some bigger esc's and motors if you want real 3D head speed. Just remember to loctite.
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Old May 10, 2011, 08:40 PM
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Seattle, WA
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkalani View Post
Thank you for this Kdean. Very helpful info.
Yeah thanks for trying but that sw on the rx switches between what they call normal flight or balance flight mode to turn the gyro off looks to be in the tx go to rudmix gyro in the tx and turn v1 knob to - until light on rx goes off if that is not correct sorry,but thats what i got out of the manual today after reading it 10 times.
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Old May 11, 2011, 06:17 AM
BahamaHeli
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The Bahamas
Joined Dec 2010
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"Normal" meaning no gyro - "Balance" meaning gyro on. or
"Adjust" meaning no gyro to make adjustments - "Work" meaning gyro working.

Turning the gyro off/on with the tx is the hard way, I was trying to keep it simple for you. Both ways will turn off gyro, just remember to turn it on after you've done your set-up. With the switch, you can see right away the status of your gyro and not have to flip through the tx settings. Alot of guys make the mistake of trying to fly after making adjustments and forget to turn the gyro back to the on or work position.

Good luck,
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Last edited by kdean; May 11, 2011 at 08:23 AM.
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Old May 11, 2011, 09:46 AM
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Seattle, WA
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdean View Post
"Normal" meaning no gyro - "Balance" meaning gyro on. or
"Adjust" meaning no gyro to make adjustments - "Work" meaning gyro working.

Turning the gyro off/on with the tx is the hard way, I was trying to keep it simple for you. Both ways will turn off gyro, just remember to turn it on after you've done your set-up. With the switch, you can see right away the status of your gyro and not have to flip through the tx settings. Alot of guys make the mistake of trying to fly after making adjustments and forget to turn the gyro back to the on or work position.

Good luck,



Thanx for explaining,has anyone tried flying on sw set to wk versus adj.
What do u think gyro should be set at?Can anyone tell me where a vid of adjusting blade pitch whould be or how to do it. THANX
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