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Old May 05, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vienquach View Post
Althought I haven't got one yet , the V400 is a very fun heli to fly and also very stable. Everything for $150 ... cant beat that.
If buying more than one, will we end up having multiple 2603 radios?
Vien
Yes, unfortunately they do not come without radios. You could sell the extra one for about $25 buck on Ebay. As for the low cost, once the servos are upgraded, it is a very good machine. Heck, I paid over $250 a few years back for a 4ch fp Sabre that I don't think I ever flew completely through it's anemic battery pack. I almost trashed it last year, but then ran across websites dedicated to making it into a very good heli. That is a project for sometime in the future. Honestly, I was able to hover both my V400's right out of their respective boxes with very little trim needed. With the Sabre and it's stupid flybar, it was an exercise in futility.

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Old May 05, 2011, 08:42 PM
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"stupid flybar" ... I like that lolz

Vien
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Old May 05, 2011, 08:43 PM
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What is the Amp rating of the stock brushed ESC?

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Old May 05, 2011, 11:43 PM
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The amperage is not stated on the V400's ESC, but I have ESCs that are the same size, but thinner that I run larger bl motors with and they are rated at 18 amps. Wasp09 surely has the answer, he is the electronics guru on this site.

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Old May 05, 2011, 11:44 PM
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"stupid flybar" ... I like that lolz

Vien
Yeah, sometimes I crack myself up.

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Old May 06, 2011, 09:14 AM
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I have no idea what the rating of the stock brushed "ESC" is.

If you really want to know, check what kind of power MOSFETs it uses inside and we may try to figure out their maximum rating, but the functional one would still be dependent on cooling.

Someone may already have a fried open unit to look at.

As long as it is good enough to handle the stock brushed motors, I don't really need to know much more. I don't think it has a brain to make it more interesting.
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Old May 06, 2011, 10:05 AM
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(Another) Bonehead Moment!

Speaking of the stock ESC, I got a good one for you. Last night it quit raining for 30min. The sun was out. No wind. Just before time for dinner. I run into my office and grabbed the Tx. Got a fresh pack out and sat down to plug it into my heli. I was salivating... (You know the feeling...)

I started trying to plug in the battery to banana's into the ESC banana's... Won't go... push a little harder... POP...ozone whiff... crap...

Yep, I had the dang plug reversed... and fried the ESC (or so I thought).

Later that night, I unzipped all the electronics and freed up the ESC... I cut off the outer shrink wrap... pop off the heat sinks... There is a tiny little round, flat "fuse" made of plastic on one side and aluminum on the other. It was pulled away from one terminal (kind of folded over in half). I pulled it off, stretched it back out to be circular again, and stuck it back down to the circuit board. Voila! The ESC works again like a charm!

Now, I just have to put the ESC back together and find some other sort of shrink wrap to go over the shrink wrap I had to cut off. (Any suggestions?) Oh, and WASP, I can look at any of the components on the ESC that may be of interest to you. Just let me know and I'll be glad to do so.

Bottom line? Never get so excited to fly that you force a square peg into a round hole.
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Old May 06, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyh17 View Post
Speaking of the stock ESC, I got a good one for you. Last night it quit raining for 30min. The sun was out. No wind. Just before time for dinner. I run into my office and grabbed the Tx. Got a fresh pack out and sat down to plug it into my heli. I was salivating... (You know the feeling...)

I started trying to plug in the battery to banana's into the ESC banana's... Won't go... push a little harder... POP...ozone whiff... crap...

Yep, I had the dang plug reversed... and fried the ESC (or so I thought).

Later that night, I unzipped all the electronics and freed up the ESC... I cut off the outer shrink wrap... pop off the heat sinks... There is a tiny little round, flat "fuse" made of plastic on one side and aluminum on the other. It was pulled away from one terminal (kind of folded over in half). I pulled it off, stretched it back out to be circular again, and stuck it back down to the circuit board. Voila! The ESC works again like a charm!

Now, I just have to put the ESC back together and find some other sort of shrink wrap to go over the shrink wrap I had to cut off. (Any suggestions?) Oh, and WASP, I can look at any of the components on the ESC that may be of interest to you. Just let me know and I'll be glad to do so.

Bottom line? Never get so excited to fly that you force a square peg into a round hole.
Yeah, I have NEVER done that .

Glad you found a way to fix it. What I do to keep this from happening is my battery connector banana plug is one unit (as it comes in) and the ESC I cut the banana plug in half to separate the male and female and then plug in one at a time and that keeps me from force plugging the connector in the wrong polarity. When I install the lipo, I always plug in on side, male or female, it does not matter, then when I set the heli on the ground, on goes the transmitter and then I plug in the opposite plug.

SpadCat
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Old May 06, 2011, 05:15 PM
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Yeah, I have NEVER done that .

Glad you found a way to fix it. What I do to keep this from happening is my battery connector banana plug is one unit (as it comes in) and the ESC I cut the banana plug in half to separate the male and female and then plug in one at a time and that keeps me from force plugging the connector in the wrong polarity. When I install the lipo, I always plug in on side, male or female, it does not matter, then when I set the heli on the ground, on goes the transmitter and then I plug in the opposite plug.

SpadCat
I am using T's. It is difficult to have them plugged together inverted.
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Old May 06, 2011, 06:37 PM
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I am using T's. It is difficult to have them plugged together inverted.
Since most my larger fixed wing foamies use the 4.0 banana connectors, that is what I converted the V400 3.5's to. I have lots of Lipos in the 1200 to 2200 range that already had the 4.0 bananas, might as well take advantage of them. I am really not a fan of them, but they work ok if handled properly.

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Old May 06, 2011, 08:25 PM
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4.0mm banana connectors work best for me. Last much longer than the 3.5s and very easy to solder. Color coded help between +/- or you could use male/female pair on the battery and the opposite on the ESC.
I just dont like dean plugs. All my planes from 400W to 4000W ... all bananas.

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Old May 06, 2011, 09:18 PM
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4.0mm banana connectors work best for me. Last much longer than the 3.5s and very easy to solder. Color coded help between +/- or you could use male/female pair on the battery and the opposite on the ESC.
I just dont like dean plugs. All my planes from 400W to 4000W ... all bananas.

Vien

I have a bunch of Dean's laying around from our Zagi days. I hated them until I found the trick of soldering them while the male and female are connected. Made it so that one could plug and unplug them much easier.

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Old May 06, 2011, 09:32 PM
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I just dont trust them on my high power planes, so all bananas --> easier to deal with.

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Old May 06, 2011, 09:46 PM
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I think I'll use a Sharpie and color the neg side black. Should be simple enough.

I found some large diameter shrink tube to fit back on the ESC. Worked like a charm. Cut off the old Walkera label and double-sided it back onto the new shrink tube. Almost looks like I wasn't a bonehead now!

Got my brushless tail motor(s) in today. The ESC is on back order! Oh well, it'll give me more time to design and print a modified tail assembly to mount the brushless motor. I am excited to give this a try. I went out and got a nice multimeter. It will handle 200A DC! I was shocked to read the box! I should be able to completely reverse engineer just about any brushed motor being used in the smaller heli market.
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Old May 06, 2011, 09:50 PM
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I also use color heat shrink. (red vs. black, etc)

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