|Jan 13, 2011, 03:04 PM|
So here goes...
The Frog Redwing has to be one of the cutest models in the Frog stable. The first time I saw one was hanging up in Geoff Stubbs Model Shop and it immediately caught my eye. To add to that, my local club, the PMFC (www.peterboroughmfc.org) run the Frog Senior Series competition at the Peterborough Flying Aces each summer. So it had to be done!
First step is to visit Mike Stuart's House of Frog site www.houseoffrog.co.uk/senior_plans.htm where you can download the plans and parts sheet.
Printing the plan from pdf to A4 couldn't be easier. Printing the plan on A4 means you have to join up and tape three sheets together.
There are no instructions as such but everything is more or less self explanatory, plus there are some good tips on Mike's site.
The one thing I have done, is draw and cut out a dihedral template (9 degrees) for the inner ribs - not strictly neccessary but I think it'll help me be neat.
EDIT: I have subsequently found that the wing plan is slightly assymetrical - see post 18 for details!
|Jan 13, 2011, 04:16 PM|
A few people have built this design as a stick model. There's certainly scope for reducing weight in the design (it's pretty chunky) but...
I'll be building as per the plan for the PFA Senior Series. The only real way to get good flight times is to select really light wood...
Which I haven't got! But I'm wanting a nice robust outdoor model so I don't mind so much. In fact, if its under 30g I'll be chuffed!
The cutting of parts has begun - in fact I've done all the fuselage bits in an hour or two. My method is pritt-sticking the parts sheet to the wood and whipping the paper off again before it dries. The glue adhere's very little and any that does can be removed with fine sandpaper.
Using Pete Money's parts sheet (on Mike's site) has proved excellent - the bits fit together like a laser cut kit!
Just the ribs and wing tips to go!
|Jan 13, 2011, 05:33 PM|
The ribs are finished - there are only 8, so not as taxing as some designs.
My method of finishing them is to stick a small section of spar through all eight for alignment and then sand them smooth - you do need to make sure they stay square, so sometimes taping them together helps.
I just need to strip some wood for spars and the leading and trailing edges and then I have a complete 'kit'.
|Jan 14, 2011, 07:37 AM|
Well all the bits (without trimming spars etc) come to 10g.
The ribs are 1/16" and the LE and spars are 3/32" x 3/16". As I said: pretty chunky for an 18" span model!
Feels like chopping firewood after my last peanut size build where eveything was 1/32 or 1/20! But it does make for a nice, simple model.
Attached is a file for the root rib dihedral template of 9 degrees - if anyone wants to use it.
|Jan 14, 2011, 08:02 AM|
Sometimes though, I feel following the original design is a challenge in itself....maybe an act of curiousity, and/or a kind of re-experience of "the ol´kit models", see what they were like......rewarding in its own way...
|Jan 14, 2011, 08:21 AM|
Yeah - it's nice to not be obsessing about weight!
I'm not old enough to be genuinely nostalgic but I grew up with tales of the models my dad built in the early 50's (including a Frog Wasp) so it's enjoyable to have the sense of history with that comes with these designs.
The plans are free and the materials cost only a few quid. It's a really easy build: providing you are reasonably accurate the pieces fit together extremely well.
|Jan 14, 2011, 08:38 AM|
Some More Inspiration
Here are a few more pics of a Redwing that has been modified to break down and pack away.
Unfortunately I can't remember where the pictures came from or I would give a credit. I believe the gentlemen made the model for his granddaughter...
The in flight photos were also an inspiration for this build!
EDIT: This model was built by rgroener for his god son - not granddaughter! It's here on SFA and well worth a look!
|Jan 14, 2011, 08:42 AM|
I built one from our kit..needed some noseweight and 6x1/8 rubber but flew 'as well as could be expected' getting up to maybe 20' in flights of maybe 15-20 seconds.
Enjoyed it so much that a bigger rubber model is on the cards.
It IS built for strength, not duration.
If you select the wood well, it should fly as plan, but if the wood is just normal, you will need noseweight, more rubber and a bit of downthrust.
Mine flew on 8" prop.
|Jan 14, 2011, 08:57 AM|
should get you there.
|Jan 14, 2011, 09:35 AM|
Here is the full specification for those who may be interested in the design side of things or possibly (sacrilege!) putting mini RC in one.
Some one did build a 7" version which is pretty cool!
Aspect ratio: 5.68
Dihedral: 9° per panel
Weight target (Free Flight): 1oz
Wing loading: 2.5oz/ft²
Tail span: 7.1”
Tail aspect ratio: 3.63
Tail area: 14in²
Tail area as % wing area: 24.3%
Tail AC: 0.8” (20mm) aft of tail LE
Tail moment: 7.9”
Tail moment/MAC: 2.43 x MAC
Horizontal tail volume co.eff.: 0.591
Fin area: 5.5in²
Fin height: 2.9”
Fin aspect ratio: 1.5
Fin as % tail area: 39.6%
Fin as % wing area: 9.6%
Fin AC: 1.2” (30mm) forward of sternpost
Fin moment arm: 7.7”
Fin moment/MAC: 2.36 x MAC
Vertical tail volume co. eff.: 0.082
Nose moment (from thrust button): 3.6”
Nose moment/MAC: 1.12 x MAC
I compiled these figures when I was thinking of doing a double sized RC version. The areas were measured from the plan with my planimeter - probably my favourite design tool, bought on ebay, it smells of cigars and drawing offices!
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